1. Does anyone know if Lange has changed the 2013 model of the World Cup boot?
2. Could someone tell me the different cuffs available for the World Cup and how they compare?
the 2012/13 world cup boot (RP 2006) is unchanged other than graphics
different flexes are made up via cuffs and lower shells, starting at ZA soft, ZA (about 130-140ish), ZB(150 ish), ZC (160ish) and there are stiffer
the flexes are the cuff and the lower shell, sometimes they mix and match in the race department perhaps having a ZC lower shell with a ZB cuff on it, but they are normally only available as ZA/ZA, ZB/ZB, ZC/ZC etc
as far as i am aware there is no short cuff on the race dept boots, there is on the standard RS (97mm last) models in 90, 110 and 120 flex
yes and no
it needs to be done slowly small amounts at a the so as not to go too deep and make the boot too soft, there are other areas of the clog which can have material removed from them to give flex changes.... all the rough work we normally do with snips and all the finishing is done with a carbide burr, very important that there are no over cuts as this could cause a weak point and the start of a split in the shell
if in doubt take them to a fitter who works with race boots and have them do the work...it will be a lot cheaper than trashing them!
Lots of good info here from CEM and Lou, and wise advise from MtnLion!
First the ZA, -ZE thing is the softness of the plastic, each is different and each can be molded into a cuff or a clog. Then combinations of upper lower stiffness are possible. plug boots only use the regular cuff.
bolts for testing can be removed, lower bolt out is softest, upper bolt out is a little softer. it's a leverage thing, if the bolt still in is closer to the hinge points, there is less movement possible and thus stiffer. Both bolts out is like loosening the bolts on the shocks on your car to give a softer ride - NOT!!!
Softening permanantly is possible by deepening the cutouts on the sides of the clog - however- they must be exaclty even side to side and left to right, they will also be better if tapered with a flapwheel after initial cutting/grinding and care must be made that the axis of the bottom of the cutouts is not changed in relation to the axis of the hinge rivets.