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F. Diamir bindings

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 
For any of you who have skied on these bindings, is there an advantage or disadvantage to sliding a plastic plate under the heal piece, to build in a little forward tilt a la most alpine bindings?

PS--looking into the F. Freeride, which DINs up to 12, as opposed to 10 for the Diamir T. 2, there is extra weight involved (600g, or about 1.3 lbs). The Freeride's DIN range up to 12 is more like what I am accustomed to in the alpine setting. Any opinions on whether the extra weight is justified?
post #2 of 6
Yea, you can put a shim under the heel of a Diamir to get more delta. Assuming you are using your alpine boots, you can make it pretty equal in terms of stance. If you are using a randonee boot, you will probably find the boot has less ramp and forward lean than you are used to. This is also easily changed. One of my friends did the shim the heel thing last seaon with good results.

If you are skiing hard, and doing lift served with this setup, than the weight is worth it. Guys that huck will definatly break the diamir in under 100 days. It will be interesting to see how the Freeride holds up. Their alpine binding; the Rave has a horrible durability record. A friend of mine broke about 6 pairs in a year, and she does not go that big. Hopefully, they are getting better.
post #3 of 6
I skiied with the binding without a lifter under the back bindings in Rande boots and felt as though I was in the back seat. I put about a 12 cm plate underneath the back of each binding and it really helps. You also might check out where the bindings mount. The directions with Fritchi's mount the bindings a bit further back than a alpine binding. Since I was re-mounting the Fritchi's on a pair of used alpine skis, I went with the original boot toe mark. Had I mounted them with the directions from Fritchi, they would have been almost 3/4 of inch back. The Bindings have been very durable for me, but I tend to only use them in the spring and summer after the lifts close.
post #4 of 6
One other thing I forgot to write in my original post. The Fritchi binding is long, in other words the distance between the front binding holes and back binding holes is longer than an alpine binding. When I re-mounted my skis with Fritchis, the back binding is drilled into a narrower or less thick part of the ski. In effect the binding looked like it had negative ramp. That one another reason I decided on the back plate. Take a good look at the ski you choose and see if this applies, I'm sure it doesn't apply to every ski.
post #5 of 6
By the way, some people need a flat or negative angle on their binding. I love how flat my randonee setup is. Most alpine boot/binding combos shove me so far forward that I have to lean back to compensate. I have to do all sorts of ugly things to my alpine gear to get a neutral stance. Lots of people have this problem, and few realize it. Take a look at your stance in your gear before you mod it.
post #6 of 6
I did exactly that for a while on my Fritschi's and found the following:

- They were more similar to my traditional resort gear and, therefore, better (for me) for descents.

- The lift in the heal shortened my stride when hiking and, therefore, slowed me down a little in touring mode.

- The lift in the heal also created more slippage in the heal elevation when on the highest level (but I had the older Fritschi's and the new ones have a more stable heal elevator -- but it is worth asking the shop about).

Like most things in backcountry gear, it is a downhill performance vs. touring performance tradeoff so I wouldn't add an extreme amount of lift, though I did prefer more than what came out of the box (once again, I had the older model and I think the newer model has a slight bit more forward lean -- though still far less than a full alpine setup).
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