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Spring wax

post #1 of 16
Thread Starter 

What wax have you found best for wet Spring conditions?

post #2 of 16

warm temp wax?.... though I just use Doctor D's all-temp FluroMax wax.... (using the KISS principle for myself)


for the more anal racer types.... base structure has influence on the snow conditions.

post #3 of 16

For real spring conditions a warm wax will repel water and allow you to glide better in the slush, but any cold temps during the morning and it will feel like glue.  Unless you're skiing pure spring conditions go with a universal wax and mix in a soft wax to help with the wet snow.

post #4 of 16

Normally spring snow is well transformed, so cold temperatures on morning mean more or less icy snow with big crystals. That's snow where pretty much everything goes, so there's not much to bother with it.

Otherwise it depends how much you are ready to pay for this. High fluoro waxes (Swix HF8BW or HF10BW, Toko HF Yellow mixed with HF Black) with fluoro powders (Swix CeraF FC8X or FC10X with warm HVC over, or Toko Jetstream yellow) on top are definitely best option to go. But personally, I think that's way too expensive for recreational skiing, so anything with temperatures around 0c (Swix CH8 for example, or in extreme warm weather, CH10) will do.

post #5 of 16

For normal spring conditions, lots of waxes work pretty well including a Holmenkol Beta/Alpha mix and Dominator Hyper Zoom. If you meant super high water content slush, the best that I've found is Dominator Butter rub on which may only last a few runs, but works really well.

post #6 of 16

Toko Warm (Yellow).  Also a generously textured base helps a ton more than just the right wax.

post #7 of 16

Dominator had a wax called SLUSH, that works great! Don't know if it is still available.

post #8 of 16
zardoz notwax - works great in wet slushy snow and takes 30 seconds to apply.
post #9 of 16
Originally Posted by docmartin View Post

zardoz notwax - works great in wet slushy snow and takes 30 seconds to apply.


And lasts for /days/ if you put it on /under/ the warm wax of the day.

post #10 of 16

This definitely falls into the "obsessive [ex-]racer" category, but my spring wax "stack" is as follows:


I keep my skis impregnated with Swix BP99, via periodic hot-boxing at 55C/130F. BP99 is a very soft (short hydrocarbon chain) wax designed specifically for base penetration and to have a low enough melting point to be safely used in a hotbox. You do not want to ski directly on this stuff for the most part. Instead, it serves to keep the bases "open" and provides a bonding layer for subsequent waxes.


My base layer for warmer and dirty conditions is Swix MB77, which is ironed-in as its melting point is too high for safe use in a hotbox. This is a medium-hardness wax (between HC6 and HC8, hence "77") with molybdenum and low fluorocarbon content. You could almost think of it as a moly version of LF7. The idea here is to harden the surface layer of the base and provide a dirt-resistant coating. MB77 actually does reasonably well on its own in spring conditions despite being on the hard side.


For all-day spring skiing in old snow I would use a top layer mixture of 2/3 Holmenkol Hybrid FX White and 1/3 Holmenkol GW25. HFX-W is a fairly hard (for spring use) mid/high-fluoro wax, while GW-25 is a fluoro-boosting additive. The resultant mix has high fluoro content. If I'm shooting for durability then I will crayon this mixture on liberally and then iron it in via a sheet of fiberlene (the fiberlene is used to avoid "bare-backing" the iron on the ski base). I use this particular wax combination enough that I've pre-mixed a fair bit of it and moulded it into bars by pouring into old 3x20g Swix containers.


The general idea here overall is to stick with harder waxes for all-day durability, and rely instead on moly and fluoro content to deal with dirt/pollen and suction respectively. If I were racing I'd go with a softer and probably moly-based top layer to try to eek out a bit more speed at the expense of durability.

post #11 of 16

I should have added: I tend to fly by people on cat tracks in the spring. Part of it is technique (keeping skis flat and ankles loose, "pushing off" of the backsides of rollers, looking for shadows, etc) but the preparation I described above is VERY fast in wet/dirty spring snow. I don't know that it's worth the time and effort it takes to maintain that sort of base prep, but I do that as a form of self-therapy anyway...

post #12 of 16

Holmenkohl Beta Yellow mixed with a bit of Graphite seems to be best for Tahoe.

post #13 of 16

I read somewhere that base structure is more important than wax in slushy spring snow. Big, open base structure.

post #14 of 16
post #15 of 16

More complete base structure information: http://www.tognar.com/base_structure_tips_ski_snowboard.html

post #16 of 16


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