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Bases burned, what to do. - Page 2

post #31 of 51

Here's a thought, the GF put's the little candle jars in the oven at low temp for a few minutes. THen thewax comes right out.

 

May be do that on a piece of foil ???

post #32 of 51

I use boiling water to clean my tuning gear and it works well, which mainly sees hertel super hot sauce which has a relatively lower melting point.

This will get the bulk of it, especially the fine material off the brushes.  There will be some residue most visible on scrapers since that packed/caked on wax, but the residue will be softened enough to be wiped off.

 

I use a electric hot water kettle to get the water to full boil (which is from my kitchen for tea and beverages), then you can then pour over all your tools in a bucket to let it sit there.  Then dump and repeat as needed with more hot water for rinses as the water temp will drop.

 

It's a bit of a procedure, so I don't do it every tuneup time.  Just once in awhile.

 

(P.S., hot water and bucket also used to take off my ski pole grips when I needed to slightly cut down my poles)


Edited by raytseng - 4/4/13 at 12:19pm
post #33 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkiMangoJazz View Post

I wonder if this is an indication of me not scraping and brushing enough of the wax out.  Why would there be so much wax otherwise?  Strange that the inside edge areas, which as you say get the most load, would do this.  Perhaps I leave too much wax in the base, than the friction brings it to the surface.

 

My wax removal method is a good scraping with a sharp plastic scraper.

One vigorous pass scrubbing with a back and forth motion with a high quality brass brush (different than my cleaning brush.)

Three long strokes with the same brush.  All of this followed by brushing off the powder with a dry paint brush.

 

One vigorous pass scrubbing with a back and forth motion with a high quality horsehair brush.

Three long strokes with the same brush.

Sounds like you are brushing it out.

Two things I don't get. 1 is the "back and forth scrubbing" with the brush. I've never seen anyone do this.

2 is the paint brush for removing powder. It's hard to tell how much powder you're talking about, but if you brush it out, most of the powder should already be on the floor. A lot of this powder could be from the brush itself, one reason unidirectional strokes are usually used I think. Also, you can easily get rid of the surface powder on the brush by using the short side of the scraper or some other object. It's quick.

 

For cleaning a brush, I've also heard of using a clean hard snow bank. Sit the brush in it  a bit, then brush the snow bank. I've never tried it, but there it is.

Also, for getting rid of the white, you can go to fibertex, (aka Scothbrite), "brushing" - scrubbing in that case is fine followed by unidirectional to get rid of it. Start courser - the Maroon and end up with the White or grey ultrafine.

 

Here's a list of Scotchbrite grades on pdf sheet. I believe the green is slighlty coarser than the Maroon 7447.

http://academic.evergreen.edu/projects/biophysics/technotes/fabric/finish.pdf

 

Brushing the wax out is better for the ski I've been told then leaving it and letting the snow scrape it off when you ski. Apparently, if you just leave it, it pulls out the wax that's in the base. I never thought it really mattered so often I just gave it a quick scrape. Maybe primoz will comment, but that info I got from a former wcup tech.

post #34 of 51

Tog, I use my rotor brush in a back and forth motion to get most of the wax off,followed by 3 runs tips to tail. I know I don't remove all the wax because I can see some built up on the metal edges.

 

I don't worry about getting all the wax off the base. what you don't get off now, will ski off in a run or two.

 

Don't over think this.

 

Oh, BTW, I haven't used my combi brush in years. I just keep putting wax in the base 99% of the time I use Dominator Hyperzoom,

 

This past satruday, after skiing, I used the ski visions base flattener tools, file then Med stone, then put some dominator graphite 14F+ wax on for the first time. Scraped and brushed as normal. Had a great day on the spring snow yesterday.

post #35 of 51

I've never understood why people use a ski visions flattener tool with regularity. If you're filling ptex then scraping it off I get it, but what exactly are you doing with the flattener? Are you using it for structuring?

SMJ is not using a rotobrush afaik, but a hand brush. Brushing forward then back with one will release a lot of the wax powder held in the brush.
 

post #36 of 51
Thread Starter 

I will reconsider the back and forth Tog, but even after a straight tip to tail brush there is a layer of powder left on the ski.  I brush it off with the paint brush to keep it off of the brush on the next pass.

post #37 of 51
Well, the main thing is, if that grey is brushing off, don't worry about it.
post #38 of 51

There remains the possibility that at some point too much heat was used on the base, and that the "pores" or spaces have closed up, thus the base does not absorb much wax anymore. That's base burn by iron.

I've heard of this. How likely is the possibility?
 

post #39 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by raytseng View Post

I use boiling water to clean my tuning gear and it works well, which mainly sees hertel super hot sauce which has a relatively lower melting point.

This will get the bulk of it, especially the fine material off the brushes.  There will be some residue most visible on scrapers since that packed/caked on wax, but the residue will be softened enough to be wiped off.

 

I use a electric hot water kettle to get the water to full boil (which is from my kitchen for tea and beverages), then you can then pour over all your tools in a bucket to let it sit there.  Then dump and repeat as needed with more hot water for rinses as the water temp will drop.

 

It's a bit of a procedure, so I don't do it every tuneup time.  Just once in awhile.

 

(P.S., hot water and bucket also used to take off my ski pole grips when I needed to slightly cut down my poles)

 

Tried it and it works fine! Thanks!

post #40 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkiMangoJazz View Post

Blizzard Magnum 8.0 CA skis, over 700,000 vertical feet on them this year.  Bases are white going from the edge to about almost 1/3 of the way in under foot, and less as it moves towards the tail. Inside edges (I have a L. & R. ski due to a plate under one to compensate for Leg Length Discrepancy.)

 

Hot waxed these skis a lot too, close to 30 times, but don't use too hot an iron or keep it on the ski without a light upwards pull.

 

What can I do?  Just keep waxing and using them, or is there some way to restore them?  Will a stone grind eventually take care of it?


Here is the true answer.  One must watch the entire video to understand.

post #41 of 51
Thread Starter 

Sorry Jacque I'm not going to spend 35 minutes watching your video to cull something from it.  I know how to tune skis.  If you have something to say I'd love to hear it, but simply posting a how-to and saying the answer is in it really doesn't cut it.

post #42 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkiMangoJazz View Post

Sorry Jacque I'm not going to spend 35 minutes watching your video to cull something from it.  I know how to tune skis.  If you have something to say I'd love to hear it, but simply posting a how-to and saying the answer is in it really doesn't cut it.


Mango Jazz, you are always a stick in the mud!  Don't say I did not try to help.  As this is a public form my hope is others can be helped.  Be good now Jazz.

post #43 of 51

Oh yea, BTW the info is way to much to type!   Besides, one needs to SEE & HEAR to learn this one.  Be good!

post #44 of 51
Thread Starter 

Considering this is an old thread, your post seemed more self-promoting than actually offering assistance.  I'm having those skis ground by Mike Desantis in September.

post #45 of 51

Jacques' video is well within conventional practice. 

 

Interesting takeaways:
   - he bevels the edges into the plastic before he scrapes.  Alpinord had a thread on this, iirc.

   - he pressures the sides of the scraper (instead of centering pressure) while he's working on the shovel and tail.   

   - he flat-runs a diamond stone on the plastic/edge interface
  -  he does a progression of metal brushes (hard steel - soft steel - bronze - brass) with a coarse fiber pad in between the steels.

post #46 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkiMangoJazz View Post

Considering this is an old thread, your post seemed more self-promoting than actually offering assistance.  I'm having those skis ground by Mike Desantis in September.


     Yes, I promote my ski shop videos where it is pertinent.   I do it to SHARE information to those who seek it.  There is no money in it for me as you see no adds on my videos.  As for an "old thread", well.........if one searches on an engine to learn something the thread is likely to come up in the results, so old threads do not die or go away.  I might have posted this video in many other post here as well if I saw it as being pertinent.  Be good Jazz and grind away!

post #47 of 51
Thread Starter 

Sorry Jacques.  Peace.  My bad.

post #48 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkiMangoJazz View Post

Considering this is an old thread,


Here is what I mean Jazz.  Here is a search I did on an engine I don't use.  It's called Bing.  
 

post #49 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkiMangoJazz View Post

Sorry Jacques.  Peace.  My bad.


It Okay.  You started a good thread.  You are not "bad".  Peace be with you always!  beercheer.gif   Get ready for another season!  ski.gif

post #50 of 51

Is that 'zoom box' a hot box?

post #51 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by cantunamunch View Post

Is that 'zoom box' a hot box?


Yes it is.  I can load 12 pair with brakes open easy.  I can heat up to 158 F if I want to, but normally go to 150 F

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