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Binding Newbie

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 

So I have finally advanced enough to justify buying new skis.

I am going from a Salomon origins amber 144 to a Line celebrity 100 in a 158.

My last pair of skis the binding just "came with".


I didn't realize that there was so much to learn..I thought bindings were just bindings. are my questions....

when i walk into a shop..what are some things I should ask?


I have a "back seat" there a way to correct that?  


I have been reading about the delta i ask "what is the delta on this binding"?  Do I even want an angle or should I be flat?


Do i ask to have the binding mounted in a neutral position?

Or do i just say "I am an intermediate skier...mount it how you see fit"!


I would like to be educated about what I am buying.  I dont want to walk in there and have someone sell me something expensive that I dont need..


Any advice would be greatly appreciated


post #2 of 7

Bindings pretty much are just bindings... until you start to make it really technical, then they are a part of the chain of variables that determine on-snow performance for the individual.


You have some small skis, so I'm guessing you are a smaller person, this means you can have a lower DIN binding. This is great for weight and cost, but some low DIN bindings perform differently than their high performance siblings. It's worth paying more for the better design of a high performance binding.


Delta... most shop people won't know all that much if confronted with a question about binding delta, this is where doing your own research will pay-off... if you really want to go down this miserable path of gear OCD.


The best solution to a "back-seat problem" is lessons. Take a look at what the very best women skiers are skiing on: they aren't on women's skis, they aren't in women's boots and they aren't moving the mount point on the ski forward. Sorry to burst anyone's perception, but that is a fact. Now that's the best skiers, having gear that works for you is what is important, so you might benefit from a slightly forward mount point, you may benefit from a heal lift and you might benefit from (this is the fun part) either more delta or a very flat delta.


I would look for a Marker Squire and call it good. Light weight, excellent performance, reasonable price and very flat delta.

post #3 of 7
Thread Starter 

Thank you for the detailed explanation.

So if I purchase the bindings you suggested...i just bring them in to my local shop and say "mount these"?  

My worst nightmare is being asked questions and having to say "i don't know".

post #4 of 7

While shops will mount bindings anywhere on the ski you ask them too (well, not always where you ask them to if you read the forums) but I've never had a shop ask me where I wanted them--unless you want something different they will mount the bindings where the ski manufacturer recommends.  While people will argue about 0.5cm differences in binding position at this point in your ski career the default mount ("mounting at 0 ) should be fine. As far as what binding you don't need one that goes up to a DIN of 16--don't buy more binding than you need--top end bindings are for people who are big and heavy, ski very hard and fast and jump off of stuff. If you are small, a lighter binding does make a difference, although it won't be as durable.    

post #5 of 7

It wasnt that long ago salomon was making a binding where the toe of the binding was not based on the industry standard of the sole of the boot being a precise size where the binding holds on @ the front of the boot. 


 The wings on the toe piece were adjustable & I found always worked loose. Which would result in play between the binding & boot. The bindings would then prerelease easier as a result of momentum from the boot traveling back & forth between the wings of the toe piece. In fact the pair I had they would not even adjust tight enough to remove the play & they would work lose in several runs from their tightest setting resulting in huge amounts of play.


 For @ least 20 years before this I do not know of any binding manufacture stupid enough including salomon to make such a design so I did not even think to look if it was adjustable. I bought them what I thought was a reputable dealer but they did not have any understanding & I failed to examine the bindings.


I ended up junking the bindings for safety reasons instead of selling them to the next victum which salomon continued for several years supplied stores with



 I have look bindings now & on my skis & will be purchasing one pair of knee binding & if they funtion the way I heard they do I will be replacing all my bindings with the knee bindings. ( My look bindings I think are as safe as all the other bindings out there exept the knee bindings of course I could be wrong.)


 I think it is best to buy the safest bindings out of the money allocated for purchasing ski equipment.

Secound on getting the best boots to fit your needs in comort & performance (which does not always meam most expensive)


3rd on poles that have a proper handle & are not bent.


4th on skis This is where the big bucks can be saved if newer skis several years old are bought or used skis that are in good shape.


 Never sacrifice poor bindings & boots for expensive bells & whistles on new skis

post #6 of 7
post #7 of 7

Unless you buy a rocker ski I would place the binding so ball of foot is on center of running surface of ski. (test that were conducted @ Snow Bird indicate this is a better mounting position then the manufacture recomended location) I kinda think the ski companies are playing games with location of binding mounts so they can sell the same ski with a differnt paint job & or bells & whistles to match performance to differnt price ranges.


 As for delta angle try conducting your own experiment by standing on the floor & placing differnt size of wedges (paper) under toe & heal of skis so that 50% of your weight is on the ball of foot & 50% on heal when in ski stance. Without any presure being on front or back of boot cuff. You can even use 2 weigh scales to do be more precise. (Iam no boot fitter but it just seams like a logical test to do)

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