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racing help

post #1 of 4
Thread Starter 

So I picked up NASTAR racing semi-seriously this season. I'd like to improve my skiing technique enough to try "bigger" races next season. Here's couple videos of my current skiing.  Any criticism and advice will be appreciated, so I can hopefully get to the next level, since I feel somewhat stuck at this point.








Race start:

Nastar course:





post #2 of 4
I'm not a racer, so I don't want to talk about race ski technique other than to comment that the freeski video at the top indicates to me you get a lot of your edging from moving your CM inside the turn rather than from tipping your feet first.

What I really wanted to point out is that most resorts that offer Nastar also offer a race clinic on Nastar days, and you might want to take advantage of that. They usually include that day's race fees in the clinic charge.
post #3 of 4

Really, that is classic "park and ride".  It works in that course because frankly it is a DH on a green run, and you got GS skis.  When going arc to arc as you are, induce some counter, and angulate.  This will allow you to continue to move inside.  Also it would be advisable to work on flexion and extension.  You dont need it in those runs because they are so flat, and you are creating very little forces...but if you want to improve, you need to be able to manage the forces, before you can generate them.  If you try to generate, then learn to deal with them, it wont work as the skis will break away, and the forces will be gone.


As for the start...the more horizontal your ski poles the better.  Why?  Because that means your push is more "forward" and less "up".  Forward fast.  Up slow.

post #4 of 4

I only watched the third video down the stack, the one titled, 'nastar #1." You can build pretty good angles, but you get a little back and inside, but the biggest issue is that your line is holding you back. The basic problem is that you are initiating the turn too soon. Back in the day, the rule was turn early, and that had some validity for skis that were long and straight and needed a lot of room to carve an arc, if they carved at all. Now you can arc a turn in a shorter distance, but you've got to give yourself adequate height above the gate and just enough space to the outside of the gate to be able to bring the skis back to the gate. At gate two you're redirecting the skis dramatically under the gate slowing you down. On gate three the skis carve but they are running down the fall line at the gate so you have to 'hook' the turn under the gate, again slow. Red gate four, same again. Blue gate five is very instructive. Again, turning too soon causes you to pinch the gate and eliminates the necessary space you need above and outside the gate to be able to bring the skis back to the gate on a clean arc and to get off the old turning ski and onto the new ski. If you want to get faster you should use some helper brushes set up the hill from the support pole of the gate. The distance depends on pitch and gate offset, but about three to four meters is typically appropriate. By skiing above the brush and back to the gate you are forced to be more patient across the hill and you will have the distance from the brush to the gate to shape the turn such that the skis have most of their new direction by the time you get to the gate. Place the brushes higher than you think you need them and then you can progressively reduce the height, but keep the vertical location of the brush on the rise line. If you want to view textbook position of the skis at the gate check this YouTube video out. Notice how Micki has enough of an exit angle under each gate to get to an initiation point high enough above the gate to be able to carve through the fall line, and she has enough patience across the hill to be able to bring the skis back to the pin such that the turn is essentially done at the gate. If you want to go fast or win a race, don't skid.... ever. Easier said than done.


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