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Help: Dynastar Omeglass PX bindings installation - Page 2

post #31 of 35
Thread Starter 
The store has shipped a replacement toe binding on a next day delivery at no cost. I keep the defect binding so no hassle of shopping it back. Now that's great, no exceptional customer service. I'll definitely buy from them again. Likely soon.
post #32 of 35
Thread Starter 
Here is the anatomy of the look toe binding (took apart the unreturned defect one). Very simple structure.
1. The whole toe release system is built around one thick coil of spring--the left and right toe retainer pieces are connected in the center hinge (pic 3)
2. One end of a thick alloy rod attached to the hinge and the other end is screwed to the exterior din setting bolt. The spring lies inbetween pulling the retainers inwards the casing (pic 2)
3. As the din setting bolt gets tightened, the spring tension gets higher, requiring higher torque external force to pull the retainer pieces away into release position.
4. There is a small roller in the retainer piece that contacts the front sole of the boot which minimizes friction in order for the boot to release better (pic 5)



Pic 3

Pic 4

Pic 5

Lessons to be taken from this:
1. Din reading cannot be trusted/you need torque testing and calibration even for new bindings: the technology employed for bindings, including the din indicator, is very simple and rudimentary. Any material/manufacturing variance in springs will result in varying default spring tension.
2. Buy bindings with highest din range you can handle: it's obvious from my observation that there is only one way to increase din--by increasing spring tension. In order to withstand higher spring tension, the binding parts individually and collectively must be more durable. If your din is 7, 3-10 din bindings need to work much harder than 7-14 din bindings.
Edited by nochaser - 4/24/13 at 5:30pm
post #33 of 35
Thread Starter 
I'd like to take apart the heel piece but I don't have one to mess around with. Anyone?
Edited by nochaser - 4/24/13 at 5:32pm
post #34 of 35

Almost ALL binding screws are way too tight!  4 newton meters is correct. that's about 35 inch pounds or 3 foot pounds- not very  much.


 IMHO just about every stripped screw barring those that were drilled too small, too large or too shallow, are caused by over tightening.  And, checking constantly to see if they are tight by adding another 1/8-1/4 turn every time you check just destroys the hole threads slowly but surely.  put them in finger tight 4nm and leave them alone. 


Use white glue as both a lubricant and shock absorber.

post #35 of 35

I was talking with our ski tech this weekend about how my son had sheared a bolt head right off a heel piece of a PX-15. Said it usually caused by overtightening. He said he tightens just until the bolt head is just seated and a 1/4 turn that's it

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