Originally Posted by C.B.
There is really no depth adjustment per se. The blade is the only point that touches the sidewall; there are no guide pins or wheels on the SVST. Do you think it could be the makeup of the plastic Blizzard uses? The sidewall itself is "wavy", kinda looks like a piece of wood that has saw marks.
Like I said, my Rosi peeled like butter.
Race Blizzards, or all montains? Reason I ask is that the world cups have a "2nd metal edge" directly above the side edge. This can cause issues when first beginning to plane.
The depth setting Atomicman refers to involves those 2 little screws on top of the blade housing (I own this tool also, and I certainly agree with Amans endorsement) If you loosen these screws you'll find that you can move the blade either closer to the side edge or away from it. This is not for depth. You can also rotate the metal cylinder which holds the blade. This is your depth setting. If you rotate it so the blade is perpendicular to the side edge, it will cut at it's maximum depth (DON"T DO THIS!!). If you rotate so its more parallel to the side edge, it is at its minimum and wont cut at all. Find the area in between these two extremes (maybe 30-40 degrees?, just a guess...), tighten, and begin with light, smooth passes at first, though you never want to bear down on it! This can take practice, maybe start on an older pair you don't care about too much. Stop when the blade is cuts up to the edge.
Hope this helps