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Long time renter, new time owner questions

post #1 of 4
Thread Starter 

Hi Everyone,


If this has been posted before in some obscure spot, I apologize - but I could not find the full answer to my questions through search - so bear with a new member!


So my wife and I have rented skis since we were kids...I've finally gotten sick of the equipment game and we've purchased all new equipment for ourselves.  I bought a pair of Fischer Motive 88's, and my wife got a pair of K2 SuperFree's.


I'm 99% sure that what I've done to set them up so far is correct, but I just want someone else's opinion to make sure of that.  I know both of our DIN settings from all our previous skis, so I dialed those into the bindings.  On the Fischer's, which come with RSX12 Powerrail bindings, I'm fairly certian all there is to do outside of the DIN setting is to set the binding length to the approx length of my boot (337mm).


On my wife's K2's, which came with Marker ERS 11.0 TC bindings, I believe that I've set everything right - I put her DIN settings in, and I used the 305mm length on the binding length to match up to the 307mm length of my wife's boot (figured using the 315mm would be too long) - I don't believe anything else really needed adjustment.


Outside of taking both skis to get waxed (stickers and crap all over the bottoms...wtf) and just having the bindings tested, did I miss anything?


Thanks for the help.

post #2 of 4

Welcome to EpicSki and congratulations on your new equipment.  When I got out of the rental game, things really changed for me for the better.


Forgive me for saying this, but it sounds from your post as if you've got just enough information to be dangerous.  When it comes to bindings, the standard advice is to let qualified professionals do everything.  Otherwise, you're taking your safety into your hands.  But, if you choose...


Firstly, most folks who take a little dip into the DIY pond do it with wax.  It's pretty easy, has fairly low consequences, and is done frequently.  So, you may want to look into this.


Many folks rely on shops for an annual binding check/test, base grind, edge sharpening, and wax.  In between these, DIY waxing and side edge sharpening touch-ups.


As for bindings and the binding-boot interface, the most important thing is properly setting the forward pressure.  This is directly related to the length of the boot relative to the length of the binding.  If it's wrong, the DIN won't matter.  What you discuss above may very well be correct, but it's not a matter of numbers so much as getting the proper final result.  To verify this, one needs to click the actual boot into the binding.  Normally, there is some sort of subtle indication of the forward pressure.  Sometimes it's a triangle pointing between two lines.  Sometimes it's a screw being flush with its housing.  You many need to search the internet for "forward pressure" and your binding manufacturer/model.  Normally, the indicator is obvious if you know what you're looking for, but somewhat hidden to dissuade casual tweakers.  Adjusting forward pressure is done at the heel.  Sometimes it involves a screw, sometimes lifting a lever and sliding the heel piece in its track.


The DIN setting is the easy part.  Short of a proper torque test in a shop, the best you'll do is go to www.dinsetting.com and use their calculator.  Then you just use your screwdriver to adjust both toes and both heels to the number.  This is basically what the guy in the rental shop would be doing for you, after setting the forward pressure.


If you're dealing with rail systems, it may we worthwhile to check that the boot center ends up over the ski's center line.  Normally, the boot's center line is marked toward the bottom side of the boot.  On the ski, the line may be on the edge or the topsheet.  It may be a line, an arrow, a raised line, or a landmark on the binding system.  On some "system" skis, it's basically where the hole on top of the ski is.


If you don't have one, you may find it useful to purchase a #3 Pozidriv screwdriver.

post #3 of 4
Thread Starter 

Thanks for the reply!


I do know that I am somewhat an amatuer regarding this whole setup business, but I've waxed skis before (my brother got me to finally buy my own stuff) which isn't all that hard, and from the looks of it, figured the bindings weren't that difficult either.  On the Marker's, from the best of my understanding, you simply need to have the forward pressure screw sit flush to the housing when the boot is in the binding, which I've done.  When it comes to the RSX 12 binding on my Fischer's, there isn't anything on the back of the ski to adjust for forward pressure, or so that I could find - hence my just double checking on everything.  From what I read in Fischer's manual on the bindings (http://www.scribd.com/doc/49307382/null), basically it all looks set.  I can't see where the minimum wage high school kid at the ski shop is going to do a better job than I just did, but maybe I'm wrong?

post #4 of 4

Interesting.  Page 17 of the Fischer manual is pretty clear.  I assume you have a "toothless" model.  Does the pointer hit the scribed area?


Do the center lines match up?


I like to think I'm at least as good as the minimum wage kid, too.

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