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Scott "The Ski" tuning question

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 

Gang,

 

I was looking on Scott's website and it says that they send their skis out with a .5 - .8 base bevel.  I have a 185cm Scott "The Ski" and need to know what the factory tune on it is so I can maintain it.  Thanks in advance to anyone that can provide this information.


Bill

post #2 of 9

From the evo site

 

Scott The Ski A Skis 2013

Despite it's name, the Scott The Ski A Ski is more than just a ski. The Elliptical Sandwich Sidewall Construction provides a stable ride in all kinds of snow conditions and offers a strong yet fun flex to control your turns how you want them. Scott wants to ensure that you get out on these planks as soon as possible, so they gave them a factory finish with pre-tuned edges and a micro structured CNC stone grind, allowing you to take them out of the box, attach some bindings, and head to the nearest snow-covered hill. The Pro-Tip Rocker shape of these skis also offers more consistent flex and a nice lead to your ride down the mountain. When people ask you about the Scott The Ski A Skis, you may tell them that they're skis, but we both know they are so much more.

Rocker Type
Pro-Tip Rocker - Features a combination of progressive shape and increased tip heigh and radius. Scott's Pro-Tip produces a more consistent ski flex and predictable turns.
Sidecut
3Dimension Sidecut - 3Dimension combines 2 radii with a central flat line under foot. The tip and tail radii allow for easy turn initiation while the flat line provides stability, power and precision. Designed in conjunction with Scott's Freeski Team Athletes, 3Dimension Sidecut provides a level of versatility, balance and power under foot that meets the demands of the world's best skiers.
Variable Turning Radius - 14m/18m/11m on 155, 15m/19m/12m on 165, 16m/20m/13m on 175, 18m/23m/15m on 185
Core
Full Ski Length Wood Core - The full-length, wood core produces a more consistent ski flex and creates a homogeneous transition between middle part and rockered tip and tail.
Laminates
Factory Finish - Scott skis come direct from the factory "ready to ski" with Scott factory finish. Every factory finished ski leaves the factory with side edges ground at 89° and base edges ground between 0.5° and 0.8° for exceptional performance. The base is finished with a micro structured CNC stone grind so you can mount your skis and hit the hill, no tuning required.
Sidewalls
Sandwich Sidewall Construction Laminate Elliptic - Scott’s Elliptical Sandwich construction offers exceptional torsional stiffness while providing a consistent and confident flex, delivering precise edge control.
Edges
Pre Track - When developing Pre-Track, Scott designed skis with wide tips and/or slightly turned up tails. With Pre-Track, Scott skis employ a smaller effective edge for short radius turns on groomed slopes and a longer effective edge when making bigger turns or skiing off-piste. The result is a more precise, stable, reliable and versatile ski.
Binding Compatibility
We recommend a brake width equal to or at most 15 mm wider than the ski waist width.

Specs

  • Terrain: All-Mountain
    All-Mountain
    All-mountain skis are designed to handle anything you throw at them including powder, ice, groomers, steeps, heavy snow, and everything in between, but they aren’t necessarily a master of any one terrain. If you’re only going to own one ski to do it all, this is what you want. All-mountain skis generally have what we call mid-fat waists that range from 80-110 mm.
post #3 of 9

Should go at least 2 degrees on the side. (88 deg). Esp. at Sugarloaf.

Hard to tell from the description about the base bevel. 0.5 -0.8 degrees could be a range or more probably it's a "radial" tune. 0.8 degree base bevel tip and tail and 0.5 deg in the middle.

post #4 of 9
Thread Starter 

Jeesh.  I have NO idea how to do a radial tune but I need a definitive answer so I don't screw the skis up when I go to tune them. 


Bill

post #5 of 9

Don't touch the base bevel. Just do the sides.

 

Eventually you can take it somewhere or do the base at a consistent say 0.7 or 1 degree.

Only the newest automatic stone grinders can do the radial. Or, one does it flat, 0 deg, and bevels the base by hand.

Where do CVA kids get their race skis stone ground? That's where you should take it when needed. You probably won't even need it this year, but maybe.

 

Check these vids out for some basics.

Again, don't do the base until you acquire some skils at this.

 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Start Haus View Post
 

We're releasing our World Cup Ski Tuning DVD, chapter by chapter, on our Youtube channel here: http://www.youtube.com/user/thestarthaus/videos?view=46&shelf_id=4&tag_id=UCXwFAc5FAhD5K1dRV3Zuh6g.3.ski-tuning&sort=dd

 

Let us know here if you have any questions or want any clarifications, hope this helps!

 

post #6 of 9
Thread Starter 

What is the advantage of a radial bevel?  I tune my own skis but have NO idea how to setup different bevels.  Thanks.


Bill

post #7 of 9

From the Montana website

 

Utilizing the gradually changing geometry of an ellipse, Radial Tuning bevels skis and snowboards more in the wider shovel and tail areas and less in the narrow waist area underfoot. The effect is easier turn initiation and completion as well as solid secure edging throughout the entire turn, regardless of speed and snow conditions. Also thanks to Radial Tuning the danger of falling is reduced because the pilot can even abruptly interrupt a full speed turn anytime without risking a dangerous fall because the edges are still gripping on the snow.
 

 

post #8 of 9
Yeah they make it sound like it's the next coming. One should try it. You do feel the small bevel underfoot without the total commitment of a small bevel.
I must say I did not drop to my knees and praise the heavens.
One can do it manually, not that big a deal but lot more work. Having a machine do it probably starts at 300k $ .
post #9 of 9

To reinforce what Tog said, the only time the base edges should be tuned is after the bases have been ground flat. If you file or stone the edges in between base flattening you will gradually increase the distance between the edge and the snow and make it gradually harder to engage the edges, plus when you do have the bases flattened they will have to remove a lot of base material to flatten the bases down to the edges.

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