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Tuning a RACE SKI

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 

I got the idea from Vitamin Ski's thread over in the  Ski Instruction & Coaching section.
Tuning a race ski is not so different from tuning any other ski in terms of basic idea and methodology but there are a few "tricks" that  are important to know.

Although I am no tuning expert (it's not my job i just tune my own skis) i thought i knew what i was doing until i spoke with somebody that does it for a living. There are specific steps and tools to be used in sequence, some work well for some condition and others for different ones. 

As i said i do not have to knodledge and experience to explain it properly but there are a few videos on youtube that are very very informative and i want to share them with you.
 

Also I would like for those who have the knowledge to share their views and thoughts on tuning race skis: what waxes work better what combinations. angles for different disciplines and different snows and so on.

here are the videos

post #2 of 12

There are some really knowledgeable people on this forum when it comes to race tuning.

I believe Slidewright and Doctor D had some video tips here.  

Start Haus sells a race tuning video at their shop.  

Pretty insightful stuff to get the most out of your ski performance. 

 

 

post #3 of 12

haha - that used to be my bench behind Jay.

post #4 of 12

I like these videos.  I have seen them before.  I just want to say he needs the base tape with the side edge guides he is using.  I use the side of BEAST Pro from The Race Place in Bend, Oregon.  It has a stainless steel glide plate.  With that plate you don''t need the base tape.  You may want to tune the plate a bit, but mine came smooth with smoothed edges so no base damage is possible with that type of glide plate.  The Side Of BEAST Pro is the best side edge tool I have ever used.  The Base BEAST guides are also among the best with stainless glide plates on all of them.

 

As for the BEAST sidewall planer that is not true.  It has no stainless plate.  In that case I will tape the planer glide plus smooth the edges of it with sandpaper.  Way less tape needed. Replace as necessary.  Last time I was at their store I told them they should put a stainless glide plate on their planer too!

post #5 of 12

Funny.  Swix relates to air temps, yet he speaks of snow temps.  If one goes to their Wax Wizard program the input ask for air temps.  There is no input for snow temp.

post #6 of 12

Wait a minute.  A softer wax he says will open the pores more?  No.  A softer wax has smaller molecules so it penetrates the sintered plastic better.

post #7 of 12

Part 4 he talks about waxing iron temps.  He says degrees, but makes no reference to C or F.  Sure he is talking about C, but he should say that.

post #8 of 12

Five minutes to cool the wax!  That I'm not going for.  Not even with a blue or harder.  Also he should have mentioned how fiberlene will help to clean the dirt off the ski by holding the dirt in the cloth. 

post #9 of 12

Always use your brass brush(es) in one direction?  Not going for that either.  I rotate my brushes constantly.  The important thing is to use only enough pressure to allow the tips of the bristles to do the work and not distort the bristles.

 

I have seen all these before, but this time here I just had to put in my 2 cents.

post #10 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacques View Post
 

Always use your brass brush(es) in one direction?  Not going for that either.  I rotate my brushes constantly.  The important thing is to use only enough pressure to allow the tips of the bristles to do the work and not distort the bristles.

 

I have seen all these before, but this time here I just had to put in my 2 cents.

It would not be difficult to pick apart one of your videos, and point out all the errors.

 

 

Jay is a good friend of mine, he's been commercially tuning for over 20 years, and is the Swix sales rep for Ontario.

 

Swix, Toko, and Sidecut to name a few - have directional arrows screen printed on their brushes.(Swix does this on some of their non-metal brushes as well).  You can disagree with a tuners opinion, but in this case the manufacturers are reccommending to use certain brushes in one direction only.

 

As we know, metal brushes are very aggressive compared to non-metal brushes.  By always using your metal brush in one direction only, you will lessen the aggressiveness (from when its new)  - therefore reducing the amount of structure in the ski that you will be erasing by metal brush use.  Some steel brushes also have their bristles installed on an angle - on these brushes it is very important to use the brush in one direction.

post #11 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chenzo View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacques View Post
 

Always use your brass brush(es) in one direction?  Not going for that either.  I rotate my brushes constantly.  The important thing is to use only enough pressure to allow the tips of the bristles to do the work and not distort the bristles.

 

I have seen all these before, but this time here I just had to put in my 2 cents.

It would not be difficult to pick apart one of your videos, and point out all the errors.

 

 

Jay is a good friend of mine, he's been commercially tuning for over 20 years, and is the Swix sales rep for Ontario.

 

Swix, Toko, and Sidecut to name a few - have directional arrows screen printed on their brushes.(Swix does this on some of their non-metal brushes as well).  You can disagree with a tuners opinion, but in this case the manufacturers are reccommending to use certain brushes in one direction only.

 

As we know, metal brushes are very aggressive compared to non-metal brushes.  By always using your metal brush in one direction only, you will lessen the aggressiveness (from when its new)  - therefore reducing the amount of structure in the ski that you will be erasing by metal brush use.  Some steel brushes also have their bristles installed on an angle - on these brushes it is very important to use the brush in one direction.


Yes, Chenzo.  I have never seen a brush with bristles that go one way at an angle.  I am not dissin' the guy at all.  Just seems he may have made a few missed statements.  I too have done the same, then realized after the fact. I hate it when that happens!  Most of my comments are just opinion.  In my videos I never claim to "know it all"  You might hear me say it's the way "I" do it.  The comment about snow temp with Swix was strange though you must admit.  Like I said if you go to the Swix site and use their Wax Wizard they will ask for "Air Temp", Air Humidity, and Snow Condition.  They don't ask for snow temps.  Given the tools he is using I can see why he tapes the base.  I have not had a ski stone ground in years so I don't get to worried about structure.  I have other peoples skis that I tune, and have never had an issue with destroying a patterned ground structure.  As a matter of fact I got some new skis last season for powder.  Funny, they had such an aggressive grind in them they were slow as all get out.   I then took my steel scraper to them and broke the structure way down.  Then they became much faster.  It was not an easy task as the bases were very hard.  Again, with most good bases the base is pretty hard and it is hard to simply scrape it away let alone brush it away.  Anyway it's all opinion of the tuner.  I believe there is no "one way only".  I also believe that a brush that is all bent over from hard brushing one direction only will only slide across the ski and not do much at all.  We as people believe in different things.  One might believe in a god where others do not.  It's all okay.  You like a window on you box, and I don't.  It's okay to not all be the same.  BTW, I did tell you your skis out of the box looked real good.  To me they looked like a first time through with a softer wax on a very absorbent base.  Please don't take anything I say personal.  I'm sure most of us are all good folks no matter how we tune or wax!  Again, there are many ways to skin a cat!

:beercheer:

post #12 of 12

Here is the part in video about Swix and air temp.  Not snow temp!

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