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replacing the crank on my MTN bike, need suggestions.

post #1 of 18
Thread Starter 

I have a very functional Rocky Mountain Slayer 70, oh and its an '07. Its not the hottest ride out there but it works for me at the moment.(basically lacking funds to purchase something better). The issue is that my cranks are constantly coming loose, due to the crank are being bent. Or, so I'm told. I have to tighten them at least once a ride. I've decided to replace the cranks but being a newb in the world of mountain bikes I have no idea what specific components to purchase. I've decided to go with a 1x setup with a 32T ring.

 

So, what is available out there? I don't want to spend a fortune because i do plan on replacing the bike next spring, but i've had enough of constantly stopping to tighten my cranks.

I hope i have provided enough info to get some good advice, or failing that, some bad advice or crackpot suggestions.

Thanks.

 

If there is a critical piece of info i'm missing please let me know.

post #2 of 18
post #3 of 18
Thread Starter 
post #4 of 18

cranks being bent is causing them to come loose? that does not sound right to me at all. The bolts might just need loctited, and you could run a 1x9 on your current crank if that works out......

 

is depends on what you want to do but the cheapest way would to be to get a narrow/wide profile chainring, a bash guard and a guide. 

 

if you need a new crank I would hold off honestly if your getting a new bike unless you plan on transfering the new crank to the new bike.... if  its compatible. 

post #5 of 18

My suggestion is a Shimano SLX or Zee crank. Hard to beat those for the money.

post #6 of 18

If these are your cranks no wonder !!!!

 

http://www.mtbr.com/cat/drivetrain/crankset/race-face/deus/prd_364275_115crx.aspx

 

I replaced mine with Shimano XT which I can move over to my next bike

 

Kept the old ones too so I can retrofit if needed when I sell

 

I have no problems since I changed over :)

post #7 of 18
post #8 of 18
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by near nyquist View Post
 

If these are your cranks no wonder !!!!

 

http://www.mtbr.com/cat/drivetrain/crankset/race-face/deus/prd_364275_115crx.aspx

 

I replaced mine with Shimano XT which I can move over to my next bike

 

Kept the old ones too so I can retrofit if needed when I sell

 

I have no problems since I changed over :)

 

Holy crap! 

Exactly what is occurring! I don't think those are the exact cranks i have but the issues are all the same.

post #9 of 18
Yeah, well known issues with race face cranks. I was a victim too. (Now someone is going to come along and say they were not installed and/or maintained correctly. Whatever.) The Shimano design is just better. Recommend having a good shop set you up with exactly what will work on your bike for 1x setup, if you're not an old hand at drive train details.
post #10 of 18
Sounds like an endemic issue with your setup

If you go the shimano route you will need to change the bottom bracket out
Any competent bike shop can do this work
post #11 of 18

The cotter pins used to bend in my cranks all the time when I was jumping crazy stuff.  The bike had shocks too.  Hopefully the pins are made better these days.

post #12 of 18
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh Matta View Post
 

cranks being bent is causing them to come loose? that does not sound right to me at all. The bolts might just need loctited, and you could run a 1x9 on your current crank if that works out......

 

is depends on what you want to do but the cheapest way would to be to get a narrow/wide profile chainring, a bash guard and a guide. 

 

if you need a new crank I would hold off honestly if your getting a new bike unless you plan on transfering the new crank to the new bike.... if  its compatible. 

I've tried loctite several times to no avail. 

 

alright, so i should bite the bullet and go to a shop to get this sorted. Not the one who told me the cranks were bent.

 

or buy a new bike.

post #13 of 18

The RaceFace Evolve and Dues cranks were notorious for coming loose especially if you got a set without the crank pull cap which also acted as a lock on the main bolt. The only safe way to use them is to torque test the crank bolt every few rides to make sure it wan't coming loose.

 

I've put together over 20 mountain bikes the past 6 years. Here are some crank comparable to the Dues I've used that I was happy with:

 

Bargain:

 

Shimano LX Hollowtech 2 - The chain rings don't look as sleek as the XT but they shift cleanly and you can often find good deals on this crank.

 

Mid-price:

 

Shimano SLX - Once again, not as sleek looking as the XT but  they work very well.

Truvativ Stylo GXP/SRAM X-7 GXP - From what I can tell these cranks are the same model rebranded. Very nice cranks.....my second favorite crank after the XT

FSA V-Pro - These must be made by the same people that make the Shimano cranks. Work very well. You do need to be careful when pushing the crank axle through the bottom bracket because its real easy to crack the plastic bearing cover on the other side. (Even though the Shimano bottom brackets look almost identical I never have had this issue with them.)

FSA Afterburner - These are spendy cranks but you can often find them heavily discounted on eBay. Similar to the V-Pro but with slightly stiffer crank arms and nicer rings.

 

Upper price:

Shimano XT - After installing a couple I can see why they demand a higher price on eBay. Everything about them says quality. Well worth the price for a longterm investment.

Truvativ Stylo OCT GXP/SRAM X-9 GXP - Nicer than the regular Stylo. Well worth the money but since they often are priced 20 to 30 below the XT I'd opt for the XT

post #14 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by crgildart View Post
 

The cotter pins used to bend in my cranks all the time when I was jumping crazy stuff.  The bike had shocks too.  Hopefully the pins are made better these days.

 

there is no modern crank with cotter pins. thank paghetti monster.

 

Rio list i great. XT crank IMO are the best strength to weight ratio on the market. I can easily flex XTRs or SRAM's carbon cranks but the XTs are strong. For a cheaper heavy XT look at SLX or Zee.

post #15 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh Matta View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by crgildart View Post
 

The cotter pins used to bend in my cranks all the time when I was jumping crazy stuff.  The bike had shocks too.  Hopefully the pins are made better these days.

 

there is no modern crank with cotter pins. thank paghetti monster.

 

*sigh* I miss Ghost's  post about his old Raleigh GP - he was the only one i know of still using these.

You can still get cottered cranks from sunlite.    And the pins are exactly the same because their purpose is exactly the same.

post #16 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by cantunamunch View Post
 

 

*sigh* I miss Ghost's  post about his old Raleigh GP - he was the only one i know of still using these.

You can still get cottered cranks from sunlite.    And the pins are exactly the same because their purpose is exactly the same.

 

 

no reason to get them. you probably pay more for part that works worse than a low end modern crank. how did you possibly have bike with shocks, and a cottered crank? the first suspension forks were out in the around 1990 and we were well past cranks like that.

 

curious why did you post about cotter cranks in the first place? you must have know that noone in their right mind would use those anymore. its arguable whether Ghost is in the right mind or not.........

post #17 of 18

 

Don't ask me, ask crgildart.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Josh Matta View Post
 how did you possibly have bike with shocks, and a cottered crank? the first suspension forks were out in the around 1990 and we were well past cranks like that.

 

curious why did you post about cotter cranks in the first place? you must have know that noone in their right mind would use those anymore.

post #18 of 18
It's bait.

He's just waiting for some fellow Luddite to quip, "Welcome back, cotter."
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