Originally Posted by davluri
what quality would you say makes it possible to see better when you ski in and out of dark shadow and full light? Cycling is involved in this visibility issue also. It is the purpose of reduced contrast to see when the light suddenly changes. Don't know if I'm right, of course, it's how I usually think of it. Seeing in the sun and then the dark shade is enhanced by increasing contrast in the shade area, there is no way to brighten the shadows and darken the sunny, or is that doable with the rose or warm brown. I think it's why regular driving sunglasses don't work. they don't do anything positive in the shadows.
Hi Davluri - your question (if I am reading your intend correctly) relates to the way the eye sees in different lighting conditions. In particular we have three general 'zones' if you will that relate to the amount of light entering the eye: Photopic - bright light, color and high contrast oriented, Scotopic - dark and very low light, contrast and movement oriented, and Mespoic - the 'in-between' vision between photopic and scotopic, twilight/half-light conditions, very low contrast, reduced color perception, reduced visual acuities.
In most daylight/bright light conditions, the eye is able to compensate for rapid changes in luminosity relatively well on it's own - such as tree skiing. A good quality lens that is neither too light for the bright sun, nor too dark for shade and shadow reduces the extremes that the eye needs to compensate for, which is why a quality goggle lens can be helpful. But again, the tint color can be almost as important as the density. Remember that on snow, even under modest overcast conditions, there is a large amount of blue light scattered both from above but also below off the snow's surface. A warm goggle tint will help to attenuate those frequencies most effectively.
The same applies to things such as cycling and driving. Warm colored lenses help to enhance the transition from sun to shade and back, whereas a grey base will bring the overall intensity of light down, but still allows blue light through unattenuated. This can add to eyestrain with many people, and is why brown/amber/warm hued lens tints can be beneficial in those scenarios. Does that address your thoughts?
Originally Posted by dookey67
while not lens related, can anybody with a pair of I/OX tell me the dimensions of the goggles? My glasses are 5 5/8 inches wide and 1 6/8 inches tall... For comparison, the Bolle X9's I mostly use are roughly 6.6 inches wide and 2 5/8 inches tall. They are a bit snug, but they work. Thanks for those who may take the time to measure the dimensions of their I/OX!
The I/Ox is designed for medium-large fit. It's approx 18% larger than the 4 year old I/O frame overall. In the optical world, we use metric to measure frames, and to that end I can make a few quick measurements for you of the new I/Ox goggle. All measurements are taken with the goggle sitting flat on the table, and not under any tension or pressure. REMEMBER: These goggles flex. They will fit differently when worn, and notable differences can be seen even in the same goggle frame from one face to another. Add to that the infinite number of possible frames styles that can be worn underneath and it is impossible to know how well a given model will fit without physically trying it on. Preferably with a helmet as well if that is how you ski.
Interior width - measured at largest horizontal opening in face foam:
Interior height - measured at largest vertical opening in face foam:
Lens depth - narrowest distance measured from rear lens surface to outside edge of face foam (this distance will be smaller when worn due to compression of the foam against wearers face!)
30mm deep - I estimate that when worn, the foam will typically compress approximately 5-7mm and shorten the distance between the face and the inner lens surface.
Truly the best way to determine if this is the right goggle to you, is to try it on in person - as worn with eyeglasses on, helmet, balaclava, skull cap etc. as well. If you're in or near the Salt Lake area (or will be this season), I'd be very happy to help out any way I can.