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Tech says he doesn't want to grind a brand-new ski.

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 

Hello,

 

My tech called me up and said he was impressed with Nordica's factory base grind, and therefore didn't want to proceed with a machine tune I already paid for (the whole point was to set bevels on brand new skis).  So I called him back and said fine, check the bevels and if base was already my spec, just set side and do wax job.  Then he replies saying he will still restructure base, and only do side bevels.

 

Well, what exactly is going to happen to my bases if the tech "structures" the bases without touching the bases or bevelling?

 

Am I going to be dealing with exposed steel edges on the middle side of the base edge, a convex (obtuse) base bevel, or some other problem?

post #2 of 10

No...but why would you bother...if Nordica did a good job from the factory (which is not unusual for high end skis), just ski them....they might need wax, thats it.  You might find that Nordica actually knows more then you, when it comes to ideal bevels etc for their own skis....

 

Low end skis, usually need a tune before skiing them...but high end ones, often come great from the box.

post #3 of 10
Thread Starter 

Well, good.  So I'm either going to have gratuitous structure, or what I paid for.

 

I'm sure Nordica does know more than me about bevels for their skis, which is why I chose 0.5 that Nordica recommends.  Of course, I know the side bevels are NOT 3, which is what I wanted there.  Also, I read here on epic that race skis come 0/0.

 

It's water over the dam now, but skidude, you know what you're talking about so I will consider foregoing any future new-ski grinds.

post #4 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlugBootBlues View Post

Well, good.  So I'm either going to have gratuitous structure, or what I paid for.

 

I'm sure Nordica does know more than me about bevels for their skis, which is why I chose 0.5 that Nordica recommends.  Of course, I know the side bevels are NOT 3, which is what I wanted there.  Also, I read here on epic that race skis come 0/0.

 

It's water over the dam now, but skidude, you know what you're talking about so I will consider foregoing any future new-ski grinds.

Dont get me wrong...some skis need it, and I was assuming you were just on regular skis here...but if seeing your other thread...if these are the SG skis...well, then yeah, you might need to set all the bevels up before skiing them.

post #5 of 10

I have never come across any ski that has had perfectly correct geometry right out of the wrapper (let alone the geometry that I want).  That doesn't necessarily mean that the ski isn't ski-able, but I always perform a full tune on all my new skis.  I want a ski to put its "best foot forward" on its maiden run and not be questioning whether something I'm feeling could possibly be due to tuning issues.

post #6 of 10

Skis used to be shipped in boxes stacked with extra p-tex in the base higher than the edges (base high) so they didn't damage the skis under them.  That was why we used to do a fair amount of pretuning before skiing a new ski.  Now they come individually shrink wrapped.  I'm betting none of them still have that extra base,  No need for that added expense, and as a result, no grind necessary.  I still do some light filing and use a stone to remove any burrs before waxing a brand new pair.

post #7 of 10

Plugbootblues,

 

 

  Almost all race skis come with a nice pattern, I'm reluctant to grind them too!! That being said, they also often arrive in the states with excessive cupping or convexness near the tip and tail especially, due to the fact that they weren't fully "cured" after being manufactured before the pattern was put on. Also, not all race stock skis come 0/90!! 

 

  Therefore, what I and many others like to do before deciding ANYTHING is examine the skis CLOSELY, with a good true bar and possibly a tool to measure base & side bevels (although a trained eye will be able to see striations along the edge from any ceramic sharpening the factory may have done...if such striations are absent, they likely haven't been touched). Also look for anything anomalous such as double-camber, separating sidewalls, etc...

 

   If everything looks cool, you're good to go!  Usually the grinds from the factory for sl&gs are pretty good:))

 

 

  P.s.  A little concavity near the tip on sl or gs is probably ok AS LONG AS it's confined to the middle 1/3rd of the ski (not near either edge) and isn't present in the fore-body or underfoot:))

post #8 of 10

Plugbootblues,

 

 

   Also, you might want to consider a new tech...

post #9 of 10

New race skis at the begining of the year.  Other than waxing nothing done during the season.

 

Check the angles and all was as per spec.

post #10 of 10

  Almost all race skis (and recreational ones as well!). come UNFINISHED from the factory. Meaning, the new ceramic grinding process they use to set base and side edge angles are only effective from the fore-body to somewhat near the tail. This means...IF your new race stock sl WAS beveled at the factory, it still likely has a 0/90 at the tip and tail! (Just finished a new pair of rossi 165's where this was the case). IF you're tuning them yourself and the bases are flat, you still need to finish the tip and tail beveling (look for the striations I talked about in my previous post). I guess the point is, doing nothing could be disadvantageous...and, if they came flat (0&90), you have even more work to do. Inspect them first.

 

  P.s. Some of the SL's I've seen lately are STILL coming with a 1 & 2...who wants that?!?

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EpicSki › The Barking Bear Forums › On the Snow (Skiing Forums) › Tuning, Maintenance and Repairs › Tech says he doesn't want to grind a brand-new ski.