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Any special prep needed for new all-mountain skis?

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 

These arrived in the mail yesterday, planning to take them out to Wintergreen this weekend:

 

http://www.dynastar.com/US/US/outland-80-xt_DA1KS01_product_dynastar-skis-men-all-mountain.html

 

My question is, is there any special prep I need to do for first-time use? I called Dynastar and spoke to one of the techs, he told me that they come from the factory with a rub-on wax that should be good for my first time out, but after that it might be a good idea to get a shop to put on a coat of fresh hot wax.

 

Also, tomorrow I plan on taking them to a local ski shop to have the bindings adjusted (I'll probably eventually learn how to do this myself). Just want to see what you guys think...

post #2 of 6

Might want to take a true bar and just scope out the flatness of the bases and check the base bevels.

TAKE AN ARKANSAS stone and make a couple of passes flat against the base edge making sure the stone is in contact with the base edge and that you don't roll it over the top of the edge. Using absolutley no pressure take a gummi STONE and run it down the edges at a 45 degree angle. NO PRESSURE!!!! DID I REMIND YOU NO PRESSURE!!!!

 

 

 

I would then scrape and brush the factory wax off and then do a hot scrape or 2 with soft wax, maybe even a prep wax like Dominator Base Renew (either clerar or black depending on your base) I would then hot wax them with base renew and scrape and brush and then do a coat of final wax (I like Dominator All-Temperature Zoom or Graphite Zoom for black bases, scrape brush and you've got a good start on keeping your basees in great and fast shape!

 

The other option, just ski 'em!


 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip Cracker View Post

These arrived in the mail yesterday, planning to take them out to Wintergreen this weekend:

 

http://www.dynastar.com/US/US/outland-80-xt_DA1KS01_product_dynastar-skis-men-all-mountain.html

 

My question is, is there any special prep I need to do for first-time use? I called Dynastar and spoke to one of the techs, he told me that they come from the factory with a rub-on wax that should be good for my first time out, but after that it might be a good idea to get a shop to put on a coat of fresh hot wax.

 

Also, tomorrow I plan on taking them to a local ski shop to have the bindings adjusted (I'll probably eventually learn how to do this myself). Just want to see what you guys think...



 

post #3 of 6

if you're going to the shop to check the bindings.  Just have them throw on more wax (if relatively cheap) Or ask and learn how to wax your own skis.

 

Unless you are skiing are not racing, just ski and have fun.  Don't worry so much about the tuning, those edges should be really good just with the factory tune.


Do worry about the wax, it will take some waxing cycles for the ski to max out it's holding capacity; but you don't have to go through an elaborate prepping to short-cut through those cycles; just wax more often and ski in-between until you feel the skis are holding the wax longer.  Then you can start waxing less frequently.

post #4 of 6
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomicman View Post

Might want to take a true bar and just scope out the flatness of the bases and check the base bevels.

TAKE AN ARKANSAS stone and make a couple of passes flat against the base edge making sure the stone is in contact with the base edge and that you don't roll it over the top of the edge. Using absolutley no pressure take a gummi STONE and run it down the edges at a 45 degree angle. NO PRESSURE!!!! DID I REMIND YOU NO PRESSURE!!!!

 

 

 

I would then scrape and brush the factory wax off and then do a hot scrape or 2 with soft wax, maybe even a prep wax like Dominator Base Renew (either clerar or black depending on your base) I would then hot wax them with base renew and scrape and brush and then do a coat of final wax (I like Dominator All-Temperature Zoom or Graphite Zoom for black bases, scrape brush and you've got a good start on keeping your basees in great and fast shape!

 

The other option, just ski 'em!


 

 



 



 



Quote:
Originally Posted by raytseng View Post

if you're going to the shop to check the bindings.  Just have them throw on more wax (if relatively cheap) Or ask and learn how to wax your own skis.

 

Unless you are skiing are not racing, just ski and have fun.  Don't worry so much about the tuning, those edges should be really good just with the factory tune.


Do worry about the wax, it will take some waxing cycles for the ski to max out it's holding capacity; but you don't have to go through an elaborate prepping to short-cut through those cycles; just wax more often and ski in-between until you feel the skis are holding the wax longer.  Then you can start waxing less frequently.


 

This is good info. I didn't even think that there was an optimum point for wax saturation - good to know. The ski shop I just called told me it would be $21 to adjust the bindings, and $7 for a hot wax. I might just go ahead and do it if it's only $7. Are they gonna strip the old wax down first or just go directly over it?

 

Also, I'm not worried about the edges. Even though I'm a noob I can tell that they're pretty sharp. How long does it usually take for them to lose some of their edge? How can you tell?

post #5 of 6

You needn't worry aout the edges. I was not saying to tune your skis.

 

Just a couple of simple steps that takes no special training to makes sure that any hanging burr from the factory side edge beveling is gone and any edge burr from shipping and be knoccked around in the shop or in your car is gone.

 

The last thing you want to do is get all excited to ski on your new boards and get to the mountain and find that they are grabby and/or unpredictable.

 

A very simple procedure to ensure a burr free ski.

 

Or when you take them to get the bindings checked and the waxed have the shop do it.

 

For optimmum performance on hard snow you should diamond stone your side edges (don't ever touch the base edge) only every 2 days of skiing hard snow (I do mine every day) but after 2 days of hard groomers is good.

 

 

Nothing I have posted in a response to you is even close to what you would do to a race ski.

 

This is very basic prep.

 

post #6 of 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip Cracker View Post



 


 

This is good info. I didn't even think that there was an optimum point for wax saturation - good to know. The ski shop I just called told me it would be $21 to adjust the bindings, and $7 for a hot wax. I might just go ahead and do it if it's only $7. Are they gonna strip the old wax down first or just go directly over it?

 

Also, I'm not worried about the edges. Even though I'm a noob I can tell that they're pretty sharp. How long does it usually take for them to lose some of their edge? How can you tell?

 

they're probably just going to just wax over what you got, but that's fine.  

 

Edges, it really depends on the conditions is how fast they wear, as well as how much loss of grip you can stand before wanting to get them sharpened.  

This year, 8days of skiing on tahoe's slim man-made icy conditions in december put as much wear on my ski as 25days last season which had plenty a lot of snow.

 

If you're concerned about when to take your skis in, you can ask around after and get some in-person advice, either from other people you meet on the mountain who seem to know what they're talking about or at the shop.  If a shop is honest they'll say your edges are fine when they are fine.

One possible measure is when you see the original factory grind pattern wear away (should be a faint diagonal pattern), or obscured from all your rock hits, then maybe it's time to consider sharpening your edges.   

 

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EpicSki › The Barking Bear Forums › On the Snow (Skiing Forums) › Tuning, Maintenance and Repairs › Any special prep needed for new all-mountain skis?