New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Head Peak 78

post #1 of 42
Thread Starter 
Im tuning the edges on my Head Peak 78 skis. The factory tune worked just fine. The factory bevels are 1/1. Does anyone know whether they retune the tips and tails at the factory? I'm suspecting it's not done anymore.
post #2 of 42

wrong section bob, but no, they don't.  Most will tune to 2 edge 1 base for skinny boards on groomers. 


Edited by Finndog - 5/15/12 at 5:49am
post #3 of 42
Thread Starter 
Thanks Finndog. I'm still new to this. I appreciate your help.
post #4 of 42

no worries. take a look at the heading of each section. if in doubt take a look at a few of the posts to see what kind of information or questions are being asked. Member reviews are for us non-pro's to post our reviews of ski and skiing related products.  You could have posted your question in either the ski gear discussion or the tuning section.  I would suggest that you spend some time pursuing each section since you are new to see some of the great info that is here for tuning help, bevel choice and so on.  

 

Two of our sponsors here are very active in the tuning section. I encourage all here to buy from our sponsors. 

post #5 of 42
Thread Starter 

Head Peak 78

I'm about to do the edges on my Head Peak 78 skis. I really like them the way they are right now.. I believe their factory bevels are 1/1. Does anyone know if they Detune the tips and tails at the factory - or just leave the edges sharp all the way from tip to tail?
post #6 of 42

you found it!  

 

the answer is still the same, no they don't detune! biggrin.gif

post #7 of 42
Thread Starter 
Thanks again. In my first post I messed up in more ways than one. I referred to DETUNE as RETUNE. Wanted to make sure I had asked the right question. wink.gif
post #8 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Finndog View Post

wrong section bob, but no, they don't.  Most will tune to 2 edge 1 base for skinny boards on groomers. 

^^^^This, but of course a tuner will give you anything you ask for. IMO the Head factory tunes are, ah, not entirely desirable, suspect a 1/2 would make you happier, up the grip on hardpack. Many here ski 1/3 for groomers, but it's a matter of taste. 

post #9 of 42
Thread Starter 
I might just do that. What are your thoughts on taking the base bevel down to a .7 or a .5?
post #10 of 42

I switched the edge to a 3 degree bevel and found it gives great bite on the east coast ice. Actually I do this to all my skis. 

post #11 of 42
Thread Starter 
I'm curious as to you thoughts on bringing the base bevel down from one degree to .7 or .5.
post #12 of 42

I you were satisfied with a base at 1, I'd suspect that a .7 or .5 would feel awfully quick to bite, maybe to the point of being grabby. The only people I know who use a .7 to .5 base are racers. Others may want to chime in here, I'm sure there are members who use that for recreation. 

post #13 of 42

we now have this thread going twice - mods, can you move to tuning? 

post #14 of 42
Thread Starter 
Thanks for this. Grabby is something I definitely want to avoid. But will a lower base bevel like .5 or .7 make your skis quicker edge to edge?
post #15 of 42
Thread Starter 
Will do.
post #16 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by beyond View Post

I you were satisfied with a base at 1, I'd suspect that a .7 or .5 would feel awfully quick to bite, maybe to the point of being grabby. The only people I know who use a .7 to .5 base are racers. Others may want to chime in here, I'm sure there are members who use that for recreation. 

 

From experience with the Peak78 (3 years old, 177cm) I'd stick with the 1/2. I went 1/3 my second season on them but preferred them with a 1/2. 

post #17 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Surly Bob View Post

Thanks for this. Grabby is something I definitely want to avoid. But will a lower base bevel like .5 or .7 make your skis quicker edge to edge?

No. That's the physics of the ski + your own technique. And for 90% of the skiers out there, for 90% of the skis of a given design, personal technique will be more limiting than the ski you're on. The base bevel will influence how quickly the new edge will engage once the skier has shifted his/her weight toward it. So the closer you get to a flat (0) base/edge angle, the more the edge will tend to engage just past the moment the ski is flat. On a well-prepared race course, if you're expecting it, that very quick new engagement can be useful. On normal snow, which isn't perfectly flat and hard, you could find yourself engaging before you're ready, or even when you don't want to, say when you hit a surface irregularity while running straight. Thus "grabby."

 

IMO you're overthinking this one a bit. Go with 1/2 and you'll be happy. Get them resharpened on a regular basis, and you'll be even happier.

post #18 of 42

Tune them ato a tur 1 degree (no more then that. I find most folks over bevel their base edges)  and put a 3 degree on the side. YPu will love the 3.

 

I own Head Mojo 94 and Head Monster 88 both 1/3 . this transformed the skis into real performeres!

 

You could certainly start with a .5. The advantage of this is that if you don't like it you can increase the base bevel to a .7 and f you don't like that you can go to 1 degree. i you start with a 1, you can't decrease the base edge bevel. Side edge bevel can be increased or reduced at will. And you don;t tale much edge materail off in the process. So you can start at a 3 and if it is too aggressive for you (which I highly doubt) you can easily reduce the the angle to a 2. And don't believe the wife's tale that a 3 dull faster then a 2, it just ain't the case!

 

Head's factory tunes are awful on thier wider skis. 1.5 to 2 degree base in places and a measly 1 degree side edge. Inconsistent and just pitiful to ski on!

post #19 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by NSskier View Post

I switched the edge to a 3 degree bevel and found it gives great bite on the east coast ice. Actually I do this to all my skis. 

 this is a great option for hard snow environments.  It does require more maintenance as the edge will wear faster. 

post #20 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Surly Bob View Post

I'm curious as to you thoughts on bringing the base bevel down from one degree to .7 or .5.

bad idea.   see above, go with a 1:3 if you want more edge hold and bite.  In addition, to maintain this accurately would be a pain and almost daily retune on hard snow

post #21 of 42
Thread Starter 
Thanks. That's what I thought.

On a slightly different note I've heard it said that when tuning skis one shouldn't deviate from the factory bevels. Clearly everyone in this thread disagrees - for sound reasons.
post #22 of 42

sure you can, why not?  however, the most common and most useful base is 1*, there's really no reason for mortals to use anything more. Edge-wise, the most common and most versatile by far is 2*; for powder and soft snow I like 1* and for hard snow, EC conditions a 3* is very useful. 

post #23 of 42
Thread Starter 
Excellent feedback! I've only been a member for a few days but I'm already blown away by how helpful the
discussions are.
post #24 of 42

cool, just don't start or post in helmet threads........wink.gif

post #25 of 42

Mod note: I combined the two threads (the original one was in the gear forum) by Surly Bob into the one here.

post #26 of 42

Fortunately, my tuning is far superior to my typing!redface.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomicman View Post

Tune them ato a tur 1 degree (no more then that. I find most folks over bevel their base edges)  and put a 3 degree on the side. YPu will love the 3.

 

I own Head Mojo 94 and Head Monster 88 both 1/3 . this transformed the skis into real performeres!

 

You could certainly start with a .5. The advantage of this is that if you don't like it you can increase the base bevel to a .7 and f you don't like that you can go to 1 degree. i you start with a 1, you can't decrease the base edge bevel. Side edge bevel can be increased or reduced at will. And you don;t tale much edge materail off in the process. So you can start at a 3 and if it is too aggressive for you (which I highly doubt) you can easily reduce the the angle to a 2. And don't believe the wife's tale that a 3 dull faster then a 2, it just ain't the case!

 

Head's factory tunes are awful on thier wider skis. 1.5 to 2 degree base in places and a measly 1 degree side edge. Inconsistent and just pitiful to ski on!

post #27 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomicman View Post

Tune them ato a tur 1 degree (no more then that. I find most folks over bevel their base edges)  and put a 3 degree on the side. YPu will love the 3.

 

I own Head Mojo 94 and Head Monster 88 both 1/3 . this transformed the skis into real performeres!

 

You could certainly start with a .5. The advantage of this is that if you don't like it you can increase the base bevel to a .7 and f you don't like that you can go to 1 degree. i you start with a 1, you can't decrease the base edge bevel. Side edge bevel can be increased or reduced at will. And you don;t tale much edge materail off in the process. So you can start at a 3 and if it is too aggressive for you (which I highly doubt) you can easily reduce the the angle to a 2. And don't believe the wife's tale that a 3 dull faster then a 2, it just ain't the case!

 

Head's factory tunes are awful on thier wider skis. 1.5 to 2 degree base in places and a measly 1 degree side edge. Inconsistent and just pitiful to ski on!


This!  I have seen absolutely no reason or value to using less than 3 degrees on the side edge (and maintaining sharpness requires the same effort regardless of angle).  I personally like to set base at < 1 degree, 0.5 for Slalom , 0.7 on everything else. YMMV

post #28 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Surly Bob View Post

Thanks for this. Grabby is something I definitely want to avoid. But will a lower base bevel like .5 or .7 make your skis quicker edge to edge?

 

Surly Bob,

 

If you definitely want to avoid grabby, then you may not want a lower base bevel angle.  I say that because a smaller base angle will make the skis more sensitive to small adjustments when they are flat or near flat on the snow.  With a flatter base bevel, the skis may respond to a command to turn that you were unaware of making.  This is the other side of the responsiveness coin to grabbiness, which is simply solid responsiveness to edging.

 

If you're concerned about achieving quickness edge to edge, technique matters more than tune.  If you fight or resist letting go of the old turn, it saps the energy of your turn.  You'll still transition to the new turn despite your resistance, but you'll be slow edge to edge.  If you don't resist but instead release the old turn freely, the energy released from that turn will make for a snappy edge change.

 

Personally, I put a 0.5* base / 4* side bevel on all my skis, including a pre-flowride pair of peak 78.  But most skiers prefer a bit more play ("forgiveness") in the steering.  Different strokes for different folks.  If you do try a more aggressive tune, do so on an uncrowded slope the first time until you gain confidence that your skill level is compatible with the increased responsiveness.

post #29 of 42

I was waiting for this....  I don't get why you want to tune a ski that requires you to "be on it" all day. Since the vast majority of skiers can't tell the difference of a .5* I find it amusing. By the end of the day on hard snow, you will have to re-tune them.  I don't think there really is any advantage to having ski's tuned to this extreme which will wear so quickly and require you to be on them aggressively . Oh, and don't forget the base grind too. 


Edited by Finndog - 5/18/12 at 7:28am
post #30 of 42

Finndog,

 

Sorry to keep you waiting so long wink.gif

 

You ask why some people want a ski that requires one to "be on it all day."  Not everybody does want this.  But for a minority of us skiers, it is an amazing rush to become part of a responsive, high-performance, gravity-powered machine ... even when tooling around at pedestrian speeds. 

 

Most of us can't afford to drive a Ferrari, but for about $1k of skis, a small investment in ski prep and tuning gear, and a dedication to technique we can get that experience on the slope.  Sport car, luxury sedan, family car, motorcycle, moped, golf cart -- pick your preferred on-slope style. I choose high performance, hyperfocus, and finesse.

 

My view is that if you have the balance and refined motor skills to bend a ski to your will, it's a terrible shame to pass up on that opportunity.  Carpe diem!

 

 

Wishing you a thorough and complete recovery and a great season next year,

 

-sharpedges

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Tuning, Maintenance and Repairs