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Ragged side edges

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 

Question for a relatively novice tuner.  When my edge gets a little ragged, I deburr them with a series of DMT diamond stones in a FK multi tuner.  However, the burrs or scratches on the side edge often seem to be beyond the reach of the stone in the guide.  See photos.  Do you recommend just leaving the edge as is, or is there something else I should be doing to smooth it?  Thanks very much.





post #2 of 6

My guess is that the angle of the tuner is not the same angle as that of the side edge.  Just because you put it on the right number, doesn't mean it is the correct one.  Maybe using a guide on 3 but the edge is a 2?  Put some pencil marks or sharpie marks in a few areas and go across it with the stones again and you'll see where your stones are hitting.  It might be time to "set" the edges with a file.  It is best to have the base done by machine at a shop (my opinion).  Your bases look pretty good so I don't think you need a grind.  Some folks like to set their own base edges.  You can do it but you really have to be careful since this is the foundation work.


Typically, your base edge is 1 deg and side 2 or 3.  If these haven't been set at a shop and only the factory tune, it's a roll of the dice as to what you have.


Welcome aboard by the way,



post #3 of 6
Thread Starter 
Thanks, Ken. They're actually brand new skis, with just three days of spring skiing on them.I bought them from Start Haus and they were tuned base 1 side 2, so I'm pretty sure they were set correctly. I'll mark the edges with marker before working on them again and see what happens.
post #4 of 6

All maintainance work after initial base edge set and polish should be done on side edge only.


Have you or did somebody plane the side walls.? this may or may not help.


I am not a fan of DMT's I use Moonflex  Diaface stones.


Some chewed up edges need to be reset with a file.


When resetting my side edge. I first back-file with a 7 degree guide and a panzer file.


Then again using the panzer file I use 1 degree over the final side edge angle I want to achieve until I have a nice sharp edge tip to tail.


I would then finish with a fine or finer file set at my final bevel angle. Notice NO TOUICHING the base edge. I would alos highly recommendu sing base tape during this process.


Now I would start with a diamond or a series of stones depending on how much time you want to spend and how polished you want your edge.


The process of finishing the side edge is designed to continually smooth out the previous work, leaving you with a nice smooth, grippy edge. I like to make a few passes with a middle grit diamond file next, of course attached to the file guide. This will really soften the rough effect that the file has left. At this point in a new ski prep, I will take an Arkansas or ceramic stone and lightly pass it along the base edge to cut the "curl" of steel that has developed from all this filing. I usually do this freehand, with light to medium pressure. Now you are ready to really put the edge on – use your Arkansas or ceramic stone with your file guide, and begin working the side edge steel back and forth until it is extremely smooth and sharp. A light no pressure  pass at a 45 degree angle with a hard  gummi block will finish the edge off, and you should have a very sharp, smooth edge that is ready to ski

post #5 of 6
Thread Starter 
Thanks very much. Yes the sidewalks were planed. What do you mean by back file with a 7 degree guide? Is that just to get well beyond the existing edge?
post #6 of 6

I like to make 1 or 2 passes with a 5 to 7 degree angle using a cross (panzer) file along the whole length of the edge; this allows the top corner of the steel to blend nicely with the sidewall.


Artech  has a 7 degree file guide available here. http://www.artechski.com/ARTECH-Side-Edge-Beveler-File-Guides-7259.aspx

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