EpicSki › The Barking Bear Forums › On the Snow (Skiing Forums) › Tuning, Maintenance and Repairs › Is It the Edge Angle That is Key?
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Is It the Edge Angle That is Key?

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 

This is the first year I've tuned the family's equipment and the first time I've really closely examined the ski edges. After a season of obstacles I can see that the side bevel, and even more so the base bevel, have their share of small scratches and dings. Taking these out would require removing significant amounts of metal. I've been polishing the edges regularly, the edge angle is quite sharp, and the skis work very well. Should I keep doing what I am doing or should I work harder at removing the dings?


Part of the reason I'm asking is that I think the skis are nearing the end of their usable life. They have about 100 days on them and are losing their "snap." We can probably get another season out of them. There is enough base material and edge material to take out all the dings, and remove enough base material to keep the bases flat and in line with the edges. I just don't know if there is a real benefit to doing so.

post #2 of 7

First off you need flat bases to get the proper edge bevel. Get the skivisions base flatening tool from Terry, aka slidewright.


You also don't need perfect bases or highly polished edges. My AC40's have only been stone ground once, have over 130day's on them and ski great.


Your skis have more life in them then you think, as long as you have good skis they will last a long time, just keep them off the machine.


I also use good low flouro wax, Dominator Hyperzoom. I have tried other waxes over the years but for the past 11 years or so IMO nothing comes close to it for everyday skiing and ease of appilcation.



post #3 of 7

I'd endorse MC's comment about the Skivisions tool. It'll help keep on top of things but if the bases are really bad be prepared for a fair amount of work. Really small dings don't really matter too much unless you're racing. The thing I find most important is to stay on top of things. A small amount of work regularly, deburring with a diamond stone ( I go 200 then 400 then 600) and then polishing with a very fine grit stone keeps things in good order. When I tune other people's skis and they've not looked after them, then I notice the difference and it's a whole lot of hard work to get things back to a decent standard.

post #4 of 7

Oh yea the other important thing. Remember to walk into tuning, make small adjustments/steps it's better to have to do more then try to recover from going to far.


It's really not that hard to do this if you have some kind of eye hand coordination.


There is lot's of help on the web. Also talk with Terry, Slidewright and the other guy's that post here and support the forum.


They are here to help you have a good time on your skis.


I have a friend who I used to tune for, she decided she wanted to go with a season tune from a big shop... she has done nothing but complain about skis for weeks now. I'll see what happens next season. Another buddy who has been struggling with his skis all season, thought he was just out of shape and does have lung issues. He's been using the same shop for years, he's now questioning if it's him or the tune.


I just think to myself, I haven't had a bad tune since I started doing my own tuning...



post #5 of 7

ALL maintainance work should be done on side edge only. Once your base bevel is set and mildly polished (depending on the structure that was put on the ski) you should never EVER touch your base edge until the skis are stoneground again.

post #6 of 7

If the ski started out flat, whether new or from a grind, can it become "unflat"?  I have delt with the Atomic epoxy core issue for my wife's skis, which were not flat outta the box. Otherwise, I can't say I see an issue with the base edges.

post #7 of 7

Here's what I have found in my own skis. My skis spend most of there time on edge. I find that the P-tex get's high in the center of the ski. If I don't get the high spot flat the edge guide will not sharpen the edge to the correct angle.


May be it's me but I feel the skis bite into the frim surface better if I flatten the P-tex before I do a full tune.


I tend to stop flattening when I begin to fell the Skivison base flattener hit the base edge.


I don't feel the need to remove that metal just to reset the 1* base bevel.


May be some people flatten the base P-tex and the metal edge too. IMO that's going to far for a everyday ski.


May be that's good to let the new guy's know.



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