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Marker The Squire Binding

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 

I found the 2012 marker squires on sale for 127 bucks while I was at work so I bought a pair but did not do much research before I did.  Now I have been looking around and have seen mixed reviews but I am worried about comments that these are for lighter skiers, but they are rated for 240 lbs.  I am 205 lbs, 5 ft 11 inches, advanced skier with a boot sole length of 325.  I like to ski the steeps but don't drop any cliffs larger than 10 feet.  I have never cranked any pair of bindings that I have owned over 10 and have not had any problems so I did not worry about the DIN on the squires since it goes to 11.  Does anyone have any experience with these bindings?  I am thinking about returning them for something else.

 

Specs

  • Ability Level: Intermediate-Advanced
  • DIN: Low: 3
  • DIN: High: 11
  • Brake Width (mm): 110
  • Compatibility: 110mm brakes fit skis with up to 110mm waist width. The Squire is built on a 76mm minimum ski width platform.
  • Rider Weight: 65-240 lbs
  • Warranty: 3 years
post #2 of 11

You will be putting a lot of leverage on that binding. If you are running your bindings at a 10, maxing out the spring in THAT housing, is not something that I would recommend. Find yourself some Griffons, Sth12's, Look PX12's which are more substantial 12/13DIN bindings. 

post #3 of 11
Thread Starter 

I am from the east cost and normally ski my bindings around a 9 on east coast snow, but I go up to 10 when I head out west and get into the deeper stuff.  I was looking at the Salomon STH 12 with oversize brakes too but I ended up going with the squire.  The skis I will be mounting these too will be primarily used when I head out west.  Thanks for your input...I think you have convinced me to change to the sth 12 or the Look PX 12 XXL.

 

post #4 of 11

I have Squires on a pair of Scott Dozers which I've skied both east and west - although nothing deep the week I was out west last season.

I was a little worried about the reviews I had read prior to buying and mounting, but went with them anyway as I wanted something light. When they arrived I second guessed myself, as they were so light and plasticy. But I mounted them, rode about 10-12 days and have not had any problems. I'm a high intermediate, low advanced and ski pretty aggressively. They hold me in when I rip, and let me go when I slip smile.gif

 

BUT - that being said I am much lighter than you. I'm about 5' 11" but only 150. So my DIN is only at 6 or 6.5. I do reckon I'd be a lot more concerned if I had an extra 40-50+ pounds and had these things dialed to the max.

 

I think these are good light weight bindings for less aggressive and lower level skiers, lighter skiers or maybe teenagers that aren't hucking 30 footers. For people closer to the 200lb+ and who ski aggressively I would think something more solid would be more confidence inspiring. 

 

Some great deals around at the moment on Head/Tyrolia 12, Salomon STH 12, Salomon  ZTi 12 and Look PX 12 bindings at places like skis.com, O2 gear and evo for only about $20-$30 bucks more that would probably suit you better. 

post #5 of 11

by the way -slightly hijacking here - sorry Alta Lover - but you might also find this helpful if you are looking for a cheaper and lighter binding the Salomon ZTi 12 might be an option for you...

 

So - I'm also shopping for some bindings for a new set of twins I'll use exclusively east coast - 60/40 all-mountain/park
Anyone used the Salomon ZTi 12's before?

If all else is equal between them and the STH 12s, then the lighter weight on the ZTis is attractive to me, being light myself.

 

Anyone got any opinions on any differences in durability or performance/safety between the STH 12's and ZTi 12s - if any???

 

Thanks.

 

To the OP - you can get Salomon STH 12's at Skis.com for $112 (says $139, but extra 20% taken off when you add to cart).
You can also get Salomon ZTi 12s from Evo for $110. Both cheaper than the Squires you mention and both probably better. Evo also has some cheap PX 12s in the outlet section, although narrow brakes, so depends on your skis. 

post #6 of 11

I would advise looking at something with at least 12 din, ie Marker Griffon's, Salomon STH12's, PX12's. Best case would be to get something that's 14-16 din, Jesters, STH16, PX14, Look/Rossi Pivots 15.

post #7 of 11

FYI: The binding that you select should have a din range where your din setting is around the middle of the bindings range. For example, you never want to use a binding cranked down to the upper, or near the upper limit of it's din range.

post #8 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by kschwink View Post

FYI: The binding that you select should have a din range where your din setting is around the middle of the bindings range. For example, you never want to use a binding cranked down to the upper, or near the upper limit of it's din range.

 

Why not? Isn't DIN a standardized pressure or force measurement? Isn't a DIN of 10 just as safe whether it's a binding with a range from 3-11 or from 6-18? If it is set to 10 it will hold or release under the same forces yes?? That is a standard regulation in the industry - no?
I'm not at all saying you're wrong - I am fairly uninformed - and if you could explain it that would be helpful to people like myself.

My general understanding is, higher DIN bindings tend to use better and stronger components. So if you are heavy enough or aggressive enough to need DIN set at higher ratings then you will probably get better durability and performance out of a higher DIN range binding - but is it actually any more or less effective or safe?

And on that point - if I only set my DIN fairly low - say 6-7 - but I want a binding I feel is higher quality for durability, should I not get one that is rated from 6-18 and set it at 6.5 to 7 or otherwise at low end of range?? Why not?

post #9 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkiBean View Post

 

Why not? Isn't DIN a standardized pressure or force measurement? Isn't a DIN of 10 just as safe whether it's a binding with a range from 3-11 or from 6-18? If it is set to 10 it will hold or release under the same forces yes?? That is a standard regulation in the industry - no?
I'm not at all saying you're wrong - I am fairly uninformed - and if you could explain it that would be helpful to people like myself.

My general understanding is, higher DIN bindings tend to use better and stronger components. So if you are heavy enough or aggressive enough to need DIN set at higher ratings then you will probably get better durability and performance out of a higher DIN range binding - but is it actually any more or less effective or safe?

And on that point - if I only set my DIN fairly low - say 6-7 - but I want a binding I feel is higher quality for durability, should I not get one that is rated from 6-18 and set it at 6.5 to 7 or otherwise at low end of range?? Why not?

Yes and no. I have tried certain Marker bindings (on K2 and Volkl system skis) at their lowest settings, 3.5 to 4 and the heels cannot even set properly (the heel of the boot couldn't even push the brake all the way down. On the other hand, I had some 11-17 Salomon Drivers that I set below 11 and it still torqued correctly as if it was a 10. As a general rule, I try not to put any binding at it's extremities.

post #10 of 11

Checkout some of the race bindings on the market. dins going up to 30. No one ever uses a din setting anywhere near 30. Tests using a strainguage find that the binding generally release with optimum repeatability at or near the middle of their range. 

post #11 of 11

I'm 200lbs, 5'10", 312bsl. I set my din around 9. I have Squires on two pair of skis right now and they're fine. Second season and probably 100 days on one of those pairs. I don't drop cliffs at all. I would have gotten Griffon's for the second set at the end of last season, but Philpug must have sold them all because his shop was out, so I ended up with the Squire anyway. No regrets. 

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