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Scratched my base attempting to sharpen base edge

post #1 of 17
Thread Starter 

It doesn't look horrible, but I slightly scratched the base of one of my skis using a 200 grit diamond stone, attempting to remove a rough edge. I can't reverse anything at this point, so my question is more about sharpening the base edge. Some people recommend to not touch it at all, but if so, how do you remove any burrs on the base edge? Just keep sharpening/polishing the side edge in the affected area until it feels sharp? Or should I get a base edge guide?

 

The only two tools I currently have for sharpening are 200 and 400 grit diamond stones. I don't care about changing edge angle at this point.

post #2 of 17
Use a guide, but only polish the base edge if there's a ding. Enough to remove anything sticking out.
post #3 of 17

I thought it's fine to freehand the burr or work hardened areas? 

post #4 of 17
I wouldn't. But some would. Like everything to do with tuning.
post #5 of 17

I freehand my recreational skis to remove the 'outie' portion of burrs on my base edges. To smooth out the 'innies' I'll use a gummi. In both cases I don't let the tool go beyond the edge so I don't mess up the bases.

 

With race skis I'll use a guide to hold the stone. Freehand with the gummi.

 

Freehand or guide, it really comes down to your confidence in getting the job done without adding insult to injury and how much it matters to the ski. Rec skis, low consequence if goofed up. Race skis, pricey tune required to fix and possibly numerous cycles of wax, scrape, brush, ski.

post #6 of 17
"I slightly scratched the base of one of my skis"

Your saying this is in the P-tex ? It really doesn't matter, you do not need perfect bases. You should see my skis. If it's in the metal, I'll bet you'll never feel it skiing.

I always use a steel edge guide and clamp to hold the diamond stone or any file.

I never use a gummi stone.

Only use a file in the 1* base guide to knock off any high spots in the base edge prior to waxing, thats so the nick doesn't scratch the iron.

I use a ski vision base flattening tools before I wax.

You do use the 50/50 sauce and the diamond stones right ?
post #7 of 17

I only work on  the side edges after inital set and polish of base edge. 

 

Chances are very good you will do more harm than good.

 

If you feel you have to smooth base edge. very lightly with a file guide.  small scratches in p-tex particulalry iof they are longitudinal are a non-issue. You can also brush out p-tex with a stiff steel or brass brush or Roto-brush.

post #8 of 17

Don't worry too much about it.  Wax will probably fill in any tiny dings or scrapes that happen while you are getting rid of the edge dings and hanging burs.  A base grind will smooth it out fine when it's finally time to grind.

post #9 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomicman View Post
 

I only work on  the side edges after inital set and polish of base edge. 

 

Chances are very good you will do more harm than good.

 

 

 

+1

post #10 of 17

If I have a bad ding in my base edge that I can feel while skiing (an extra grab or drag), I work just that area lightly to make the rough area more smooth usually just a half inch or so. I use the SVST final cut base edge tool.  I have not subsequently noticed it skiing and racing. If I have a ding I don't notice skiing to the base edge, I don't worry about it.

post #11 of 17

If you're going at your base edges free hand, tape your bases. 

post #12 of 17

The variety of replies is enlightening. Knowing most of these folks from the site, I understand where they are coming from and why they suggest what they do.

 

Take my remarks regarding recreational vs race for instance. My definition of recreational is probably different than most everyone else's. I suspect that those that freehand repair their base edges are like me. I have gouges in the p-tex and nicks on the edges. I am looking for a smoothish base and edges that won't grab the snow or gloves during use. I don't stone my base edges for perfection, just for improved performance.

 

I freehand my edges in the gondola to and from skiing. Kind of like that Ford commercial where the guy is cleaving a diamond.

 

Not! :)

post #13 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by nemesis256 View Post
 

It doesn't look horrible, but I slightly scratched the base of one of my skis using a 200 grit diamond stone, attempting to remove a rough edge. I can't reverse anything at this point, so my question is more about sharpening the base edge. Some people recommend to not touch it at all, but if so, how do you remove any burrs on the base edge? Just keep sharpening/polishing the side edge in the affected area until it feels sharp? Or should I get a base edge guide?

 

The only two tools I currently have for sharpening are 200 and 400 grit diamond stones. I don't care about changing edge angle at this point.


A small scratch is nothing to even worry about.  Look at it as added structure.  People get way to worried about small scratches. 

 

To deburr your base edge use the diamond stones.  Rub just enough to feel it smooth out.  Don't sweat the small stuff.

 

post #14 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by MastersRacer View Post

Freehand or guide, it really comes down to your confidence in getting the job done without adding insult to injury and how much it matters to the ski.
I decided to stick to edge guides wherever I can after completely rounding the base edge of my trash thrift-store skis. At some point I'll feel more comfortable working freehand with such small angles (and have flat bases on my Geishas). It's more perfectionism than performance that makes me fuss about things, though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomicman View Post

You can also brush out p-tex with a stiff steel or brass brush or Roto-brush.
I'll testify to that. Enthusiastic hand-brushing with brass has cured scuffs and scratches and even the filings I pressed into my base the one time I failed to wipe the skis often enough. redface.gif
post #15 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by nemesis256 View Post
 

 Some people recommend to not touch it at all, but if so, how do you remove any burrs on the base edge? Just keep sharpening/polishing the side edge in the affected area until it feels sharp? Or should I get a base edge guide?

 

The reason people recommend to not sharpen your base edges: what actually matters is not the angle per se but the distance between the edge and the snow when the ski is flat. The greater the distance the more the ski has to be put up on edge for the edge to engage. If you keep sharpening the base edge you are gradually increasing this distance so that it takes longer and longer to engage the edge when you turn. Also, when it comes time to flatten the bases and reset the edges the shop will have to remove a lot of base to get the base and edges flat.

If there are base edge burrs after stoning the side edge, it's fine to remove burrs with a freehand stone, guide and stone, or gummi--just remove the burr itself and don't touch the intact part of the edge and you should be fine.

post #16 of 17
To repeat what ^ said and I said above.

Only use a file in the 1* base guide to knock off any high spots in the base edge prior to waxing, thats so the nick doesn't scratch the iron.



You don't need to have perfect edges either, just remove as little metal as you can to knock the high spots of the nicks, side or base. The next time you touch up the edges (after every ski day) with your diamond stone that is lubed with the 50/50 mix you will remove more of the nick. After a few days it will be gone.

In most cases its not like you ever felt it skiing in the first place.

Remember the idea is to make the skis last by taking off as little metal as possible.
post #17 of 17
I don't touch the base edge unless there's a ding and metal sticking out/down, then I use a ceramic stone to freehand remove it, just lift the other end by a tiny bit.
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