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Waxing Guide

post #1 of 22
Thread Starter 
Hi Guys,

What an awsome forum I must say, you guys seem so knowledgable and helpful.

I was just wondering if there was a good guide to waxing any where.

I think I know the basics of

Clean Base
Iron on New Wax
Scrape Off
Brush Out

But would love to learn more details like when do I cork polish, or what type of wax to I put on when, do I layer Graphite then Tokyo 3 then Flourine?

Yours in ignorance!

Stuart :
post #2 of 22

Welcome to Epicski, Glad you found us.

There have been lots of threads regarding waxing and tuning, The opinions are a different as the skiers.

do a search in epicski under ski gear discussions with the key word waxing or tuning and you will get a whole mess of disucssions about waxing.

here is one
post #3 of 22
Welcome Stuart,

I think Gonzo is the one to talk to about waxing - he does a lot of his own maintenance work. I bet Gonzo even does his own bikini line.

post #4 of 22
I was worried you were going to do a crap joke about Gonzo Waxing lyrical about everything.

The only waxing I know about is for the palms of my hands. Hair seems to grow really fast there.
Does anyone else have this problem?

post #5 of 22
Welcome to the family. As dchan said there are many good sites and threads for waxing. If you'd like a step by step procedure take a look at my wife's my website. When there, hit <links> then hit <bob's ski page> and open the article I wrote on 'how to wax and tune your skis'.
bobs ski page In it I tell you what you need from thestore, from home, step by step instructions and how to get out of trouble for using your wife's good iron! There is so much to waxing, but this is a very good start.
post #6 of 22

You are fast bearing out long held suspicions that the UK types can flog that old dead horse with whips of detail, detail & more detail.

If you race I can understand that the loving care and detail ......... though you did not mention structuring .. . This level of detail on dedicated race skis, where the fluro will not be skiied off completley will certainly buy time in the gates. In this case the skis are carried to the top and at the bottom, they get banded and carried back for the next run.

Those fluro drops are quite expensive as a final rub on ...... but they are gone by the bottom. I do this on my kids race skis but would never consider it for mine. Just using a good fluro wax (for conditions) and a can of Swix F-4 in my pocket for a quick after lunch renewal usually seems to do it.
post #7 of 22
Thread Starter 
Good help all ready.

Didn't some one say once its all in the detail(or was that the devils in the detail) - My excuse is if I can't Ski that well at least I can tune the ski's up well

I have been using Toko System 3 Wax but the more I have been reading the less sure I am.......

What I do at the moment, is to clean off the old wax (Do I need to do this every time or can I Hot Wax on top of old wax?)

I then mix Yellow and Red for Europe or use Just Red for Canada and Iron it on. I go up and down a couple of times then leave it dry for a few hours.

I then Scrape it off and then brush with a nylon Brush front Tip to Tail.

After this should I be polishing whats left with my Corck Block? Should I just polish or shousld I polish then brush again?

I think - that flouro wax is just for racing and doesn't last long so I shouldnt use it? - Or have I got it completely wrong and I should be using Toko Flouro wax instead of their system 3?

But I maybe should use a graphite wax for the first layer of the waxing process, Iron this on then scrape and brush before putting system 3 on. Then maybe polish system 3 when its on with a cork.

Any advice Guys?

Stuart :

<FONT COLOR="#800080" SIZE="1">[ December 19, 2001 07:51 AM: Message edited 1 time, by schford ]</font>
post #8 of 22
Get the Swix Alpine wax manual. I believe Toko has a manual too. You can get one at Tognar Toolworks: Also all the tools you will need.
post #9 of 22
Afternoon Stuart and welcome,

Watch the Karate Kid part 1.
Hope this helps.

post #10 of 22
Thread Starter 
Wax On

Wax Off


[img]smile.gif[/img] [img]tongue.gif[/img] : :
post #11 of 22
The floro wax is a bit more expensive but not big $$$. The floro drops ARE expensive, itty bitty plastic bottles that yeild about four or five applications ....... each "application" lasts about one run.

I let the skis cool for about thirty minutes and then use a flat plastic windshield scraper to do a fast scraping. This is followed by a "buff" using (US term ???) a Scotch-Brite kitchen pad ...... plastic steel wool basically ...... sponge on one side and the abrasive plasticized "wool" on the other.
post #12 of 22
If you're just out there to have fun, forget fluoros. It is racerhead stuff. Any of the "universal" waxes by Swix, Toko, Dominator would be fine. If you have black bases, get some graphite wax (warm and cold). Put that on for the first coat of your final waxing. If you feel the need, buy some cold and warm hydrocarbon wax if you know what the weather will be when you get to your destination(crystal ball?).
Fluoros require more ventilation when applying.... forget them and go skiing.
post #13 of 22
well yes DB (and Stewart), I do my own waxing, though I'm not as proficient or fanatical (take your pick) as some folks in here, like Jonathan Shefftz or Phil Pugliese... Phil, don't you have a Montana grinder at home?

I think the simplest, most straightforward way to do home waxing is the method I use.

1. Scrape your bases as a first take on removing all wax remnants and surface dirt.

2. Wipe bases down with citrus-based cleaner that is made to cut through wax and grease.

3. Let bases dry.

4. Heat iron to the point where the wax melts and smokes a TINY bit. If it's a steam iron, cover the surface with aluminum foil. If it's a simple waxing iron (like my SKS), you don't need to do anything but plug it in and wait for the heat indicator light to go off.

5. Drip wax along the base of the ski by using one hand to hold the wax bar against iron, and using the other hand to hold the iron a few inches off the base. Use less wax than your instincts might be telling you to use. Watch the progress on your wax bar! You don't want to burn your fingers on the iron surface.

6. Iron the drippings into a smooth coat on the base, continually working the iron over the drippings until it becomes a clear liquid. Move down the ski from shovel to tail in this fashion.

7. Let the wax cool. Scrape it off with a high-quality LEXAN scraper. Toko scrapers are widely available and made from a good quality plastic that keeps an edge. As with waxing, work from shovel to tail.

8. Remove excess with either a Scotchbrite pad, or a bristle brush.

9. If you're really finicky, buff with a cork. This really isn't necessary since you already heated the wax with the iron. The cork buffing is intended to help rub-on waxes penetrate the base... so it's redundant on a hot-waxed ski.
post #14 of 22
What gonzo said.
post #15 of 22
I'll question the cork buff step. Most of my racing friends say that buffing a smooth surface on the wax is no longer desirable because it can cause suction (they race in the Pacific Northwest which has wet snow). Stop at step 8 & you'll be fine.

PS - A warning on citrus cleaners. Read the ingredients carefully. Many places sell cleaners that look like they are citrus based but are actually petroleum based with citrus scent added. These are not good for your base.

<FONT COLOR="#800080" SIZE="1">[ December 20, 2001 10:25 AM: Message edited 2 times, by Rio ]</font>
post #16 of 22
What they all said! Getting the old wax off? Not necessary unless it looks whitish. it is true that dirt gets in there after awhile. This depends on you and the skiing conditons you encounter. If you want to add warm tmep wax and scrape before it cools to get the old wax and dirt out each time you wax, it's up to you. Most of the time this is done at the beginning of the season or at the end of the last one.

End up by polishing with a soft cloth like an old t-shirt. it's like polishing your shoes. The cork is used as described above in another post here. most of this I discussed in my wax and tune article on my website. Where I leave off is where one's personnal preferences begin. This would depend on one's skiing conditions and areas. Often one knows what works best for his or her area.
post #17 of 22

For a good guide on waxing (and race waxing) basics, check out

The Dominator Wax Co. makes very good waxes and takes the time to teach us about wax principles, do's and don'ts. Have fun.

Rock'n Doc
post #18 of 22
Thread Starter 
Thank You All.

I leave for Canada Saturday morning with Skis in fine fettle thanks to you all.

Good Sking peeps!

post #19 of 22
I was told by a World Cup race tech,

"Never, ever, ever use a base cleaner."

They use the hot scrape method.

post #20 of 22
Thread Starter 
I thought you only had to use the hot scrape method if you had dirty wax / bases?

Sort of twice a season touch?
post #21 of 22
Hot scraping would be the "original" beginning wax step before citrus cleaners came into use. So every time you wax, you start out with cleaning by dripping on some warm temp range wax and scraping off. Some use this method instead of citrus cleaner, the idea being that citrus cleaners dry out the base.
post #22 of 22
I was told buy the guys at SWIX. The only time that base cleaner should be used is in the preperation of brand new skis. It will take that crap coat of factory wax and any oils out of the ski. Other then that you don't need the stuff. I would also be vary leery about using some citrus stuff on my skis. It's not needed. a hot scrape is all you need.
Instead of buffing with a cork we "racerheads" like to use brushes,ie. nylon, horse hair, brass. A cork is good to apply topical powders and other waxs that are not hot waxed in. But this doesn't matter if your not racing.

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