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Bike Advice

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
OK all you bike folks I need some advice. I have finally come to the realization that I cannot afford a road bike this summer. I really do want to eat up some pavement miles though.
After reading other posts about converting MTBs I had an update on an earlier Idea but want to throw it out for suggestions on ride & cost effectiveness.
I am lucky enough to have a trek carbonfiber hard tail. great stiff light bike. Now it should make a good bike for extended road rides but I need some modifications.
obviously slicks but do I need a new wheel set?
I also would like some bars to get into a comfortable aerodynamic position, like the ones tri-athletes use, elbows on the bars, pitched forward.
I also will be doing some more trail rides so I would like to be able to swap out.
I have been 1/2 heartedly looking at parts as I looked for a new road bike but now am decided and at that precarious first step process & was looking to see if it was feasible & if there are any suggestions.

Thanks in advance.
post #2 of 10
Get a set of road slicks, I like the Continental Grand Priz MTB with the kevlar bead, spendy, but light and fast. You don't need another wheelset unless you don't like to change tires. The slicks work surprisingly well well on dry trails if it's not too technical. I wouldn't recommend an aero bar if you're also going to ride trails. MTB bars ends should give you enough hand positions for the road and you won't always be switching the aero bar.

I have a Trek STP 200 and have used it for road rides up to 35 miles with the stock tires and it worked pretty well. It would be even better on the road with slicks. Got not trouble cruising on the flats at 18-19 mph.

Have fun on the road.

Bong<FONT size="1">

[This message has been edited by bong (edited June 22, 2001).]</FONT><FONT size="1">

[This message has been edited by bong (edited June 22, 2001).]</FONT>
post #3 of 10
Hey Matt,
I am not a gear head when it comes to ratios and the like, but you may want to look into getting a bigger upper chainring. That will help you go faster than what comes on the mnt bike. Just something you may want to consider.
post #4 of 10

1) if you're looking for fast tires on the pavement, look for slick tires that can take higher pressures. Typically such tires run narrow as well. Specialized Fat Boys in 1.25" run up to 100psi or so and worked very well for me on the road.

2) a second set of wheels speeds things up a lot if you're planning on swapping tires frequently. You could build it yourself pretty inexpensively.

3) aero bars? As bong says, probably won't really need/want them if you already have bar ends. Maybe if you're doing lots of long flat rides (60+ miles), in which case you'd want to consider a road bike.

4) bigger chainring? Maybe, maybe not. Most road bikes are overgeared for the average mortal anyways. Chances are you'll be able to go plenty fast with your stock chainrings/cassette.
post #5 of 10
I thought I had NOTHING to add to this, but after reading nopainnojane and andrew_tai's responses, I think I should say that NPNJ has a good idea.

I ride a hard tail mountain bike to work on paved bike trails, mostly flat, certainly no "climbing". The bike has a 3 ring chainring (don't know the # of teeth) and a 7 speed cassette. I find it very easy to get to the point of spinning too fast in my highest gears (3/7). So I would recommend going to a bigger big ring. One note to add is that I'm a slow-twitch muscle fiber kind of guy. I like to pedal at lower RPMs with higher resistance.

And now that this has been brought to my attention, I may do the same.

Question: Is it possible/practical to just get a bigger big ring, or should I upgrade the whole chainring to a larger set? If I do this, do I have to replace my cassette?
post #6 of 10
Chris has an old scott ATV bar on his old POS novaro. dont know if he ever sold/scrapped the bike. but he might have canibalized it first.
Ill ask him when he gets off the river.
post #7 of 10
If you get a pair of tires which can take more pressure, be sure youre rims can!
If you have Mavic X517 or something like that, 100psi can do very bad things to the wheels!!
post #8 of 10
I slapped a big 50-tooth chainring on my old mountain bike a while back and it worked OK. The shifting wasn't very smooth because of the large differential between the small and large rings, but that big ring was much better on the road once you got into gave you a lot more gear going down hills.

Gonzo is right, a new cassette would probably be the best way to go for more gearing...especially if you're getting a new rear wheelset for road riding anyway.<FONT size="1">

[This message has been edited by donaldjacobsdj (edited June 25, 2001).]</FONT>
post #9 of 10

If you set up a mountain bike with another wheelset that has a smaller rear cassette, does it mean you'll have to screw with your rear deraileur every time you swap rear wheels? Can you even use the same derail. for the smaller cassette? Will the chain be tight enough when the smaller cassette is on?
post #10 of 10
You may have some trouble in you're largest ring in the back, and your shifting may not be as smooth in those "larger" rings. Your chain will be a little sloppy and you'll get more chain slap.

typically you can use a mt. rear derailure with just about any cassette. not true for road rears which usually can only handle a max of 28 teeth or so.

Luckily if you are using a smaller cassete on an alternate wheelset, your likely to be on smoother terrain and shifting is less critical.

I have used just about every rear derailure cassete range combo out there on my commuter, mixed and matched shimano, sram, even campy and sun tour, with proper tweaking you can get anything to work. Shifting is'nt as smooth but it's not like I'm racing to work.
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