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Sourcing padding material

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 

Boot guys,



This adhesive foam padding material, where can I get it? 

post #2 of 8

what size foot in cm?


what size boot sole length in mm?


Adding padding is a short term solution to a continuing problem.



post #3 of 8
Thread Starter 

29cm and 327mm, why does it matter? 



My ankles are skinny and my boots are kind of wide there, so the most experienced bootfitter I could find one of the largest Alpine resorts added the padding there. It's pretty effective. And cheap. 

The only problem is that on one flap, the adhesive came loose. That's why I need a sheet of this stuff.


If there are better solutions, I'm very interested in reading them.  

post #4 of 8

Often a lot of padding is added because the boots are too big----not in your case, as far as length----except----the boots have to high volume for your feet, in the heel pocket.


This is where (heel pocket) you could research to find a better fit next time around, since the heel pocket is the most important area to have a firm but comfortable hold on the foot.  If you were to find a boot which fitted your heels better and then have them fitted (adjusted) around any other problem areas, the results would turn out better.


If the "sticky" has failed on the padding, perhaps some contact cement would work.


Happy New Year,





post #5 of 8
Thread Starter 

You're right about the heel pocket being mega important. My only complaint with the boots was that in the very rough stuff, my heels lifted. 

Looking at the boots, I'm sure it's impossible to make the shell smaller in the heel area. It's thick, the two pieces overlap there, plus the ankle pivot is there. I also noticed that when I flex the boots, the ankle area bulges out quite a lot. Are all boots like that? 


Any recommendations for particular models with a small ankle area I should be looking at for my next boot purchase? You'll need more statistics, won't you? 83Kg, 182cm tall, athletic build, 29cm feet, some pronation, have othopedic insoles. Level 3+ skier on all-mountain skis with Marker Griffon bindings. 


Another question because being able to get expert advice is awesome: it is at all possible to make boot shells smaller in a certain area? 


About the stick: I took the liners back to the place where I found the experienced bootfitter the season before. He was no longer there, and his successor was a hack. He used a transparent sort of contact cement-like glue, which never stuck or dried. I'd have to clean that off with acetone as well. 

post #6 of 8

Making them bigger is possible/easy, making them smaller---not so much.  You would be better off biting the bullet and getting a better fit.


Some of the heat moldable shell boots might work for you.


Try tightening the ankle buckle (second from top) till it hurts (might need to increase the buckle leverage by drilling a hole and using a rod to extend it) then back off till it is just comfortable---then see if you can lift your heels in the boots.


Good luck



post #7 of 8
Thread Starter 

Ha, heat moldable shell boots is exactly what I have: Salomon CustomFit. Works awesome. 

post #8 of 8
Thread Starter 



The foam padding material kept coming loose. The contact cement glue area as well. 

The solution: a heat gun. Heat makes the white layer gooey and very sticky, the red part stays firm. I get the feeling this is how the foam is meant to be used. 


But still, the loose heel problem persisted. Whenever I plowed into a heap of snow or a giant mogul, my right heel would lift up, my sock would sag, and all subsequent left turns would be wobbly and weird. 

Good socks helped. Cranking down on the ankle buckle (as Mike suggested) helped as well. 


The shell was too wide in the ankle area, that was the real problem. I have skinny ankles, that's cause #1. And the CustomFit process was done AFTER the foam padding was applied, that's probably problem #2: it made the shell even wider. (Made it wider in the forefoot, which was great, but made it wider in the ankle area, which is a problem.)


So I fixed it. With a bar clamp and a heat gun. And long calipers to check that both sides were even.

It is tricky though: you need to heat both the clog and the cuff. The thicker areas will need more time to heat up than the thin ones. You can easily fry the surface and leave the bulk of the shell material cool and hard. Also, ridges tend to heat up much faster than flat parts. 

And with these Salomon Conformable boots, you can also crack the shell, where the black and the transparant materials meet. They have different coefficients of expansion. So it's risky.


But totally worth it: my boots fit snugly around the heel now. I was lucky to have a width issue, the overall volume was fine.



Another thing that really helped: I softened the flex a little bit. Previously, the flex hit a hard spot when the middle two buckles touched. So I put the 2nd buckle (counting from the toes) in a different hole and trimmed the bottom of the shin flap back by 2mm. Flex is much more progressive now.  

This prevents the heel from being levered upwards, with the tongue/shin as a fulcrum. 

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