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sharpening knives with diamond stones?

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 

I was deboning a turkey the other day and found one of my knives to be dull to the point that it's almost unusable. I don't have any specific tool for sharpening knives. But I do have diamond stones! Any reason not to use a diamond stone to sharpen a knife? 

post #2 of 12
Funny you brought this up, I just bought a box of tuning gear and it included this large diamond whetstone I could only imagine to be useful for sharpening knives. Let me know if you'd be interested, I have no use for it. It does appear to have a lot of life left.

post #3 of 12

I like my diamond stones so much I found a diamond version of the classic butchers steel for carving knives.

post #4 of 12

The exact same 5 inch diamond stones that came in my 1st tuning kit were sold at my local hardware store as knife sharpeners.  So I bought a couple.

post #5 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Metaphor_ View Post

I was deboning a turkey the other day and found one of my knives to be dull to the point that it's almost unusable. I don't have any specific tool for sharpening knives. But I do have diamond stones! Any reason not to use a diamond stone to sharpen a knife? 

I use them all the time. The only difference is the size. I have a larger one I got for knives specifically and follow up with my tuning stones. When I'm done I can shave the back of my hand.

I would also offer, that Furi offers a knife sharpening system that works well and is easy to use. You can go from resetting the edges to sharpen to polish. Using sharpening stones scared my wife so I got this set up for her and she loves it and doesn't have to wait on me.

The only trick to using stones for a knife edge is consistent edge angle. You can get kits, make one or practice until you get it right. One of the tricks that helps me is to pretend you are trying to slice (shave) the top off a bar do soap or block of cheese. That and make sure you get the entire blade.

Ken
post #6 of 12
Thread Starter 

Thanks guys :) Hopefully this is one edge I can't screw up

post #7 of 12
I use something like this http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Knife-Sharpening-Steel-Steel/dp/B00237VWPU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1383020225&sr=8-4&keywords=diamond+steel. Can't imagine being able to hold a diamond stone steady enough for the job.
post #8 of 12
For freehand sharpening you want something 6" minimum, 8" or 10" idealy. Key thing is hold a consistent angle, 20° off stone.

If you aren't experienced though it's a lot easier to buy a lansky turnbox or spyderco sharpmaker.

A sharp knife is safer and joy to use, you should be able to do this on hair.


splittinghair.jpg
post #9 of 12
Thread Starter 

wow!

post #10 of 12
Not hard to do really, anybody can do it. I see you are in Toronto now, you can pick up a lansky turnbox from Sail or Lebaron for less than $20, Lebaron even has a tax free sale till end of the month. It's the one in middle of right column. http://www.lebaron.ca/pdf_files_sp13/lansky.pdf
post #11 of 12
Like with most things, comes down to how sharp/accurate you want the edge. I have the Lansky and it works, but I find it to not be the simplest thing to use. The Furi is ridiculously simple. There is also the "Wicked Edge" which is like the Lansky but a bit pricier but also looks to be better made. I have not used it though. There is also the "Work Sharp Knife and Tool Sharpener". Looks like it is even better and easier to use, but again is getting pricey.

I'm fairly decent at holding something close to an accurate angle and since more times than not, I sharpen my pocket knife while in the shop, a diamond stone works great. For bigger knifes it is good to have some sort of system or device designed for them,and with those, you can end as much as you want. No different than any other tool - what is going to work for you and will you be happy with? I used to always go cheap and then found myself getting an upgrade. How did that end up being cheaper!

Ken
post #12 of 12

Edge angle depends on the grind of the knife.  The secondary bevel on many kitchen knives comes from the factory at 15 degrees.  A puukko is laid flat to the stone -- it has no secondary bevel, and it can be made scalpel-sharp.  (That kind of an edge is too delicate for boning, though.)

 

See http://www.ragweedforge.com

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