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Update on Atomic 10.20 and binding related issues...

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
As some of you have already read, I just recently purchased the Atomic 10.20 in a 180, along with the 310 Race/Race bindings. I'm 5'11", and weigh a measly 135lbs.

At first, I was having trouble getting used to these boards, as they are very different than my old K2 Merlin V's at 198cm. The Atomics require a much more precise control of the edges through turns.

Impressions now that I have 5 days on them:

I love them. I am finally noticing how my weight does have an effect on how these things turn. I think they may even be a bit long, at 180. Short, edge-to-edge turns are done the same as before, because I'm not really utilizing the curved edge of the ski here. But in short turns where I would like to use the edge, I'm finding that I need to be going a certain speed for this to work for me. These skis really need to be set up for a turn, which involves a very deliberate weighting of the downhill ski. And for me, this can only be done over 12-15mph. I don't have the mass to properly push the ski at slower speeds, and need the combined effort of my body weight AND G-forces generated at turn-in to get the ski to carve as it was designed to do.

When I get this far, however, this ski rocks! They are able to carve a much tighter turn than my Merlin's ever could. But they also require that I make minor adjustments with my foot throughout the turn, instead of just letting the ski go where it wants to. My Merlin's felt like they could read my mind, whereas I need to tell the Atomics what to do with more authoritah.

I can also lean my body over much more than before, to the point where I feel like I'm about to fall over. I lost an edge once this weekend at speed and it was interesting trying to save these things. Which leads me to my next point. These skis suck at speed when they are not on edge. They really do not like to go straight(like when in a tuck on flats). They are very squirrelly when they're flat, and need to be turning(even slightly) to become stable and insure confidence in me that they'll go faster.

They are OK through crud, but don't have the dampening that the K2's did with the Piezoelectrics.

So I'm still learning how to ski these and probably will be for a while. On the binding issue with trying to fit it to my boot properly:

I removed the screw underneath the ball of my foot. This gave me access to the major adjustment for boot size. It allows movement in 10mm increments. The screw at the rear is then used for minor adjustment. I'm still not sure about the toe up/down adjustment and so will be taking these into the shop this week.

Sorry for the length here, but I'm stoked about these new boards. I'm learning the differences between these and my old skis, and thought some of you may be interested in the technical transformation involved.

Can anybody give similar experiences in transitioning to the Atomics?

Thanks for reading folks...

post #2 of 12
Thread Starter 
BTW, this was a follow-up to the "What size for the K2 Mod X Pro" thread below:
post #3 of 12
I am slowly getting used to these skis. I ski the 10.20 in a 190cm length--I weigh about 200lbs. I was previously skiing on a set of 152cm Saloman AxeCleavers (Supercarver), so turning 190cm is definitely more difficult.

I think that they do have exceptional edge grip, but I am not used to turning them yet. I also love their stability at speed. However, I did find that they do NOT like being skied flat. I almost fell several times on those long runs at the bottom of mountains that connect other runs and then lead to a chair. The run was nearly flat, w/lots of little hills and all the skis wanted to do was go on edge...

I am still skiing on the skis w/the 1deg base, 3degree side, however I will move to 1deg base/2deg side when I get my next major tuneup.

I am pretty stoked to be on these skis, but I think that it would have been better if I lived near some real mountains (I live in VA) so that I could get the most out these skis.
post #4 of 12
hrbngr, I would absolutely recommend AGAINST tuning your 10.20's (or any atomic) with anything but a 3* edge bevel. Been there, done that, and any authority about atomic on this forum will support this. Ski tech's always ask me if I'm sure I want 3 degrees, and living in VA, I have to believe you would be happier with sharper edges. Consider detuning the tip and tail if you haven't already, and possibly beveling the 1* base to 1.5* about 6-8" back from both the tip and tail. It's easy to keep sharp and helps release and begin your turns more easily (theoretically), but I think it works.
post #5 of 12
Thread Starter 
Does anyone know how to completely disassemble the Atomic binding...or at least get to the mounting screws? The genius that mounted them to the plate didn't screw them in enough, so there is a slight gap beneath the toe piece of one ski. And returning them to the mounting shop is not an option.


post #6 of 12
Simpler than it looks...unscrew the piece directly under your instep area, which exposes the "slideable" steel tracks. I would mark the track where the adjustment hole is, slide out the heel, and the toe piece will slide out by holding the toe lever over as if you're adjusting the fore/aft binding adjustment on the hill. It's pretty easy, I was in the same boat. Got a good price on my setup, but one of the heel pieces had a loose screw, along with the tech who assembled them. Hope this helps.
post #7 of 12
Thread Starter 

Thanks. How about the hard(yellow) versus soft(green) settings. There is an adjustment on top of the toe piece in front of the height adjustment screw. It takes a flat head driver. Mine's set on hard. What does this adjust...the amount of force required for a rearward falling toe release?


post #8 of 12
I've been on my 10.20's since last February. I'm 5'8" 180lbs and my ski length is 180cm.

I honestly don't have a problem running flat. Have any of you ever had an alignment? This is definately a thoroughbred ski, it does take some getting used to. It takes a precise pilot, not much room for error. Minor alignment issues could cause big handling problems.

It's not suprising the Atomic's don't seem as damp as the K2's. This ski is definately not damp. You have to anticipate what it is going to do when you push it. It takes time to learn how new skis perform. I'm just now comfortable on mine, and I do love them.

Another thing I've learned is you have to stay centered. Seems like the sweet spot is not that forgiving, high performance skis are that way. If you drive the tip hard, the tail will skid. If you get lazy and sit back, they will run out from under you. Drive your turns hard with a lot of lateral motion, but don't let your skis get ahead of you.

When you get them dialed in, you can run them as fast as you dare.
post #9 of 12
Man. I guess it's just me but I found the 10.20 so much more solid feeling than the MODX. The 10.20 is probably more demanding of appropriate input but, Jeez, it's smooth, fast and responsive. Maybe not quite as versatile as the MODX but here in the PNW I would much rather spend my hard earned lift ticket on one.

post #10 of 12
Arby, what are you using for bindings on your 10.20's? I demoed with the "demo" bindings which I believe are 8 or 10 mm more lift than the racerace 412's I had installed on mine. I can't really recall a big "on snow" difference although some on this forum suggested the lower lift for pow and bumps. The xentrix are the recommended binding, but I'm MORE than happy with my set-up. Just curious as to what you think. thanks.
post #11 of 12
My binding is a RaceRace 4-12. It does say Xentrix 4-12 on it, but it has no additional lift. It has 3 varizone positions.
I guess it is an odd set-up. Basically it's a RaceRace 4-12 with an Xentrix paint job.
post #12 of 12
I've got the 412 set up too. I don't think I get enough stability out of my 180s. Maybe not stiff enough. My 188 BIGs are just about right though. A day on the fat boys is always a better day to start with though !
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