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How to create a less than 1 degree base bevel

post #1 of 4
Thread Starter 

Quote: Originally Posted by zentune


I have variable base bevels on my skis. For my SL's its .7 tip (first 5cm's or so, starting at contact point), .5 forebody, .25 underfoot (from just in front of toe piece to just aft of heel piece), back to .5 for the afterbody, and .7 for the tail (last 5 cm's or so)... The cool thing about this is that it allows you to go really low under foot while at the same time having a more progressive feel without the dulling effects of detuning, which is a thing of the past for high end skiers


I would like to try this out and haven't figured out how to get the .25 bevel underfoot. I have seen the metal base bevel file guides by SVST, but they start at 0.5 bevel angle. I suppose I can leave it at zero underfoot and use the 0.5 guide for the next increment up.


I just had a pair of race skis ground flat by a new shop and the base bevel is not 0, varies anywhere from a .25 to 2 deg angle. Guess the skis are going back for the second time, and will have him explain what he is doing/not doing or I will ask for a refund and go to another shop. SKiMD is in my area and he did a great job on my other skis. The shop did a good job on a full tune with a 1/3 base/side bevel. Not shure why they can't stone grind a pair of skis to 0 anlge?

post #2 of 4

Use the .5 SVST and just make a couple of light passes underfoot being sure you don't get to the full.5 or you can use a file with 



use a piece of 800 grit sandpaper folded in half (grit to grit) and wrap that tighly around my file and use THAT as my bevel guide...so it ends up being 2 thicknesses of paper between the file and the center of the base, which tilts the file at the edge close to .25. Cut your sandpaper probably 4" long by 5/8ths inch wide then fold it in half so you end up with a piece thats 2" by 5/8ths inches.  use this same idea near the tip where the bevel guides have a hard time hitting 'cause its so curved there...

post #3 of 4
Egg-zactly! Additionally, some techs will have fine files pre-wrapped with plastic tape of varying thicknesses as well (so 1 file has 1 layer of tape, another has 2, etc...) and will leave the tape on permanently, but I don't have enough fine files for this so I use the grit to grit sandpaper method. Some techs will even use strips of cloth.

When going this low (of a bevel) use light pressure and check your work often! smile.gif

post #4 of 4
Thread Starter 

Thanks guys, I will give that a try. 


I just tried out my new panzar file, the first one I have ever bought. Boy this baby sure takes off ptex and metal. Finally, I have something that will take down a base that is very out of flat. I might not bother with trying to find a close shop that can do a decent base grind and just go at it with the panzar. I used an old pair of skis and quickly learned you can put some serious digs in the ptex with the panzar. I was able to get a really bad pair of skis in pretty good shape with this file.  

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