Originally Posted by WallDiver7
Newfydog ..... I thought I was helping by conditioning the base with a soft wax and then applying the colder wax on top of that.
It is like Newfydog wrote. Waxes mix, and using warm wax as base for cold wax makes no sense. Well sometimes it does, but not because of "easier" handling, but because mixture of that can actually be faster then cold wax alone (back in my days, one of best combinations for cold dry snow, -15c to -20c, was 1/3 of Toko HF Dibloc yellow and 2/3 of Toko HF Blue Dibloc with cold Swix CeraF powder on top, and not only Blue Dibloc, which was officially made for such temperatures).
If you didn't find out this mixture by testing, and you use it just because of "easier handling", then it's not the way to do it. Warm wax is (normally) not intended for cold snow, and mixing them will (normally) produce lower speed.
All those "wax cycling" is hype which noone really do it, and it doesn't bring anything, except lot of work for nothing.
Originally Posted by newfydog
A national team member told me they pay attention to "the recent wax history of a ski". If it has been waxed for warm, it won't be ready for cold until multiple waxings with cold wax.
It's true. One thing is that, especially in xc skiing, where wax is much much more important then in any of alpine events, everyone has several pairs of skis with different structures, so normally skis which are used for cold snow, are (almost) never used for warm snow anyway due warm structure (and vise versa). And another issue is lots of warm wax in base from previous waxing. That's also reason why I have been using appropriate wax as transportation wax too... cold HF waxes for cold skis, warm HF waxes for warm skis.
But this goes for WC, not for some recreational skiers, where most of them don't have more then pair or two of skis, and where using HF waxes for transportation wax is "a bit" out of budget :)