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Where IsTrue Centre on a Volkl Shiro?

post #1 of 14
Thread Starter 

Just wondering if anyone knew where true centre on a 183 Shiro would be.... and if you measure back 6cm from that point, would you end up at 0, +1 or +2?

0 of course being the furthest back mounting line.

Would really appreciate a heads up!
post #2 of 14

why not just mount on the recommended line?


the Germans aren't known for making mistakes on accuracy...

post #3 of 14
Thread Starter 
For sure!

I have faith in the Germans...

It's just that I read an article earlier saying that for all mountain powder skiing -6 from true centre was reommended. I was curious to know where that ended up on the Shiro's multiple choice mounting points.

My original gut feeling based on tons of reviews was to go +1 forward of the back line. If someone had easy access to a pair I wanted to know if -6 from true centre and +1 from the furthest back reference line turned out to be the same thing.
post #4 of 14
I would think you use a soft 'sewing or tailors' tape measure, count, and divide by 2. But what Donmarco said above.
post #5 of 14
Thread Starter 
OK so I appreciate all that...

According to this article...

Most manufactures’ boot center marks are not the actual center of the ski. Volkl in particular has a tendency to place their boot center marks farther back than what is ideal for most people using their skis as all mountain skis.

As a general rule the best way to have your twin tips mounted is to find the “true center” of the ski and measure back from there. The easiest way to do this is to stand one ski on its tail and the other on its tip. Measure this distance (in centimeters) between the two “recommended mounting points” and split that measurement in half. Now measure that distance forward of the manufacturers recommended mounting point. This will net you the “true center” of the ski.

Now to find your ideal mounting location:

- For rails mount “true center”. This will give your skis a lot of balance.

- For park mount 2cm back from “true center”. This give you more pop off jumps.

- For 50/50 park/all-mountain mount 4cm back from “true center”. This provides a good balance of pop in the park and stability when cruising.

- For all-mountain/powder mount 6cm back from “true center”. This will allow you to weight your tips on hard pack, yet allow you tails to sink in powder.

- For powder/big mountain mount 8cm back from “true center”. This will make it difficult to get forward on hard pack, but you will float effortlessly in powder.

... The Shiro doesn't really fit in with that scale. I just came back from a shop and measured a pair of 193s and the 0 mounting point is 11cm back of true centre. Even mounted at +2 on the ski, the binding is behind the "powder/big mountain" setting by 1cm, based on the above mentioned mounting point options.
post #6 of 14

How current is the article you're referencing? Does it take into account the tip and tail rocker on many/most modern skis (or ELP rocker in the case of the Shiro) in their recommended measurements? I'd certainly think that tip rocker would move the "best" mounting point on the ski farther back. My Shiros are mounted on the line and they've given me nothing but grins for all-mountain and powder skiing. Lots and lots of grins!

post #7 of 14

As far as I'm aware, the furthest forward mark on the ski, which is +3 on the 183, is -6 from center. Therefore the recommended line is -9.

post #8 of 14
Thread Starter 
I pulled all my info from this article, dated 1/26/2013...


Using their calculations, I found true centre to be +11 from the "0" line.
post #9 of 14
Thread Starter 

Where did you get that info?

There are 3 lines on the Shiro... 0, +1 and +2. Does this mean the two lines ahead of "0" have actually 1.5cm between them?
post #10 of 14
Originally Posted by Flywalker View Post


Where did you get that info?

There are 3 lines on the Shiro... 0, +1 and +2. Does this mean the two lines ahead of "0" have actually 1.5cm between them?

My bad I meant +2, I just quickly glanced and saw 3 lines and thought +3 haha.

post #11 of 14

Realize this is an older thread, but I'm working on dialing in my mount position on a Volkl Shiro and wondered if anyone has advice on what has worked for them?  I mounted the 193cm length at Volkl's "zero" point, thinking they must have it pretty dialed in, German engineering and all.  After skiing them a half dozen times in all sorts of conditions from deep powder to groomers, chop, etc. I think the zero point is actually incorrect for this ski.  Don't get me wrong, in deep powder it's great, you can haul ass and the tips are unsinkable.  As the powder gets a little bit tracked out though that's when the issues start to surface.  Feels like I'm having to put way too much forward lean & heavy pressure on the fronts of my boots, just can't get over the tips enough to engage the front of the ski.  I guess if all you ski is boot deep powder the zero point would be great, but in reality even on a powder day how many runs will you get to ski fresh lines?  In my neck of the woods things get tracked out after a couple of hours and I'd like to be able to enjoy these skis for the rest of the day.  After doing some reading I hear the Volkl team riders prefer a +2 or even +3 mounting position (+3 isn't even marked on the ski, Volkl's lines only go up to +2)  From what I can tell so far I'd agree that a more forward position would really help this ski.  I'm thinking about re-mounting to the +2 position... hate to drill more holes but it's gotta happen.  Has anyone found a mounting position they would recommend for this ski?  Really like the way this ski performs in lot of ways, hoping a re-mount at +2 will solve it.

post #12 of 14

I've got 193s mounted on the line at 317 BSL and they are fine for me so not a lot of help I'm afraid.

post #13 of 14

I had my Marker Schizo binding mounted on the line on my Shiro's, if I ever want I can slide them forward or back.

post #14 of 14

Yeah that would be a lot nicer than re-drilling to find the best center point!  Have you played around with the forward-back adjustment?  I think I'm going to grab a demo pair & try a few different center positions before re-drilling mine.  Probably should have done this in the first place right?  Excellent timing, shoot first and ask questions later.

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