@ Meno Goslowski
You are raising a number of issues, I will comment on them one at a time:
“Both skis were hot boxed (raceskis.com - Swix MB88 Moly Flouro base wax saturation 4 hour cycles @ 130 Deg. F “)
<It is not a good idea to use a fluorinated base prep wax on a new or newly ground base. The fluoro additive prevents deep absorption by the hydrocarbon into the base and the goal with a new base is to saturate it deeply with as much hydrocarbon as possible as this creates a foundation for the hard waxes to bond to.>
“I'm using Zoom Graphite as my everyday / training wax and Race Zoom / Bullet as a race day base wax”
“I’ve been considering adding the fine steel …“
<A fine steel brush will be very beneficial, especially for base prep and for brushing out hard waxes, like the Bullet you have on hand.>
“Regardless of temperature (I've seen the same thing when it's been 15, and when it's been 40), it looks like I'm getting edge burn. From about two inches forward of the binding plate to maybe an inch behind, the first centimeter or so inside of each edge looks grayish at the end of the day. “
<This is most definitely edge burn, a problem we see more and more frequently as bases on production skis seem to be getting softer every year. Your skis were not adequately saturated by the fluoro base prep and the inside edge is a high friction area. This is a problem that requires a more systematic approach than just waxing harder, the base must first be free of fuzz, then re-saturated with a soft, deep penetrating hydrocarbon and adapted for hard snow (with hard waxes) near the edges.>
“I know some shops use a different approach and include hard waxes in the hotbox cycle. “
<Yes they do, and it is a good idea if you want to avoid edge burn.>
“The question I have is, will using the Dominator Bullet (New Snow) be enough, of should I look into the Dominator Psycho? “
<This depends on the snow conditions as well as the softness of your base and how well it retains wax. Psycho will provide better protection against burn, but on warmer snows may feel a bit slow on edge. My suggestion is to use Bullet and see if the problem goes away. If it does not, the Psycho New Snow will almost definitely correct the situation.>
“a) My understanding is edge burn typically only occurs under colder hard snow conditions.“
<This is not always the case. Frozen snow can be quite abrasive, even at warmer temperatures; so can chemically fertilized snow. The presence of impurities such as salts from snow making and pollen can also make snow abrasive, regardless of temperature.>
“b) Most of what I've read in the forums involves extreme cold waxes. I'm still new to layering multiple waxes, so the idea of using an extreme cold wax under a relatively soft wax seems a little counter intuitive. Won't there be a tradeoff in performance once the softer wax wears away?”
<Layering hot waxes is somewhat of a myth, waxes mix with each other as soon as they are melted together. Once the wax components are melted, the harder wax components stay near the surface and the softer waxes penetrate deeper into the base, so you have a gradient with the softer waxes nearer the core and the harder waxes nearer the surface.>
<<This is how I suggest you proceed:>>
Remove the edge burn fuzz with a metal scraper or by buffing with Scotchbrite.
Hot scrape with Renew Graphite, brush well.
Iron in Renew Graphite, wait for 15 minutes to half hour, scrape and brush well; do this twice.
Sprinkle one inch strips of Psycho New Snow near the edges, iron it in, then wait 5-10 minutes, scrape and brush. If you don’t have Psycho, any of the Bullets may be an adequate substitute.
Wax the entire ski with Bullet or Race Bullet, wait for half hour, scrape and brush. If you expect the temps to be in the upper 20’s or warmer, crayon Bullet near the edges and Graphite Zoom on the rest of the base. If you expect colder snow the skis are ready to ski.
Go out and ski and take a brush with you; brush and check the condition of the skis a couple of times during the day. If edge burn still appears, you will need to use Psycho near the edges every time you wax for this aggressive type of snow. We see this happen very often with new skis, the good news is that this treatment takes care of the problem. You might also consider carrying a bar of Rocket with you and rubbing on a coat during the day to help protect the base from burn.
Remember this, if you only wax a super-hard wax on a non-waxed, dry base, the hard wax does not bond well to the ski base and will scrub off quickly leaving the base venerable to burn. It is a vital step to take a few minutes to iron in a base prep and ReNew is the best choice for this. The base prep adheres to the base and then the hard wax -- like Psyco or Bullet -- bonds to the base prep resulting in less base burn and better overall wax durability.
visit: www.dominatorwax.com for more detailed information.
Hope this helps!