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Tuning race skis - shop refused 3 degree edge angle? - Page 2

post #31 of 35

A machine can be set to certain edge angles & bevels. If the ski has the same edge angles & bevels then the edges will be sharpened, smoothed and polished. If the ski does not have the same edge angles & bevels, then the machine cannot create new edges. If you wanted a machine to set new edges every time, then your ski would be ground down to nothing very quickly.

post #32 of 35
I would not recommend frequently grinding your skis, lightly or otherwise. Once, maybe twice a season or less, but to each his own.

If you are a recreational skier you are only shortening the life span of your equipment. If you are racing you're starting from scratch after any grind with regards to getting your skis fast, and ready to race.

I don't know what you mean by lightly, but even with only one pass 1 of 2 things is happening, either you're changing, most likely convoluting, the existing structure with new structure on top, or you're taking down the structure with each pass. Either way you're changing the existing base, as well as base edge bevel, and this now needs to be corrected. If your grind is done properly in the first place the ski should be flat, smooth, and stay that way for a long time.

As far as edge machines, it all depends on what it is and who is operating it. If its a snowglide or a ceramic disc machine it will remove fractions of a mm while cutting a fresh bevel. If its a sanding belt it depends on the grit, speed, lubrication, and operator.
Edited by SmoothRides - 3/29/13 at 12:59am
post #33 of 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by Metaphor_ View Post

Amusingly this shop handles tuning for several other stores in Whistler.

On a related note, the Affinity rental shop promised me a GS ski tuned to 0.75 base and 3 edge. The staff assured me it was tuned to those numbers. I skied all day and it didn't feel grippy at all--my coach confirmed it was tuned to about a 90 degree angle. So Spicy is at least honest. Affinity is a different story.

Time to get your own tools. I asked the shop to do a base grind only and added 0.5° base bevel myself with a file and shim made from aluminum sheeting (going back to 1° though, great for carving too twitchy for all around). There are two fixed angle 88° edge guide from MEC but I don't know any readily available 87° in Canada.
post #34 of 35

Our local shop has 2 and 3 degree edge guides. They're pretty common here.

post #35 of 35
By light I mean set the diamond to about 1 thousandth and set the diamond stone speed to get about 30 to 50 lines per inch. And use light pressure. Its an estimate. But very little material is taken off. And it does make a diferrence and in most cases the original deep structure remains. When people ask me to take out old structures from other shops I usually won't do it because they went too deep
Quote:
Originally Posted by SmoothRides View Post

I would not recommend frequently grinding your skis, lightly or otherwise. Once, maybe twice a season or less, but to each his own.

If you are a recreational skier you are only shortening the life span of your equipment. If you are racing you're starting from scratch after any grind with regards to getting your skis fast, and ready to race.

I don't know what you mean by lightly, but even with only one pass 1 of 2 things is happening, either you're changing, most likely convoluting, the existing structure with new structure on top, or you're taking down the structure with each pass. Either way you're changing the existing base, as well as base edge bevel, and this now needs to be corrected. If your grind is done properly in the first place the ski should be flat, smooth, and stay that way for a long time.

As far as edge machines, it all depends on what it is and who is operating it. If its a snowglide or a ceramic disc machine it will remove fractions of a mm while cutting a fresh bevel. If its a sanding belt it depends on the grit, speed, lubrication, and operator.
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