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MTB Advice

post #1 of 77
4/28/12 at 2:09pm
Thread Starter 

Hi All

 

Some of you whom are likely to give advice know me and most do not.  I want to get into mountain biking and feel that I have now done enough research to understand the advice that you folks can give.   I feel I am about half the way I need to be as far as education on buying a bike.    I think I have decided on a mountain bike as I do not like riding with ohio drivers where there are narrow lanes and no shoulders with blind dips in the roads.

 

Here is what I do know.   I am 57 years old and not getting any younger. Given I may not have that many years left to MTB I do not want to play the game of slog-along and waste time like I was young.  I know from skiing what the big difference newer performance equipment has over used dated equipment.  I have not mountain biked very much. I have dabbled into it a bit with my old Montague BiFrame bike. From looking online I believe that I am at least above the beginner status with a damed good handle on how to move with a bike.

 

Here is more of a bullet point summary

 

Age: 57 M

 

Fitness: Lost 50 lbs now 175lb  Fit at this time, no injuries.   Have some hand problems with Raynaud's and tigger finger.   Not getting worse.  Have had some back issues in the past. Have hemmerhoids that can flare up.   Very coordinated

 

5'9" tall, inseam 30"

 

Likely to be a touchy feely biker that appreciates a good feel to a bike as much as I like the ride itself.  I will likely not have a lot of fear learning how.  I probably won't like a sluggish slow bike and don't like cheap junk.

 

Riding area will be Northeast Ohio, Western PA/NY,  North West MI,  Possible Co and Ut.  I have liked single track in the past and there are decent trails within 10 miles (probably 50mi total) 150Miles of track within 30 mi.  Will also do a little on tight gravel bike paths in local parks between here and work.

 

i am very mechanically inclined.

 

Local dealers are Giant, Specialized, Pivot (all next to trail system) Trek, Cannondale

 

Budget  Would like to be near $2000 but tops with reservations at $3,500.  Most local shops are at MSRP.  At this point I doubt I will take the shops word as gospel.  I does seem as if they are inclined to help me with demos to a certain degree.  I doubt I am good enough to select solely based on a demo and will lean more towards advice I trust.

 

I know the difference between a hard tail and a FS system (Hard tail is the result of riding a hard tail MTB.  I probably want FS. 

 

I have a good idea of how I will tackle the plan to learn at a fast pace.  What I need is your advice on bike models and  your overall advice in general.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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post #2 of 77
4/28/12 at 5:46pm

I like the suspension on the Giants and the Pivots the best out of those bikes. I'd go with one of those. I don't know if you can get a Pivot out the door in your price range though - even the upper end. 

 

One thing to think about is drivetrain - not Shimano vs. SRAM, both are nice, but 2x10 vs. 3x10. Depending on what your fitness level is like, and what the terrain is like, you may find that you'd want the greater range of gears on the 3x10.

 

My advice as a starting point, check out the Giant TranceX in one of it's many flavors.

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post #3 of 77
4/30/12 at 10:55am

Pierre, I am same age as you and really enjoy mt. biking. Like you, I wonder how old I can be and still do it. However, like sking, I think the main problem in later years will be falling. Unfortunately, it's much worse to fall on dirt, rock's and trees than snow. But, I figure I will move to easier and easier terrain as I age.  Anyways, it's a lot of fun, but you are right to try to get the right equipment. I'm not an equipment geek at all, but what I've noticed over the years is that I like full suspension (it really helps smooth out the bumps) and ideally lightweight. It's also nice to be able to lock out suspension for the uphills. In the price range you're looking in, you really should be able to get all the features you need for good cross country type riding. At 57, I assume you're not looking at big jumps and body armor. If so, expect some broken body parts eventually. 

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post #4 of 77
4/30/12 at 11:40am

Welcome to the bliss of dirt biking Pierre.  The old broken record on boots applies here.

 

Fit is more important than any other parameter aside from price range.

 

You could ride a $2500 Trek with a plush ride yet have a better fit on a Giant for $1500 with less travel.  Good money will have you enjoying your ride on a good fit versus a plusher ride that you must fight with to move forward.  A good shop will steer you in the right direction

 

Your LBS is as valuable as a bootfitter.  Once you take the plunge, a good fitting bike will provide miles of enjoyment.  You can develop a relationship with your shop, but don't buy retail unless you have extra cash for all the accessories.  

 

I use ebay, there are a lot of men who's wife; left them/is expecting, or demands they make room in the garage and are getting rid of a perfectly good bike for a song.  But that takes knowing what bikes you fit, and your local bike shop is where you learn this.  The margins on bikes are minimal, accessories and replacement parts are where they make the bank, if you establish a relationship, they will understand if you don't pay retail on a bike, and choose to buy continuing supplies and parts with them.

 

Skills needed go beyond a good spin and gear choice.   

 

Bike handling is paramount to dirt riding.  It doesn't take a lot to start.  If you're waiting on a group or partner, don't just stand there.  Try slow speed minimum radius turns in the carpark.  When you get that cookie cutter round and round feeling, you then feel the limits of a tight turn. 

 

Try going as slow as possible before sticking a foot down, at that point pedal out.  Eventually you can do track stands, a fancy looking move, but valuable when negotiating a single track with obstacles.  

 

Goof off with brake balance, the front is your friend.  Pull slowly harder and harder, your rear wheel will eventually lift as you stop.  Ease off and back on.  Lifting the back is not a bad move, it develops your balance and brake feel.  Eventually a reverse wheelie allows you to pivot on the front in tight spots.

  

Wheelies are also a useful trick, just enough to get up a curb, nothing too showy.  Pedal pressure and weight shift work a lot better than just yanking up on the bars.

 

Last but most key is the bunny hop.  Wheelie like you know, but sharply force the handlebars forward almost simultaneously to get that rear wheel up.  This trick can help in dire circumstances that be the difference between hitting an unexpected object, or sailing over it.

 

I have seen many a greybeard demonstrating these skills on a routine ride, one is never too old to ride the dirt.

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post #5 of 77
4/30/12 at 12:40pm
Thread Starter 

Thanks for the replies.  I am going back and forth between great deals on 26" bikes vs 29er's    I understand the difference but have no real bench mark fo judge by.    I will probably like technical stuff, will want to climb and want a bike that corners well and that is what I see as the good points fore a 26".   As far as the 29er goes I undestand that the ride is much better, especially in rocky areas and my riding areas are pretty rocky. What I don't know is if the ride is double the price better.   I can stay under 2k and get a bike sooner if I go with a 26.   I have tried a 29er just around the parking lot and liked it but I also have liked my old 26.

 

Bikesdirect has really good prices on 29er's though but I don't know enough to buy one.

 

 

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post #6 of 77
4/30/12 at 2:48pm

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pierre View Post

I am going back and forth between great deals on 26" bikes vs 29er's

 

 

Wheel size is just one piece of the equation. It's like looking at just waist-width or turn-radius alone. You can have two skis with the same waist-width that are totally different. So what I'm saying is look at the whole package and not just one piece. It is nice though tat you are starting with a clean slate and don't have a garage full of 26" tires that you'll want to use.

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post #7 of 77
4/30/12 at 7:00pm
Thread Starter 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by epic View Post

 

 

Wheel size is just one piece of the equation. It's like looking at just waist-width or turn-radius alone. You can have two skis with the same waist-width that are totally different. So what I'm saying is look at the whole package and not just one piece. It is nice though tat you are starting with a clean slate and don't have a garage full of 26" tires that you'll want to use.

 

I have done a fair amount of studying on size and fit.  I have a mountain bike book I bought about 15 years ago that has a bunch of body measurements to determine size.  The problem that I have is that I have a long torso, long arms, short femurs and long tibias.  That combo is nice for not hitting my knees but according to the book I need a large frame in most cases to accomodate the long torso and long arm but the standover height is to high in most cases.  My present bike has very little clearance between the bar and me and fits very nicely everywhere else.  I don't recall having a problem with this.

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post #8 of 77
5/1/12 at 10:26am

I'll be 57 this year, weigh 10 pounds more and am a couple inches taller. I did a lot of research on mountain bikes last year including 26ers vs. 29ers. Most of my rides entail a long climb followed by a long downhill with lots of barely visible single track stretches in both. I ended up getting a Giant Trance X frame preferring the lighter weight and increased maneuverability of a 26er. I felt the added weight of a 29er negated whatever other efficiencies you gain from a 29er since I don't do long stretches of rolling or flat terrain. I also just didn't feel as safe on the 29er doing windy single track descents and I'm more concerned about avoiding crashes than anything else when it comes to mountain biking.

 

I would highly recommend starting your search out by comparing a Giant Anthem 29er to a Giant Trance X 26er. That will give you a good idea of what you gain and lose between the two wheel sizes. You might find the stability of a 29er is more of an advantage than the maneuverability of a 26er for the type of riding you do....similar to comparing a longer ski to a shorter ski. If you are mainly riding terrain which doesn't have long climbs you might also prefer 29er for its increased efficiency in carrying speed.

 

One thing nobody's mentioned is the argument of tubed tires versus tubeless. I've found tubeless to be better at providing a smoother ride, something I really appreciate as I get older. Many people do conversions on their non-tubeless rims but I hate having to load up my tires and rims with all the gunk you need to seal them. If you are having to buy the wheels for your bike consider getting a good tubeless rim like the Mavic 819 or 823 or one of the many tubeless wheelsets out there. 


Edited by Rio - 5/1/12 at 11:05am
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post #9 of 77
5/1/12 at 11:38am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rio View Post

One thing nobody's mentioned is the argument of tubed tires versus tubeless. I've found tubeless to be better at providing a smoother ride, something I really appreciate as I get older. Many people do conversions on their non-tubeless rims but I hate having to load up my tires and rims with all the gunk you need to seal them. If you are having to buy the wheels for your bike consider getting a good tubeless rim like the Mavic 819 or 823 or one of the many tubeless wheelsets out there. 

 

I agree 100% with this. Tubeless by whatever means necessary, but for me, I want it as close to true UST as I can get. I've been running tubeless since 2004 and still haven't had a puncture (knock wood). Another must-have accessory IMHO is a dropper post such as the RockShox Reverb.

20100702-Reverb.jpg

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post #10 of 77
5/2/12 at 3:43am

Just a few observations and thoughts from someone who has taken a similar journey to what Pierre is looking at. I'm 60 and started riding about  5 years ago.

I picked up a $75.00 Raleigh M-60 at a fall yard sale as it had been years since I'd been on any kind of bike and I figured it would be a good way to get into shape

for ski season.Rode that fall on mostly fire roads and rail trails and enjoyed it. Went out with friends at one of the local single track parks and quickly decided I needed

an upgrade to a better bike. I ended up picking up an '07 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR (26" FS) off Craigslist for about half of new price. Found I really enjoyed riding and put lots of miles

the Stumpy-what had started out as a "get into shape program" became an end in itself. Demo'd other bikes on occasion (we are gear sluts after all) and last year decided to upgrade.

I ended up with an '11 Specialized Epic Comp Carbon 29 from the LBS at a great end of year price (the 2012 is almost identical except for graphics)

 

26"vs.29"-The 26" Stumpy feels small after riding the 29" and really not any more manuverable.Someone with better bike skills than me may disagree, but the 29 is just as good in tight stuff,

and is more stable and less squirelly. The bigger wheels really help on rollovers, roots, rocks and the like and I have no trouble climbing (the Epic is lighter). I ride some fire roads and seasonal

roads on occasion and the 29 is much smoother on the surfaces where there are smaller rocks and pebbles. I'd never go back to a 26 and I'm seeing more and more 29's out there.

 

LBS vs. Ebay, Craigslist etc-I'm a pretty frugal guy and always looking for a bargain. My first bike came from Craigslist and I looked all last summer before I bought my new one. I didn't find

anything worth considering-in fact it was the opposite. Lots of people asking stupid prices for used older stuff. You may get lucky,but you'll spend a lot of time looking. Ebay can be attractive, but

usually no way to examine the bike and often they sell for 75-80% of what a new one with warranty would cost. Warranty is an issue-not sure about other manufacturers, but Specialized gives a lifetime warranty on the frame only to the original owner. For a few hundred bucks, I'd rather have an LBS to back me up if I have a claim. Obviously, if the savings are really significant on a

year or two old bike, it's worth grabbing.

 

Just few thoughts from a relative NOOB to the world of biking. Enjoy yourself-it's a great sport. I'm riding tonite with my buddies-a couple hours of sweat and mud followed by beer and snacks in the parking lot.

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post #11 of 77
5/3/12 at 12:13pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pierre View Post

 

 

I have done a fair amount of studying on size and fit.  I have a mountain bike book I bought about 15 years ago that has a bunch of body measurements to determine size.  The problem that I have is that I have a long torso, long arms, short femurs and long tibias.  That combo is nice for not hitting my knees but according to the book I need a large frame in most cases to accomodate the long torso and long arm but the standover height is to high in most cases.  My present bike has very little clearance between the bar and me and fits very nicely everywhere else.  I don't recall having a problem with this.

Long and low is the idea,

 

I share your needs, before frames went compact, that 15 year old advice was true.  New school frames offer shorter tubes, less weight and more comfort.  

 

Look for a longer top tube number, bar stems can help but steering and tracking is affected by geometry changes, you're better off with a longer frame.  Seat fore/aft adjustments are more of a fine tune for knee placement over the toe so that leaves you with a correct length top tube as a key to fit.

 

Fit is critical to your cycling enjoyment.  

 

Niners are a great idea, starting out on one will not spoil you with easy pedal strokes a sixer has to offer.  The smoother ride and momentum preservation are significant advantages, it is up to you.

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post #12 of 77
5/3/12 at 2:09pm

I am 55 years old, 6' tall and 218lbs, (coming down from 235 and riding a lot lately.)  I had a couple bouts with a herniated disk in my lower back years ago and will not ride a hardtail.  Used to have one and my back would hurt if I rode for much longer than an hour.  You are planning on FS and that, I think, is smart.

 

Overall advice in general: Always wear gloves.  Set your clip less pedals loose so you can lock in and twist out quickly and easily.  Ride with your mouth closed.

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post #13 of 77
5/9/12 at 12:08am

Pierre, since you have body dimensions that are outside the norm, take a look at this online fit calculator. I have used it many times for both road and mountain bikes, not only for myself but for others as well.  The supporting documentation and video (via the links lower down on the page) are very helpful and informative.  Once you have taken your measurements, as described in the instruction, plug the eight measures into the calculator and it will tell you what your initial setup should be (subject to fine-tuning) and will help you avoid buying a bike that won't fit you properly.

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post #14 of 77
5/9/12 at 1:16pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by exracer View Post

Pierre, since you have body dimensions that are outside the norm, take a look at this online fit calculator. I have used it many times for both road and mountain bikes, not only for myself but for others as well. 

Interesting calculator. When I was looking for an all mountain bike this past off-season all the local shops wanted to put me on large frames with a 24"+ effective top-tube. The online fit calculator recommended a 23" to 23.4" top tube which is what I enjoyed riding and ended up getting. From what I've experienced most LBS personnel tend to be road bikers that also mountain bike and they usually recommend mountain bike sizes based on XC usage.

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post #15 of 77
5/12/12 at 4:36am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rio View Post

Interesting calculator. When I was looking for an all mountain bike this past off-season all the local shops wanted to put me on large frames with a 24"+ effective top-tube. The online fit calculator recommended a 23" to 23.4" top tube which is what I enjoyed riding and ended up getting. From what I've experienced most LBS personnel tend to be road bikers that also mountain bike and they usually recommend mountain bike sizes based on XC usage.

Very true.  This is even worse for people with a few grey hairs who walk into the LBS.  Of course, in terms of their average customer, it does make sense that they do that, but it doesn't lead to the most riding enjoyment.

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post #16 of 77
5/12/12 at 6:55am
Thread Starter 

Interesting, this fit calculator gives me an entirely different bike frame than any of the other methods I have come across.  Things in the bike world are far different than they are in the skiing world but real competence seems just as hard to find in both.

 

I am learning fast.

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post #17 of 77
5/12/12 at 8:08am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pierre View Post

Interesting, this fit calculator gives me an entirely different bike frame than any of the other methods I have come across.  Things in the bike world are far different than they are in the skiing world but real competence seems just as hard to find in both.

 

I am learning fast.

 

Think more about length than standover. You might have close to zero standover.

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post #18 of 77
5/13/12 at 5:32am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by epic View Post

 

Think more about length than standover. You might have close to zero standover.

That is just the problem epic.  This calculator gives me a frame size with a longer seat tube and a shorter top tube. Most everything else has point towards the opposite.

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post #19 of 77
5/13/12 at 8:07am

Well, that's why there are test rides.

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post #20 of 77
5/23/12 at 5:58pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pierre View Post

That is just the problem epic.  This calculator gives me a frame size with a longer seat tube and a shorter top tube. Most everything else has point towards the opposite.

 

Sounds like you have long legs in relation to your upper body.  I just did a fit for a buddy of mine who is 6'3", but with a long upper body and only a 36" inseam (sounds like the opposite to you).  The calculator was right on the money, giving a long top tube measurement (too long to be found without getting a custom frame) so we had to use a 130mm handlebar stem to get close to the proper reach, even with an XL frame.  I've done about 30 fits using this calculator, and if it says you need a longer seat tube and shorter top tube I would pay attention to it, and like Epic says, see if you can trial some different bikes to test a frame that comes close to what the calculator says you need, and see how you like it.

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post #21 of 77
5/23/12 at 8:40pm
Thread Starter 

Bit of an update.  Since I posted last I have learned quite a bit and taken some of the advice given here.  Once I was far enough post surgery I started to ride the single track trails around here.  We have some very nice trails.  My present bike is not up to snuff even for these trails but it puts a smile on my face while I continue to research bikes.   I found out pretty quickly that I am far ahead of the game when it comes to picking up mountain biking. The trail rash on some of these fellers is eyebrow raising to say the least.   One of the things I transfered to mountain biking from skiing is you cannot beat your bike or your skis into submission and expect to remain injury free and learning the sport.

 

After the first ride I went down and purchased a pair of mountian bike shoes and crank brothers pedals.  From the moment I clicked in it was heaven. I have not looked back.

 

I did start demoing bikes.  The first bike I demoed was a Giant Anthem X (26).   I had standover height in the medium frame but was much more comfortable and confident on the larger frame but no standover height. 

 

With that information in mind I tried to figure out the fit calculator you guys recommend and I have zeroed in where I am different.  I have fairly normal length legs and torso for my height but short femurs and long tibias.  The real difference come in my arm length.  I am 5'9" but a measurement of finger tip to finger tip measures 6'2".  I have very long arms. 

 

 I did find a LBS where I have meshed will with the inhabitants.  They are into all mountain and downhill bikes and deal in several brands.  One thing they don't have is the hords of cheap bikes and ingnorant general public.  The low end they carry is probably on the order of $750.  They are intrigued by a newb that will listen and will do what is necessary to increase my chances for success.  I guess following a decent plan is as rare in mountain biking as it is in skiing.  In discussions about what I wanted from a bike, these guys  felt a medium size frame was probably better  with a longer stem over the larger frame.

 

This LBS is across the street from the decent bike trails and would let me demo bikes. I made it clear that I did not want to just demo bikes to demo bikes but that I wanted to keep the number of demos low and get something important from each demo.  That was music to their ears.  The first bike they put me on was a 29 er large frame Scott Sparks Eilte.  This is a XC bike and I had very little standover height.  I was again very comfortable on the large frame bike and had no problems with the trails.  I was much faster than my current bike as this bike is a full suspension.  I appreciated the full suspension bike. I like 29'sicon14.gif

 

The next bike was again the Scott Sparks Eilite only in a medium frame.  In both cases they set the bike up quite well to fit me.   On the medium frame I wanted more reach but they said that was expected due to the 60 mm stem.  What they wanted me to tune in to was other aspects.   The medium frame bike was far more responsive and far less stable.  I was not as comfortable with the trail on the medium frame bike but I was tuning in to the differences.  Upon my return they asked me what I thought.  My comments were that I was not as comfortable on the medium frame bike but my internal energy level was higher and therefore I suspect the medium frame bike would have a much higher fun factor down the road.  I also said I might have be mistaking comfort and stability to be superior over instability and chaos.  I added that Instability to me translates into dynamic balance and dynamic balance translates to fun and much higher zen.  Stability is for grandma. I think the medium frame is better. Their comments back to me was that I hit it out of the ballpark,  perception doesn't get any better than what you have.  We were hoping you would see even a little bit of what you picked up on.  Then he brought out his personal bike and said "This is a trail bike and I suspect it will fit your personality and alpine tendencies better.   I would like to hear your opinion on this bike. 

 

His personal bike was a Yeti SB 95.  I had already read the reviews on this bike so I was more than willing to try it.  From the moment I clicked in the energy was high.  For the first time I was on a bike that gave me the same feelings that I get on a really decent pair of skis.  The Yeti is exactly what I want a bike to feel like.  The handling and steering were fantastic and I felt real positive movments of the center of mass into my turns.  Wow, I loved that precision and feeling like I was on skis.  The ride was superb and I felt light as a feather both uphill and down.  I never wanted that feeling to go away at any price.   I described to him exactly what I felt on that bike and what I felt the bike excelled at.    I definitely liked a trail geometry better than a XC geometry.  He was right that bike fit my personality great.

 

Problem is he has the only one in the state and said my enthusiams was intoxicating and a breath of fresh air for him but I should continue to explore other options.  His comment was he wants someone like me to ride with.  In a couple of weeks he is getting in a couple of Intense bikes.  A Tracer and a Spider both in a medium frame.  He said being so touchy feely I might like one or the other better than the Yeti.   In the end the bike that I buy from these guys will be worth every penny.  

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post #22 of 77
5/23/12 at 10:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by exracer View Post

 

Sounds like you have long legs in relation to your upper body.  I just did a fit for a buddy of mine who is 6'3", but with a long upper body and only a 36" inseam (sounds like the opposite to you).  The calculator was right on the money, giving a long top tube measurement (too long to be found without getting a custom frame) so we had to use a 130mm handlebar stem to get close to the proper reach, even with an XL frame.  I've done about 30 fits using this calculator, and if it says you need a longer seat tube and shorter top tube I would pay attention to it, and like Epic says, see if you can trial some different bikes to test a frame that comes close to what the calculator says you need, and see how you like it.

 

Just noticed a typo but the system wouldn't let me edit it.  It should have said, "6'3", but with a long upper body and only a 33" inseam".  I'm 6'1" with a 35" inseam, by comparison.

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post #23 of 77
5/24/12 at 4:23am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pierre View Post

His personal bike was a Yeti SB 95.

 

Yes!

 

Re: Intense - I just added a 2nd one to the stable yesterday and will have a third in a few weeks. You will love Intense also. Probably the Tracer more than the Spider (I haven't ridden the Spider2 though), but the Carbine is the one I think you'd really like the most.

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post #24 of 77
5/31/12 at 1:29pm

I used that calculater the other day for kicks and it was very cool. I really like how it incorporates the different arm, leg, torso measurements rather than the typical versions. Very helpful.

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post #25 of 77
5/31/12 at 7:07pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by epic View Post

 

Yes!

 

Re: Intense - I just added a 2nd one to the stable yesterday and will have a third in a few weeks. You will love Intense also. Probably the Tracer more than the Spider (I haven't ridden the Spider2 though), but the Carbine is the one I think you'd really like the most.

If he likes 29'ers and likes the feel of the SB95 then the Tracer29 would be his best bet in the Intense line.

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post #26 of 77
6/1/12 at 5:04am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom View Post

If he likes 29'ers and likes the feel of the SB95 then the Tracer29 would be his best bet in the Intense line.

I went to the LBS yesterday and they do not have the Tracer 29 in yet.  My research has pointed towards the Tracer 29 as well.  They did have a Carbine in the shop but that bike was not for sale.  They told me the Carbine was more towards the XC end and the Tracer was closer to what the SB 95 is.

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post #27 of 77
6/1/12 at 1:14pm

The carbine is 26" wheeled and made from carbon so it it very light, but it is (or can be) a very capable 'All-Mountain' bike. There is a Carbine SL that is 'XC' and a Tracer 2 which is aluminum AM/trail (same geometry as the carbine, just 1.5lbs heavier and it has ISCG tabs). We have a Carbine demo bike at the shop that is built with a 150mm Fox 32 which makes it feel a bit on the light duty side, a Fox 36 would change that... but the Tracer29 would be a perfect comp to the SB95. We have two demos of the T29, in fact, Epic is out riding one of them right now, perhaps he'll weigh in when he gets home.

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post #28 of 77
6/1/12 at 6:09pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom View Post

We have two demos of the T29, in fact, Epic is out riding one of them right now, perhaps he'll weigh in when he gets home.

 

I reviewed that Tracer29 last year here - http://www.epicski.com/t/103914/some-2011-demos-specialized-intense-and-santa-cruz-giant-soon-to-come

 

I still like it better than any other 29er I've ridden. I really like how it corners and goes down hills. I'd still like to try it tubeless because while I think it is really good on tech climbs, I think it's a little slow on the uphills. I also know for sure having now tried both the Med and the Lg, that the Lg is for me.

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post #29 of 77
6/4/12 at 9:57am

Nice bikes.  But there goes the budget and does the OP really need a AM bike?

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post #30 of 77
6/4/12 at 10:54am

I don't know if he needs an AM (I'm not really into the labeling thing anyway- is it just 1" of travel that separates AM from "trail") bike or not, but it seems to be what he is gravitating toward. As for pricing, I say good for him to know that he's going to needs to spend some money to be satisfied with his bike. Know thyself.

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