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Marker Race Xcell16 - any good?

post #1 of 24
Thread Starter 

Hi

 

Anybody have any experience with this binding? I have been using the older Comp bindings, the Comp20 in particular, and I have been very pleased with them. This new binding seems to be very plastic. Anybody tried them out?

post #2 of 24

I just bought 2 pair of Xcel 12 for my daughter's race skis. They seem pretty good to me, but I have no experience with them yet. I like that the toe has more wrap than the Comp bindings.

post #3 of 24

The excel series was produced to solve a problem that Marker didn't have......that being unwanted release due to lack of shock absorption. The new binding at this point has replaced the older Comp 12 and 16 neither of which had any of those issues previously mentioned. The Comp 20 is still the go to binding for Men's FIS skis and the 30 is the call for speed skis b/c they also address those issues that the other bindings don't have. There is no Excel 20 or 30 at this time.

 

SJ

post #4 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by SierraJim View Post
 

The excel series was produced to solve a problem that Marker didn't have......that being unwanted release due to lack of shock absorption. The new binding at this point has replaced the older Comp 12 and 16 neither of which had any of those issues previously mentioned. The Comp 20 is still the go to binding for Men's FIS skis and the 30 is the call for speed skis b/c they also address those issues that the other bindings don't have. There is no Excel 20 or 30 at this time.

 

SJ

yup! the 20 is an excellent binding, just need to set it up properly with the extra half turn of forward pressure AND check the forward pressure regularly!.  They seem to loosen off over time...

post #5 of 24

Also i believe the Xcell doesn't fit the piston plate template

post #6 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by jzamp View Post
 

Also i believe the Xcell doesn't fit the piston plate template

i think the latest (2014) plates take both the excel and the old comp.  i have a 2014 volkl GS here and there seems to be additional holes in the plate for the toe.  the heel looks the same.  SJ or PP can probably give better info

post #7 of 24

you are right, i checked their website

post #8 of 24
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScotsSkier View Post
 

i think the latest (2014) plates take both the excel and the old comp.  i have a 2014 volkl GS here and there seems to be additional holes in the plate for the toe.  the heel looks the same.  SJ or PP can probably give better info

 

Yes, there are more holes at the toe end but otherwise its the same. I bought the Xcell 16 for my son for a pair of 3y old Blizzards that also had the new piston plate but to my surprise there were holes missing. On all my last years and this years Völkls there are additional holes up front. I've been using the Comp20 for many years now. Great binding.

post #9 of 24
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScotsSkier View Post
 

yup! the 20 is an excellent binding, just need to set it up properly with the extra half turn of forward pressure AND check the forward pressure regularly!.  They seem to loosen off over time...

 

How do you set it up properly and how do you check the forward pressure?

post #10 of 24

The FP screw should be about a click in from flush, I usually check every other race.

Problem is that if you are running a high din it's a pain to snap the boot in on a bench...

post #11 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by jzamp View Post

The FP screw should be about a click in from flush, I usually check every other race.


Problem is that if you are running a high din it's a pain to snap the boot in on a bench...

Exactly!
post #12 of 24
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jzamp View Post
 

The FP screw should be about a click in from flush,

 

Sorry, I don't understand. Please elaborate.

post #13 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by tdk6 View Post
 

 

Sorry, I don't understand. Please elaborate.

for forward pressure screw, turn it to flush then another half turn past flush

post #14 of 24
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScotsSkier View Post
 

for forward pressure screw, turn it to flush then another half turn past flush

 

I must be dumb... sorry... what is flush? Lets say its the Comp20. Is flush 10 or whatever I have set it on, lets say 14?

post #15 of 24

nope we are talking about the screw that moves the heel piece back and forward. when you click in your boots said screw should be slightly deeper than the binding case.
Bottom screw in the pic should not stick out like that, it should be one click in from flush 

post #16 of 24
Thread Starter 

Thanks, great detail photo. I just checked one pair of my skis with Comp 20 and the bottom screw doesn't flush when I put my boot into the binding. Same as in your photo. This is bad I suppose. But how do I fix it? The bindings are brand new. Out of the box.

post #17 of 24

first make sure that the bindings are set in the right hole for your BSL. there are charts somewhere here on epic for reference.
Then once the bindings are in right, adjust the position of the rear piece by turning that screw so that it's close to the boot.
Snap in, check the screw, adjust accordingly.

post #18 of 24
Thread Starter 

Strange. I have use #3 and #8 for my 335mm boot. But IMO it doesn't have anything to do with the bottom screw on the tail pc. The bottom screw adjust how much tension you can apply to the binding by setting it tight or looser but no matter how I adjust it, it doesn't change how the screw sticks out from its housing.

post #19 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by tdk6 View Post
 

Strange. I have use #3 and #8 for my 335mm boot. But IMO it doesn't have anything to do with the bottom screw on the tail pc. The bottom screw adjust how much tension you can apply to the binding by setting it tight or looser but no matter how I adjust it, it doesn't change how the screw sticks out from its housing.

 

You do mean with the boot in the binding????

 

Put boot in and check if the screw is flush with the housing (flush means that the screw and the surrounding housing match up - screw is neither drawn in or out with respect to the housing).

 

If flush, then take out boot and tighten 1 click. Then put boot in and check that the screw is drawn ever so slightly inwards.

 

If not flush then take boot out, adjust and recheck as above. Repeat until above criteria are met.

 

You should always remove the boot when adjusting a forward pressure screw to avoid stripping the worm mechanism. Some people don't bother, and some people get away with it, but why take chances?

post #20 of 24

tdk6
top big screw is the din right? turning that changes the retention force.
bottom smaller screw is forward pressure. turning it moves the entire heel piece fwd/aft, if that is not moving you have a problem.
when you snap the boot in you should notice the heel piece slide back, that will make the screw flush or in, creating the correct forward pressure.
 

post #21 of 24
Thread Starter 

Thanks guys. Really helpful. I have been skiing with these Marker Comp 20s for a while now without knowing how to set the correct forward pressure. Turns out I have had the tail pc way too far back.

 

Check out me in this video. Marker Comp 20 set at 14 I think.

post #22 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by tdk6 View Post

Strange. I have use #3 and #8 for my 335mm boot. But IMO it doesn't have anything to do with the bottom screw on the tail pc. The bottom screw adjust how much tension you can apply to the binding by setting it tight or looser but no matter how I adjust it, it doesn't change how the screw sticks out from its housing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tdk6 View Post

Thanks guys. Really helpful. I have been skiing with these Marker Comp 20s for a while now without knowing how to set the correct forward pressure. Turns out I have had the tail pc way too far back.

Check out me in this video. Marker Comp 20 set at 14 I think.


The numbers on the holes are only a guide. I set it up to get myself as far forward as possible.

Not surprising you have been coming out if forward pressure is not correct. Even more critical on marker comp than most! That is one reason they get a bad rep - because they are not set up properly and not checked regularly
post #23 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Squawker View Post
 

 

You do mean with the boot in the binding????

 

Put boot in and check if the screw is flush with the housing (flush means that the screw and the surrounding housing match up - screw is neither drawn in or out with respect to the housing).

 

If flush, then take out boot and tighten 1 click. Then put boot in and check that the screw is drawn ever so slightly inwards.

 

If not flush then take boot out, adjust and recheck as above. Repeat until above criteria are met.

 

You should always remove the boot when adjusting a forward pressure screw to avoid stripping the worm mechanism. Some people don't bother, and some people get away with it, but why take chances?

Howdy,

Is the 1 click in on Fwd pressure also recommended on the old comp 16?

Thanks

post #24 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by c20500 View Post

Howdy,
Is the 1 click in on Fwd pressure also recommended on the old comp 16?
Thanks

Yes!
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