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Hey Mod - This sub-forum could use a sticky FAQ

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 

No offence to any posters asking questions, but I keep reading the same questions regularly over the years.

 

The forum search tool here, isn't always efficient, or helpful either.

 

I use another forum for sled maintenance, and they have a really good FAQ - which has made it very easy for me to solve any issues with my iron.

 

Just a suggestion.

post #2 of 7

I agree with you, but since 2009 when we went to Huddler, we don't have sticky threads, but we do have forum announcements where we can link an index to good threads, tags, and articles.  If members will put together a list of FAQs or the best of tuning and maintenance threads, I think we can make a combination of articles and links that might be better than sticky threads.  For example:

 

Tuning Tip To Make Your Fat Skis Carve

30x30px-ZC-f64ed687_035_sadexecutioner.jpg
  • Created 5/12/11 by Loaf

Describe 'Tuning Tip To Make Your Fat Skis Carve' here If you really like skis with a waist of 90-120mm for almost everyday, you can make them carve groomers and hard pack like a dream by changing the side bevel. I prefer a 3 degree side bevel, and a 1 degree base bevel. What this does is allows the ski to really turn over, so you can dig in and carve, without early wash out. So, next time you get a basic tune on those fattys, ask the tech for a 3 degree side bevel, (a 1 degree base bevel is standard) any good shop can accommodate this request. ... read more

How To Hand Tune Skis

30x30px-ZC-b98192f0_JmoonshineFeb2013.jpeg
  • Created 4/19/11 by noloESA Coach

This guide will go through the process of hand tuning your existing skis. This is different from a tune that a shop will do. A shop tune is done with a series of machines. A ceramic stone will grind the base flat (putting a pattern in the base called structure, of which many combinations are available), an edging machine will put side and base bevels on the ski, and a waxing machine is usually used to wax the skis. The base grind should be done once a season, or as often as is needed (determined by how beat up the bases are), and the machine tune for the edges should... read more

Edge Tuning So Easy Even An Adult Can Do It

30x30px-ZC-b98192f0_JmoonshineFeb2013.jpeg
  • Created 1/21/10 by noloESA Coach

The following video from Alpinord of Slidewright Tools provides visual aids and another perspective on diamonds, files and edge tuning. There are a couple more bonus videos for learning how to hot wax and brush and scrape afterwards. Be sure to check out his website for more tips or give a shout if you have questions. Edge Tuning-So Easy even an Adult Can Do It Side walls need to be modified to remove the portion at the top of the edge so a diamond or stone is not obstructed from cutting or polishing the edges. Here is a video from SVST using a side wall... read more

Waterproofing Your Ski Clothing

30x30px-ZC-2221014e_stins_huddler_square.jpg
  • Created 5/20/09 by stinsPlatform Partner

The typical scenario is once you've washed or laundered your ski/snowboard pants, they are no longer water resistant. Even two coats of the spray stuff (Scotch Guard, etc.) does not seem to help.  What do you do?  Instead of simply wearing your ski clothing till your ski jackets, pants, and gloves are soiled and dirty and then replacing them or having two pairs of pants (one fresh pair for the snowy days and the older laundered pair for dry days), there are options to help you re-waterproof your ski gear. Keep in mind however, that there are broad two classes... read more

Storing Skis For Summer

30x30px-ZC-b98192f0_JmoonshineFeb2013.jpeg
  • Created 4/28/09 by noloESA Coach

Here's advice for cleaning and storing your skis and bindings for the summer, taken from the many threads on the topic posted here at EpicSki:   SkiRacer55: Most skis, if they're faithfully maintained, do not need the Full Monty in the spring.  Wind the tension off the bindings, clean the bases with citrus cleaner if necessary, lightly tune the side edges, then soak them with any kind of wax so that they survive the summer.     1. Clean and thoroughly dry the skis   Lostboy: Several factors promote the development of rust, like... read more

Ski Boot Liner Cleaning And Disinfecting

30x30px-ZC-b98192f0_JmoonshineFeb2013.jpeg
  • Created 4/6/09 by noloESA Coach

Now that the ski season is winding down to a close, do you notice that your ski boots smell a bit funky? If the smell is bad enough that you'd like to do something about it before storing them in your warm garage over the summer and becoming a biological hazard, here are a few suggestions from the mavens at EpicSki:   Yank them out and give them a good washing in the sink with some generic detergent and follow that with a good shot and rinse with "Febreze." Never throw them in the washing machine with your clothes, and dry them in the boiler room or with a... read more

Spring Snow Base Preparation

30x30px-ZC-9c4652b6_TA11-crop.jpg

Prepping for Sweet Corn & Crust One of life’s simple pleasures is getting out for skate skiing, touring or making turns on a warming bluebird day, with an inch or so of wet sweet corn on firm crust or solid base. Spring & summer predawn hikes on crust to harvest morning corn is right up there.   The best corn comes after a freeze of transformed, wet snow from the day before. The snow is no longer flakes or crystals, but saturated ice ‘kernels’ known as frozen corn. Depending on timing, aspect and other factors, this can start out like a coral reef, a very... read more

Waxing Light Hot Scraping

30x30px-ZC-9c4652b6_TA11-crop.jpg

Light Hot Scraping     A ‘cheat’ to include in your bag of tricks if you are in a hurry, got over zealous dripping wax while hot waxing or simply wish to reduce time, effort and mess while scraping after the wax cools and hardens, etc, is Light Hot Scraping.   After the wax cools for a minute or two, take a sharp plexi-scraper, held with even, light to moderate pressure at a 60° (+/-) angle towards you and pull down the full length of your ski or snowboard.   This should leave a relatively even,... read more

Base Repair Options

30x30px-ZC-9c4652b6_TA11-crop.jpg

Base Repair Options   Long the low tech and easy to implement method for the home tuner to make temporary base repairs has been burning and dripping Ptex candles. Common problems are the inclusion of carbon and discoloration of clear Ptex repairs, burning hands and fingers and the simple fact the repairs do not last (largely due to the wax included in the material, reducing the bonding). Typically, repairs need to be frequently repeated.   If you get a core shot (through the base material and into the core), additional steps are necessary, either by... read more

True Bars

30x30px-ZC-9c4652b6_TA11-crop.jpg

How flat (or not) are my bases? What are my base bevel angles? How straight are my scrapers, edge guides & tools?....are among the typical bits of information needed to perform and gauge quality of work and determine what work is required. Like any tool we carry, there is a range of quality levels available to meet budget, personal goals and acceptable tolerances. From basic straight metal bars to precise, finely milled, high quality case hardened steel, the DIY tuner can achieve the desired and necessary level of precision using the fundamental tool known as a true... read more

Tuning Tip To Make Your Fat Skis Carve

30x30px-ZC-f64ed687_035_sadexecutioner.jpg
  • Created 5/12/11 by Loaf

Describe 'Tuning Tip To Make Your Fat Skis Carve' here If you really like skis with a waist of 90-120mm for almost everyday, you can make them carve groomers and hard pack like a dream by changing the side bevel. I prefer a 3 degree side bevel, and a 1 degree base bevel. What this does is allows the ski to really turn over, so you can dig in and carve, without early wash out. So, next time you get a basic tune on those fattys, ask the tech for a 3 degree side bevel, (a 1 degree base bevel is standard) any good shop can accommodate this request. ... read more

How To Hand Tune Skis

30x30px-ZC-b98192f0_JmoonshineFeb2013.jpeg
  • Created 4/19/11 by noloESA Coach

This guide will go through the process of hand tuning your existing skis. This is different from a tune that a shop will do. A shop tune is done with a series of machines. A ceramic stone will grind the base flat (putting a pattern in the base called structure, of which many combinations are available), an edging machine will put side and base bevels on the ski, and a waxing machine is usually used to wax the skis. The base grind should be done once a season, or as often as is needed (determined by how beat up the bases are), and the machine tune for the edges should... read more

Edge Tuning So Easy Even An Adult Can Do It

30x30px-ZC-b98192f0_JmoonshineFeb2013.jpeg
  • Created 1/21/10 by noloESA Coach

The following video from Alpinord of Slidewright Tools provides visual aids and another perspective on diamonds, files and edge tuning. There are a couple more bonus videos for learning how to hot wax and brush and scrape afterwards. Be sure to check out his website for more tips or give a shout if you have questions. Edge Tuning-So Easy even an Adult Can Do It Side walls need to be modified to remove the portion at the top of the edge so a diamond or stone is not obstructed from cutting or polishing the edges. Here is a video from SVST using a side wall... read more

Waterproofing Your Ski Clothing

30x30px-ZC-2221014e_stins_huddler_square.jpg
  • Created 5/20/09 by stinsPlatform Partner

The typical scenario is once you've washed or laundered your ski/snowboard pants, they are no longer water resistant. Even two coats of the spray stuff (Scotch Guard, etc.) does not seem to help.  What do you do?  Instead of simply wearing your ski clothing till your ski jackets, pants, and gloves are soiled and dirty and then replacing them or having two pairs of pants (one fresh pair for the snowy days and the older laundered pair for dry days), there are options to help you re-waterproof your ski gear. Keep in mind however, that there are broad two classes... read more

Storing Skis For Summer

30x30px-ZC-b98192f0_JmoonshineFeb2013.jpeg
  • Created 4/28/09 by noloESA Coach

Here's advice for cleaning and storing your skis and bindings for the summer, taken from the many threads on the topic posted here at EpicSki:   SkiRacer55: Most skis, if they're faithfully maintained, do not need the Full Monty in the spring.  Wind the tension off the bindings, clean the bases with citrus cleaner if necessary, lightly tune the side edges, then soak them with any kind of wax so that they survive the summer.     1. Clean and thoroughly dry the skis   Lostboy: Several factors promote the development of rust, like... read more

Ski Boot Liner Cleaning And Disinfecting

30x30px-ZC-b98192f0_JmoonshineFeb2013.jpeg
  • Created 4/6/09 by noloESA Coach

Now that the ski season is winding down to a close, do you notice that your ski boots smell a bit funky? If the smell is bad enough that you'd like to do something about it before storing them in your warm garage over the summer and becoming a biological hazard, here are a few suggestions from the mavens at EpicSki:   Yank them out and give them a good washing in the sink with some generic detergent and follow that with a good shot and rinse with "Febreze." Never throw them in the washing machine with your clothes, and dry them in the boiler room or with a... read more

Spring Snow Base Preparation

30x30px-ZC-9c4652b6_TA11-crop.jpg

Prepping for Sweet Corn & Crust One of life’s simple pleasures is getting out for skate skiing, touring or making turns on a warming bluebird day, with an inch or so of wet sweet corn on firm crust or solid base. Spring & summer predawn hikes on crust to harvest morning corn is right up there.   The best corn comes after a freeze of transformed, wet snow from the day before. The snow is no longer flakes or crystals, but saturated ice ‘kernels’ known as frozen corn. Depending on timing, aspect and other factors, this can start out like a coral reef, a very... read more

Waxing Light Hot Scraping

30x30px-ZC-9c4652b6_TA11-crop.jpg

Light Hot Scraping     A ‘cheat’ to include in your bag of tricks if you are in a hurry, got over zealous dripping wax while hot waxing or simply wish to reduce time, effort and mess while scraping after the wax cools and hardens, etc, is Light Hot Scraping.   After the wax cools for a minute or two, take a sharp plexi-scraper, held with even, light to moderate pressure at a 60° (+/-) angle towards you and pull down the full length of your ski or snowboard.   This should leave a relatively even,... read more

Base Repair Options

30x30px-ZC-9c4652b6_TA11-crop.jpg

Base Repair Options   Long the low tech and easy to implement method for the home tuner to make temporary base repairs has been burning and dripping Ptex candles. Common problems are the inclusion of carbon and discoloration of clear Ptex repairs, burning hands and fingers and the simple fact the repairs do not last (largely due to the wax included in the material, reducing the bonding). Typically, repairs need to be frequently repeated.   If you get a core shot (through the base material and into the core), additional steps are necessary, either by... read more

True Bars

30x30px-ZC-9c4652b6_TA11-crop.jpg

How flat (or not) are my bases? What are my base bevel angles? How straight are my scrapers, edge guides & tools?....are among the typical bits of information needed to perform and gauge quality of work and determine what work is required. Like any tool we carry, there is a range of quality levels available to meet budget, personal goals and acceptable tolerances. From basic straight metal bars to precise, finely milled, high quality case hardened steel, the DIY tuner can achieve the desired and necessary level of precision using the fundamental tool known as a true... read more

post #3 of 7
Thread Starter 

Cool.  Ya sorry I'm not tech on the limitations of the different bb software.  The forum announcements look great.  Is there a way you can integrate them into this sub-forum so that they are more obvious?

post #4 of 7
Thread Starter 

Sorry, just re-read your post.  How do we proceed with this?

post #5 of 7

If we can perhaps start a thread like "the best of ski tuning and maintenance" the members can recommend threads and links that resolve most common questions.  I can keep that thread circulating by adding it at the top of the forum. That way, we have a forum FAQ that can continue to upgraded and improved.  If it gets a little long, we can catagorize the links, articles and threads into things that address things like tools, base repair, tuning, storage etc.  

 

What categories do you see being important for an FAQ?

post #6 of 7
Thread Starter 

I havn't read all the articles, to be honest, I've never visited that section before.

 

 

Maybe update the factory edge angles from posts on this page.  And to name a few - 

 

Tuning kit Tool lists

 

Variable Base Bevels.

 

Extruded vs Sintered base discussion

 

Waxing for regions - east vs west

 

Edge angles for different types of skiers and skis, and regions

 

Stone grind structures

 

Heli - coil or insert installs

 

Topsheet/sidewall repair.

 

Tip repair/replacements

 

Roto-brush how-to

 

Handheld machine tuning

 

Recommended service shops by region

 

 

Thats off the top of my head.  Maybe some of this has been discussed in the forum articles already.  I'm sure others can chime in with better suggestions.  

 

I just want to help make this awesome place, even better.

 

Thanks  

post #7 of 7
Thread Starter 

Just want to add - 

 

How-to hotbox

 

How-to build hotbox

 

Base burn prevention

 

How-to measure edge angles

 

How-to layer wax

 

All of this and more has been discussed here, but seems to get lost in the pages.

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EpicSki › The Barking Bear Forums › On the Snow (Skiing Forums) › Tuning, Maintenance and Repairs › Hey Mod - This sub-forum could use a sticky FAQ