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Binding Screw stuck, not the one you're thinking of

post #1 of 19
Thread Starter 

So I've search and searched and haven't found a thread, or much info online for that matter, of what to do when the screw that adjusts the binding DIN is stuck. Don't get me wrong, I know how to remove a stripped screw (it isn't yet), what I do not know is if I can damage the binding. I was going to break out the PB blaster, but that is pretty strong stuff... Also if the screw is really, really stuck would forcing it to spin tweak anything internally? 

 

I went with the safe route for now and sprayed some WD (alittle less potent than PB) in there and will let it soak over night. Nothing is stripped.... yet. I'm a little scared to put more torque on the screw since it may strip under the added power. 

post #2 of 19

What binding? How old is it? 

post #3 of 19

Have you tried turning it with the boot in it?

post #4 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philpug View Post

What binding? How old is it? 

Axial² 140 Ti TPX, the one that comes on the Pursuit HP. It's pretty much new, I skied it 5-6 times this past season.

Quote:
Originally Posted by crgildart View Post

Have you tried turning it with the boot in it?

I have not, but I have tried it with the binding "open". I should have mentioned this earlier but it is the heel piece I'm having trouble with, and it's both of them. Both the toe pieces were turning fine though.

post #5 of 19

are you using a pozidrive #3 and not a philips? is the heel piece sticking up or parallel to the ski?

the 14 DIN bindings are not "stuck" you just need to use the right tool(s)

post #6 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by waxman View Post

are you using a pozidrive #3 and not a philips? is the heel piece sticking up or parallel to the ski?

the 14 DIN bindings are not "stuck" you just need to use the right tool(s)

Pozidriv*, yep I'm familiar with them I've worked at a ski shop for the past couple years. Tried the heel piece both open and closed and and it doesn't want to turn. I've never seen any binding do this, ever. I was debating putting a c-clamp on the driver  I was using to get more leverage but that's when I think I may run into bigger problems with the screw stripping.

post #7 of 19
Have you tried a bit of shock? Next stage after wd and before heat (not an option in this case) is to apply a bit of shock. Place the posidrive screw driver in position and give it a quick crack with a hammer. If that doesn't loosen it up, apply a counter clockwise force to the screw driver while you give it a wack or two with the hammer.
post #8 of 19

See if you can fit a pozi-drive bit from a socket set to an impact socket driver.

post #9 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by east or bust View Post

Pozidriv*, yep I'm familiar with them I've worked at a ski shop for the past couple years. Tried the heel piece both open and closed and and it doesn't want to turn. I've never seen any binding do this, ever. I was debating putting a c-clamp on the driver  I was using to get more leverage but that's when I think I may run into bigger problems with the screw stripping.

I've had similar problems in the past and used a tuning vice clamped onto the driver to get more leverage.  It worked great and all the screws came out unstripped.  Give it a shot, more leverage should be able to ge the screws out.

post #10 of 19
You might have a warranty issue here, at this point since you haven't been able to un seize it and it is this years Pursuit, bring it into a shop, they can send the heel back.
post #11 of 19
Thread Starter 

Thanks for all of the feedback guys, I really appreciate it.  When I get home in a few hours I will try clamping the driver and see what happens. 

 

I'm also not sure if the warranty applies for me since I got them through the employee purchase program. But if all else fails I'll have to at least try it out.

post #12 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skibum220 View Post

I've had similar problems in the past and used a tuning vice clamped onto the driver to get more leverage.  It worked great and all the screws came out unstripped.  Give it a shot, more leverage should be able to ge the screws out.


It is the DIN adjustment screw, not the mounting screws.  I'd avoid using a lot of caveman technique on the DIN screw.  I'm thinking there may be some kind of safety lever or catch somewhere to keep the setting in tact that OP has not discovered. .. especially since it is both of them and they are recent model/yr.

post #13 of 19

Doesn't the Axial have a hex socket adjustment (with a posi-drive socket inside). I have always found it difficult to to adjust the heel pieces on Look PX15 and Rossi something-or-other bindings with a screwdriver. I use the 8 or 10mm hex key which is a lot easier to handle and gives you the added leverage being L-shaped.

post #14 of 19

Where's you hammer??? biggrin.gif

but seriously you could try some "love taps" (rubber hammer) and see if it breaks loose, you might have some build up of snow/salt/dirt in it.
Also if it really feels like nothing is moving you should follow Philpug advice, a shop can try to loosen it up for you, with their tools at their risk. If it's broken they'll get you a warranty substitution and if it's not they check that it actually works as designed!


 

post #15 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeroGravity View Post

Doesn't the Axial have a hex socket adjustment (with a posi-drive socket inside). I have always found it difficult to to adjust the heel pieces on Look PX15 and Rossi something-or-other bindings with a screwdriver. I use the 8 or 10mm hex key which is a lot easier to handle and gives you the added leverage being L-shaped.


DING, DING, DING... winner, winner, chicken dinner. Also, pop the heel 'up' into the 'closed' position, it's easier to access and it is easier to turn the screw for some reason (takes less torque).

post #16 of 19
Thread Starter 

So I got it too spin... with a socket wrench with a pozi bit. It's pretty ridiculous how difficult it was to turn those bolts even with the wrench. I just dropped the DIN on my Markers two days earlier which were set at 9.5 with no issues at all. The Rossi's were set at 7.5 and even after letting them soak the only way I could turn them was with the wrench. I determined it wasn't so much that they were seized, just really hard to turn. The toe pieces went fine with a regular screw driver type handle.

 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeroGravity View Post

Doesn't the Axial have a hex socket adjustment (with a posi-drive socket inside). I have always found it difficult to to adjust the heel pieces on Look PX15 and Rossi something-or-other bindings with a screwdriver. I use the 8 or 10mm hex key which is a lot easier to handle and gives you the added leverage being L-shaped.

Yes they do have the hex socket on the outside part of the head. I probably should have tried one of those but I wasn't thinking.  rolleyes.gif  That is probably my best bet for the setting these bindings in the future.

post #17 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by east or bust View Post

 

 

 

Yes they do have the hex socket on the outside part of the head. I probably should have tried one of those but I wasn't thinking.  rolleyes.gif  That is probably my best bet for the setting these bindings in the future.

 

Duuh!!biggrin.gif    Helps when you use the right tool!.  I carry a hex T  key in my race bag for these

post #18 of 19
Thread Starter 

For reference 8mm and 5/16" fit best in these bindings, not sure if that is universal or not.

post #19 of 19

Given that they are European, I would say that they are designed to be 8mm and not 5/16 (7.94mm), which could be used in a pinch.

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