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Hotronics install question

post #1 of 15
Thread Starter 

I've been skiing the Lange RS/RX 130 boot the last few years and I'm starting this season with a new pair after April foot surgery.  My normal install of the Hotronics element is to run the wire down through a hole in the toe of the footbed straight back under the footbed and out the slot that Lange now manufactures in their liners.  The front half of the footbed accomodates the wire thickness well enough but under the heel it ends up raising me up in the boot by the thickness of the wire.  I don't have a bunch of instep height to spare and also battle the length of the cord given my 29 shell.

 

Has anyone dremeled a "channel' in the bottom of the footbed to acommodate the Hotronics wire ?  I have pretty standard footbeds made by my bootfitter using Sidas components.  Will the footbed tolerate this or would it ruin it ?

 

My bootfitter is too busy to even take calls right now, taking this to him is not an option right now.

post #2 of 15

This is the way I used to do it based on Greg Hoffman's methods, doesn't need a hole made in the footbed.  Make a hole in the front of your liner that the wire comes out of and duct tape around that hole.

 

hiboot back.jpg

 

Boot front.jpg

post #3 of 15
Thread Starter 

I appreciate the pics, the "toe exit" is one option I'm considering...


Edited by gregmerz - 11/19/13 at 4:32pm
post #4 of 15

I've done the Dremel trick, actually!!

 

I used this video as a reference starting point.  Not the greatest narrator but the information is good:

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RixJROXmvOQ

 

My foot beds are hard-soled, and I didn't want to run the cord outside the top of the boot/liner like the photo above, because I think there's a significant chance the cable will break/kink when removing the liner anytime in the future. So I sliced in the heating pad, covered the entire sole (top) with the sticky cloth covering.  Then on the bottom of the sole I did Dremel out a small channel where the cable would be crushed by the contact point inside the boot.  Taped it down, made a small slice in the rear heel of the liner, taped it all up, cabled up the back of the liner to the top.  Liner back in the shell, battery pack mounted on the side NOT the back, and DONE.  This way everything is self-contained INSIDE the liner, under the footbed, and only exits at the rear which is a straight run when removing the liner from the shell.  Never had a problem with the cable or tape this way, very clean way of doing it.  Requires just a bit of extra work but I think it's worth it in the end.

 

I haven't found any problems whatsoever with compromising the footbed because of the channel.  There's still plenty of support and it actually bridges the channel, so it makes no structural difference.  I can't see how it would, because once the footbed is in the liner, and the liner is back in the shell, everything is static.  There's pressure but no movement.  There's nowhere for the footbed or liner to deform because it's all snug against my foot, the liner, and the shell.

 

I thought I was the only weirdo who broke out the Dremel to install my Hotronics LOL.  Nice to know great (crazy?) minds think alike!  :D 

 

 

P.S---Gimme a few minutes to take a couple pics and upload.......

post #5 of 15

Just realized I can't pull out my footbed to show the setup without completely re-cabling the whole thing.  Sorry, just not that ambitious tonight.  Maybe this will help a bit, here's my Hotronics setup in my Intuitions.....exits out the rear bottom, cable runs UNDER the footbed inside the liner.  Small Dremel channel and it's all good:

 

post #6 of 15

By the way after years of using them going through at least three versions of the batteries, multiple mounting methods of the batteries and replacing the elements I sold all the parts and batteries on ebay and now use Toasty Toe chemical packs.  stick one on the top of the toes/foot and have no problem getting into the boot and they're much warmer than the Hotronic.  I  buy a case on Amazon.

post #7 of 15

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007ZF4PE/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1 $36 for 40 days worth.  Don't need them every day out with Intuitions anyway.  

post #8 of 15
Thread Starter 

I could try the stick-on chemical pads but my fit is SNUG.  Not sure I'd get in without them peeling off of position.

post #9 of 15

My fit is extremely snug too, 25.5 boots on 8 ½ street shoe size, in fact I have to have my toe boxes blown out a bit so my feet aren't too squeezed, but on top of the toes there's enough room for the little pad.  I've only had one come off while slipping the boots on once last year, and I knew right away of course and took the boot off and fixed it.

 

I never thought I could fit them in either, and wouldn't want one one under my toes.

post #10 of 15
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkiMangoJazz View Post
 

My fit is extremely snug too, 25.5 boots on 8 ½ street shoe size, in fact I have to have my toe boxes blown out a bit so my feet aren't too squeezed, but on top of the toes there's enough room for the little pad.  I've only had one come off while slipping the boots on once last year, and I knew right away of course and took the boot off and fixed it.

 

I never thought I could fit them in either, and wouldn't want one one under my toes.

 

Worth a try, thanks.

post #11 of 15

Most new liners have a pre-cut hole at the top of the heel for the boot heater wire. Idea being running under the footbed is the least disturbing to the liner fit. 

post #12 of 15

I find the toe warmers don't work very long at all, not to mention no space with such a snug fit.  Apparently they cease to function after absorbing all the oxygen inside the liner, at which point they stop producing heat.  When I pull them out, they start to warm up again after being able to absorb oxygen.  Quite useless for me, really.

post #13 of 15

A boot fitter told me another method for the chemical packs.  Stick them on the outside of the boot over the toe area and then put a boot glove over that.  Said it has been successful.

post #14 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunnerbob View Post
 

I find the toe warmers don't work very long at all, not to mention no space with such a snug fit.  Apparently they cease to function after absorbing all the oxygen inside the liner, at which point they stop producing heat.  When I pull them out, they start to warm up again after being able to absorb oxygen.  Quite useless for me, really.

 

I have not found this to be the case and my toes get cold, the hotronics wore out faster for me.  Might depend on the brand and also how "fresh" they are.  They do get old even in the plastic packs.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by L&AirC View Post
 

A boot fitter told me another method for the chemical packs.  Stick them on the outside of the boot over the toe area and then put a boot glove over that.  Said it has been successful.

 

I tried this and it was useless on a very cold day.  I do put the Boot Gloves on over my boots with the toe warmers inside the shell if it's frigid.  Never really felt that they did much though.

 

As to my shell fit, I have to heat the shell up in a heated bag to get them on and on a very cold day have to blow dry them for thirty seconds or so to get them off without an extreme amount of effort.  So they're tight, but I guess not that tight right above my toes.

post #15 of 15
I have found that the body gloves installed in the lodge over my warm boots really helps in the am, but not quite so effective in the pm, for some reason.

In any case, I am now got fitted with new lange RX130lv's in place of my older toe cramped Technica Infernos. I suspect that a better proper fitting boot should allow me to go w/o a heater installation. And, if I did opt to install heater down the road, I would do it post-break in. Keep those feets warm!
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