here's the rub on manufactures information........
finishing a ski for the retail rack in the ski shop, and finishing the ski for the best on hill performance are not mutually exclusive in terms of design goals of the manufacturer. they may not all end up accomplishing that criteria.
there are degrees of accuracy of finish depending on ski design, production methods, materials used, education and quality of training, and skill set of varied human beings that are involved in the process. also humidity, temperature, and how the skis were transported from the factory, etc, etc, etc.......are additional factors that the manufacturer sometimes has little control over.
what the manufacturer say the specs are and what they really end up being do not always match. see comments above.
skis that ski well out of the wrapper are possible, however because they have been done in large batches on machines that can have quirks and ghosts in the machinery, it is more common to find skis which can have improved performance by properly shaping the sidewall, base edge, side edge, and then finishing for your conditions.
so where does that leave you Eagles Pdx? you still have to get the shop to fix what they have done. telling them what K2 recommends is probably irrelevant seeing that they have already proven that they are not looking at their own work that closely. if you think that it will make a difference, Max Capacity gave you the target in post #2 for any recreational ski that will work for any conditions in our universe, 1 degree base with a 2 degree side. the edges should feel super smooth to the touch of your skin, and you should be able to "peel" a little fingernail from contact point at the tip to contact point at the tail. so, if you can get your shop to produce a 1 base with a 2 side and a smooth, sharp, finish, you skis will work great.
if not, we will leave the lights on for you when you get to Tahoe!