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Good Ski to Learn Moguls

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 



I have been sking for a few years...still consider myself an intermediate skier.  My skis are Blizzard Magnum 8.1 TIs in 172 which I have had for a few years.  I have been skiing almost exclusively groomers the last few years and I think the skis I have pretty good for that.  I have progressed to blacks and double blacks that I can do ok as long as they are not bumped up.


Anyway, I went skiing at Sugardbush last week and had a blast trying (stress the word trying) to ski the bumps and a little tree skiing.  Super fun but man I felt like a complete newbie as if I had never skied before (Castlerock kicked my ass:)). That said, I kept doing run after run on the bumps and I started getting a little better.  I did a moderately bumped up Stein's Run three times and it too was a blast.


My question is should I look at getting some skis that may be better in the bumps than my Blizzards if I want to focus more and more on bumps/trees?  The groomers are just getting a little boring and I am not a speed guy in any event.  If you think I should be another pair of skis, what would you recommend to add to my quiver for bumps/trees?


I dont know a whole lot about different types of skis but I think my Blizzards are heavy and stiff which is probably great for groomers but not so great for trees and bumps...is that correct?  Maybe I am overthing this and I should just keep progressing on the Blizzards and look for additional skis after I get better.


I Ski the East and I am about 6' 172.


Thanks for any advice!

post #2 of 9

Softer flexing skis that don't want to "full on carve" all the time are definitely easier in bumps.  That said, bump skiing fundamentals are the same regardless of what skis you're on -- i.e., stiff carving skis force you to be more precise and will probably instill better fundamental movement patterns in you from the start.


That said, Blizzard Bushwackers.  I'm your size, I ski 'em in the 173cm length.  They make bump skiing easy in that getting out of balance won't cause the ski to "run away" from you and the early-rise tip just rides up and over bumps.  Before running out and buying a pair, I'd suggest demo-ing.  They are really soft -- I can definitely "overdrive" them.

post #3 of 9

Not too many genuine mogul skis still in production that are affordable.  Some folks even use older GS skis, ones on the softer side like a womans model.  There are still some Dynastar Twisters around though.  I think I heard they aren't making any more of these for next season though..

post #4 of 9
Thread Starter 

Thanks for the replies.  I am correct that my Magnum TIs are not the best for bumps/trees?

post #5 of 9

Do yourself a favor: Take a bump lesson or better yet, a clinic.   


A lesson won't get you much, maybe some pointers, but a clinic (4 or more lessons) will force you to ski the bumps and should give you drills to practice on your own.


I'm of the firm opinion that a good bump skier can do them on any ski.  It's a poor musician who blames his instrument!


Save your $$$ on new skis and put it into a lesson, you'll be far better off!


New skies MAY only improve your ability a bit, but a clinic/lesson will improve your overall skiing.


I'm on week 6 of an 8 week clinic and the drills, instruction, etc. have improved my skiing far beyond the bumps.

post #6 of 9

Perhaps BushMogulMaster could recommend an instructor or clinic at his resort?  I see he hasn't been on in a couple of years though, might answer a PM might not?

post #7 of 9

I'd point out that a ski that's strong in bumps may not be strong in trees. Former wants narrow as possible, little sidecut, fairly symmetrical. Latter wants wide as comfortable for float, more sidecut for ice you may encounter, and prolly a bit more stiffness, although you don't want a beefy ski. 


That said, the Bushwacker is a nice compromise. Something like a Fischer Big Stix would also work well. But in all honesty, the 8.1 is not bad in bumps, although too narrow to be effective in trees with soft snow; you might want to think about lessons too. Level III I know rocks ridiculously tight bumps on 184 Kendos. All in the technique.

post #8 of 9

Good advice here from the others. Especially about getting instruction. If you can hook up with some good bumpers, follow their lines all day (as best as you can - I like to have them follow me for three turns before checking speed). Also, find the softest bumps you can find. Everything is easier when the bumps are soft. With that said, don't get discouraged if that run you rocked yesterday eludes you when the snow firmed up. Sharpen your edges and work harder.


Regarding skis, I like a slalom cut on my skis. While Beyond is correct about narrow skis being better for pure bumps and wider for the trees, a mid width tight radius ski can work OK for both. It might be cheaper to buy a used slalom race ski (they seem to go cheap - especially without bindings and light bindings are also cheap and effective for bumps) for the bump days and a powder ski for the soft snow in the trees.


Others may disagree but I prefer a light setup for bumps and trees. But I'm old and like to ski slow (how do I follow the zipper line that slow? Exaggerated knees.).


I demoed Hart bump skis earlier this year. I was surprised how stiff they felt and how well they edged. It was a very pleasant feel even if I was feeling a bit of edge catchiness. Given that experience and how well my Volkl Racetiger SLs work in the firm bumps, I'm not a believer that softer is better for the bumps. In sweet soft bumps, I don't think the skis matter at all (as long as they are light!!) but things get more critical as the snow hardens.


Have fun!



post #9 of 9

I have a bright orange pair of Olin Ballet 150's that are just about perfect for learning moguls.

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