Edited by nochaser - 1/19/14 at 7:41pm
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Edited by nochaser - 1/19/14 at 7:41pm
You're not sure its supposed to be that way? With loose screws? You think hammering on the forward pressure indicator is a good next step?
That plate was predrilled and tapped for the binding screws, so it is as close to foolproof as industry can make it.
The binding came with photographs and detailed instructions in four languages on how to set the forward pressure.
The answer to both of your questions is obvious. Put all of your tools in a sturdy bag and leave them curbside on large item day. Never ever attempt to mount or adjust your ski bindings again.
Take a good look at the p-tex under the bindings to be sure they didn't drive the screws too deep. Usually when the screw stops it does so because it is longer than the depth of the hole drilled. If you try to drive it anyway it pushes up the bottom of the ski. Grind down the screw and/or drill deeper when the screw stops before it is flush.
You don't need a toqrue screwdriver and you don't want a Phillips screwdriver. You want a #3 Posi-drive, similar, but not the same. http://www.instructables.com/id/When-a-Phillips-is-not-a-Phillips-Plus-So-Much-Mor/step97/Posidrivereg/
See those markings at 45 degrees to the slots on the binding screws, that indicates a posi-drive head. You can get away with a large phillips except when you really need to torque something, Posi-drive screwdrivers aren't particularly common and you probably need to order it from a ski tuning supply shop.
As for the snarky DIY bashing.. Hats off to OP for risking a brand new set of gear while learning how to mount bindings. Most folks practice on a 2X4 or old pair before having the nerve to go for it on virgins. It is possible for semi handy folks to get through it without totally wrecking the equipment or themselves if they really want to risk $500 to save $50. I fall in to that category myself so I'm really saying congrats for pulling it off. Tip on the proper tools is also spot on and something I ran in to and had to figure out for myself many years ago on the end of trying to get the bindings OFF the old skis. Totaled the screws LOL!
On that link, Goode says this"6) Drive all screws into the ski as recommended by the binding manufacturer to a torque value of 4 N-M. Double check to make sure the screws and binding are fully seated on the ski. Do not over torque the screws."
From this, I think my ski shop guy probably was using a 3Nm torque screwdriver. He probably didn't see the dot and misread the setting "3.0".
My research is complete.
Meh, manufacturers of carbon fiber anything are chronically paranoid about fastener torques, in their literature anyway. It gives them plausible deniability. " What? Your ski topsheet/bike tube is cracked? Can't be our fault. You should have only tightened that screw/front derailleur clamp to 4.367 Nm. Better luck next time."
Just in case you didn't plan for that to be a joke, he/she/it was using a straight-shaft Pozidrive and didn't seat/hold the binding down properly while torquing the screws. Hey, at least he/she/it didn't forget to put in the requisite plastic lifters under the heel piece, for example, which would have both left the screw heads high and bubbled the bases .* ** Small favors.
** There is such a thing as a Look factory-made toepiece lift plate
Don't ski that without having funds available to repair the wife's ACL on the other leg when a ski suddenly flies off mid turn.
No way to repair that.. She's dead Jim!
So, those are the ones you paid a pro to mount right?? Something to be said about dealing with brick and mortar shops. You could take it there and get it replaced on the way to the ski hill if purchased locally.
Take them back where you bought them. Any reputable shop would replace that immediately if it didn't happen due to airline damage or some kind of abuse. If you bought them online, well.. send them back. That's the cost of not buying locally.
'could' was the operative part there - I wasn't 100% sure of the date of the binding (yeah, I know, the DIN window is pretty modern and it looks like part of a Fluid system) and NX11s have been made for a long time.
Yeh, I would hope so.
Well, the super glue obviously didn't hold long enough for the online retailer to pass it off on some unsuspecting internet buyer. Really, I'd be suspicious that they already knew it was broken and tried to super glue it and sell it online. It takes a seriously direct and hard hit to break a wing off a toe piece. It's not going to just pop off in your hand unless it was already broken.