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Kona or Cannondale???

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 
I'm in the process of buying a new bike, wich you know isn't easy.
I had more or less decided on a Cannondale F700, but several people have convinced me that the Magura Julie brakes the bike is fitted with aren't good enough.
So right now I'm choosing between buying it anyway, and changing the brakes. (costly)
...or building a bike on a Kona Kula frame. (about the same price as the F700 with Magura brakes)
Any thoughts or comments on either one or both bikes?
Do I have any other (similar) options in the same price range I haven't thought of?
post #2 of 8

Similar bikes worth considering .......

Klein Attitude
Trek 8000

post #3 of 8
I do not know about the issues you have heard about the Julie, but they are definetly supriour to the Kona's V-brakes in terms of performance. Avid's as such however are pretty much the best you can get out of V's, I had them on my last three bikes.
Now, technically speaking there have definetly been issues with the Julie. They are supposed to be self-adjusting, which for a while has not been the case. A friend of mine has this problem on his 2001 Canyon (German brand, if i remember right), but Magura should have figured this out by now. The workaround is pretty straightforward easy, too.
I have the CAAD4 frame on my '99 team, when it was the last cry. I don't know if they are still handmade as they are not top of the line any more.
I can't tell you if the Coda parts suck as everybody says, i custom built my CAAD4 with the mentioned Avid breaks, all XTR, Synchros and Race Face, but C'dale appearently phases Coda out anyway. There's not much i can tell you about the Kona, it should be pretty rugged, as it's been designed for the British-Columbia crowd, and sure has a hight cult factor. As far as the forks go, the Bomber is a solid and proven choice, the Headshok's unmatched lateral stiffness will win anyday, even though hardly maintainable do-it-youself, and aftermarket upgrades are virtually not available.
For both C'dale and Kona there's one issue to bear in mind: You pay a penalty for oversea's productions. So why go far? Principia for many years has made exceptionally light HT frames out of Denmark. I always wanted to try one, but never had a chance. www.principia.dk
The MSL Pro for sure is a great basis to build up a bike from scratch (or have the dealer build it for you). You can start off with solid parts, and upgrade later. Top of the line and matching the light frame would be the following setup, propably going over EUR2500 however, but except Shimano all parts from Europe:
Wheels: Tune Sonderlaufr├Ąder superleicht
Tires: Michelin Wildgripper
Crankset: Shimano XTR (note: one piece, expensive to replace)
Cassette: Shimano XTR
Seatpost: Tune Starkes Stueck
Skewers: Tune
Handlebars: Syntace
Shifters, Derailleurs: All XTR (I prefer XTR Rapid Rise over Rapid Fire)
Breaks: Undecided, why not Julie?
Fork: Undecided, sorry, Headshok's don't fit inside the Principia's front tube
Saddle, handle bar grips: matter of taste
Pedals: Time ATAC Carbon
The tune stuff is spec'ed at: www.tune.de
Downgrade to a "lesser" spec, e.g. Tune Standardlaufr├Ąder leicht and Shimano XT, Time ATAC, you are still building an excellent bike.
Hope this helps, but perhaps i've caused more confusion, sorry if this is the case (;->)
post #4 of 8
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the tips, I'll check them out!!

Probably should have mentioned that I'm going to use the bike as my working bike, I'm a bike-courier...
Right now, it looks like it's gonna be the Kona frame with a stiff fork and XT-discbrakes and components.
The issue with the Julie brakes I've heard is that they are ok, but not really good enough to ride 100 km/day in all conditions, including snow. I need reliable brakes, hitting cars because my brakes aren't good enough is the reason I want discs in the first place.

On the Coda parts: I had to change the bearings in the front tube on my C'dale BadBoy after 3000 km, but the crankset is only just giving in, after 18500 km of abuse...
post #5 of 8
If you are riding all day and want a hard tail that will "dampen" road vibrations and "soften" an otherwise harsh ride than a Titanium frame might be a good choice. Unlike steel, titanium will never rust and will not pit, corrode or deteriorate in salt water like aluminum alloys.



post #6 of 8
Kona makes a better frame -- better geometry and burlier too.

Cannondale are lost in space if you ask me.
post #7 of 8
post #8 of 8
You need a workhorse... OK, I was coming from marathons and CC racing. Whole diffent story, of course. Well, as far as breaks go, i'd take the Magura HS33 then. I'm not the touring kid, but friends of mine who are into touring swear on these things, pretty much like tha magazines do. The disks get points in the wet and rim wear though.
The fork can/will be an issue, these things are a pain in terms of stamina. I can't really judge the Bomber, it should definetly be better than the rest in terms of quality and should not wear as quickly due to the open bath.
Good luck!
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