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Ski Damage

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 

Had a hell of a good time at Pico Mtn this weekend. I was loving the narrow powdery and bumpy trails, as well as the open glades, both of which are things I never skied before. The problem was that the snow was thin in places, and my skis are showing it now. Edges are very rough and dull, and bases have a lot of new scratches.


1. I'll start with the easier question about the edges. In a few spots, I can visibly see burrs that stick out possibly half a millimeter. I've been sharpening/polishing with 200 and 400 grit diamond stones. Even before this serious damage, I found I couldn't get the edge underfoot as sharp as the edges at the tip and tail. Should I get a 100 grit stone to not destroy my 200 grit stone, or maybe even a file for big jobs like this one?


2. Have pictures for questions on the bases and top sheet, but here are a couple general questions. Should I repair some of this with a ptex candle, and how bad does damage usually have to get before having to grind my bases? I've skied 11 days on these so far.


These first two are pretty bad and are fairly deep.



This next one isn't very bad, but there's a lot of marks like this on both skis


This next one, I'm not sure how it got there, but I may have slipped with a sidewall planer (more about this in next question). It's about a millimeter wide and seems to go through the top sheet. Any problems with this?


This last one is mostly aesthetic, But how is all that stuff in the D getting rubbed off as well as some green showing through on the right?



3. I used a sidewall planer for the first time on these tonight and had some difficulties. I didn't remove very much, and it looked like I was getting right up to the metal (edge) but it's hard to tell. Is it okay to remove a tiny amount of metal? Removing at the tip and tail was also very difficult. I couldn't pull it smoothly, and part of the top sheet would also get lifted up, which I later removed with a small knife. How important is it to get close to the tip and tail.


My skis are Head Rev 80 in case it matters.

post #2 of 7

Your damage is not that severe.  You are not racing WC so don't sweat the small stuff.  Dripping candle all over will only prevent wax absorption wherever you use it as will all base repair.

If you really feel you need to repair the minor gouges it would be best to do a welded repair.  As it seems you are just learning tuning I would take them to a shop and get welded repair done there.  Minor scratches are only cosmetic and will not change the performance of your skis.

If you have some hours to kill you might want to view some of my videos.  Once at my YT channel "Sagina1999" search "tuning"

I have not made a base repair video yet, but there are many good ones on YT.  Good luck.

post #3 of 7
As a rank amateur, the base scratches don't seem like a huge deal. The divot in the lower ski in your first photo might be interesting, but only if it's pretty deep, and that's just because it's oriented a little more across the ski than along its length. If it's not underfoot I don't think I'd bother with it. Most of the edge damage is scratches, and I've been softening and smoothing these up with my Arkansas stone, occasionally with a minimal amount of work with a 600 grit diamond stone. But someone else will have to counsel you about the really roughed-up lower edge near the divot. It might not be as choppy as the picture makes it look, but if it is I'd be worried about reshaping my base bevel if I tried to sharpen that edge, in which case I'd visit a trusted shop for advice. Again, maybe not that big a deal if it's not underfoot. Hard decisions!

BTW, either way you don't want to take a regular file to case hardened edge damage; you'll need to soften it up with a diamond stone or natural stone first. I've even seen a video--I think it was Willi Wiltz--where aluminum oxide sandpaper was used to soften up a case hardened edge.
post #4 of 7
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by litterbug View Post

 If it's not underfoot I don't think I'd bother with it.

The first picture (the worst one) is about 4 inches in front of the toe piece. It's hard to judge how deep it is, but I can put my nail in it. The smaller one (second picture) is underneath where the front of the boot would end up.


Does anyone have input on the use of the sidewall planer?


 And how does one know when it's time for a stone grind?

Edited by nemesis256 - 2/10/14 at 6:31am
post #5 of 7
Originally Posted by nemesis256 View Post

 And how does one know when it's time for a stone grind?

Repost of before and after.
post #6 of 7
My Kendo's look worse then that, and ski great, there is noting to worry about on the P-tex,

To get a good edge you need to have a flat base. I use my Skivisions base flattener before I wax.

I mainly use only a 100 grit moonflex for my daily touch up after skiing.

I'm guessing you have not flattened your bases so your edge angle is not true.

The ends of the ski where they curve, is a bit hard to get the sidewall cutter to cut cleanly. but take short cuts if you have to. You don't need to remove alot of material for the stone or file to cut the metal.

Once you get your bases flat enough with a ski visions tool, you never get them perfect or need them perfect, use a small piece of panzar file clamped to your edge guide with a moonflex behind it to hold it at a good angle and pull it down the edge either way, the metal doesn't care, once or twice then use the moonflex a few times up/down the edge to clean it up. You do use the 50/50 mix to lube the stone right ?

My 3 y/o Kendos have never been to shop and ski great, same edge hold as new ones, I have over 90 days on them.
post #7 of 7
I've found a few sidewall planning videos on YouTube. Check out the ones by Slidewright and Willi Wiltz.

Which sidewall planer do you have? It's important to try to take off only a thin strip of material at a time, but I had a very hard time figuring out what the adjustment knobs did, and the videos and suggestions here don't explain that well. If nothing else, I'd suggest practicing on a trash ski from the thrift store, rather than having to fix chatter marks and gouges with the liberal use of sandpaper as I have.

I also think that this combo might be easier to handle than a sidewall planer, though it won't peel off that nice strip of sidewall material the way a planer does.
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