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Questions about SVST Final Cut base bevel guide

post #1 of 4
Thread Starter 

I have a question about base bevel guides such as SVST Final Cut (there's a picture and info at http://www.svst.com/categories3.aspx?Category=0f036d81-7847-495a-8842-45d2fb4fe3e2).

 

It says "With this tool the file stops cutting when the bevel is achieved, therefore beveling the base edge, and not the ski base."  How can this be?  The tool has no way of knowing how wide the metal edge is, so this statement can only be true for a particular width of edge, no?  If you keep filing until the file rests on the bar of the guide, it will have beveled a certain distance in from the side of the ski.  If the metal edge is narrower than that distance, you will have beveled part of the ptex base as well.  If the metal edge is wider, you won't have beveled the whole width of the edge.  (The base edges on my Fischer SG's are only about half as wide as those on my Atomic SX-10's.)  Or am I missing something?

 

And a practical question about using it: when you first start filing, assuming the base bevel is initially less than you are trying to achieve, should you 1) press the guide down so it's flat against the ski base, in which case the file resting on the ski edge won't touch the guide; or 2) clamp the file to the guide, in which case the base of the guide won't be flat against the ski base?

 

(Apologies if any of these questions are dumb, I'm a bit confused eek.gif )

 

OH...after reading this it occurs to me that maybe you don't have to actually have the plastic edge of the guide up against the side edge of the ski?  If you leave a gap there it seems like it would solve the problem?  Is that what you're supposed to do?


Edited by renenkel - 2/8/12 at 9:15pm
post #2 of 4

It is an excellent tool! I have 3, but don't kid yourself as you have stated you can easily overbevel your skis with any of the base edge bevelers including the Final Cut. I think the marketing department got a bit excited on this one.

 

I use the SVST Bevelmeter and so I measure as I bevel. It is psendy (About $260.00),  but I have found it extrememly useful!

 

As far as your 2nd question, I don't really follow. YOou don't clamp the file to the guide when base beveling. You simply lay the file across the edge with the tang or if tangless end of the file angled toward the tip and hold it with a thumb and forefinger on the non edge side

and you hold the file with your thumb and forefinger on (forefinger underneath thumb on top directly over the edge.


As shown here    http://www.svst.com/categories3.aspx?Category=0f036d81-7847-495a-8842-45d2fb4fe3e2

 

The tang is toward the tip in the photo You hold the file at the point it contacts the blue arm with your thumb and forefinger on the non-edge side of the tool

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by renenkel View Post

I have a question about base bevel guides such as SVST Final Cut (there's a picture and info at http://www.svst.com/categories3.aspx?Category=0f036d81-7847-495a-8842-45d2fb4fe3e2).

 

It says "With this tool the file stops cutting when the bevel is achieved, therefore beveling the base edge, and not the ski base."  How can this be?  The tool has no way of knowing how wide the metal edge is, so this statement can only be true for a particular width of edge, no?  If you keep filing until the file rests on the bar of the guide, it will have beveled a certain distance in from the side of the ski.  If the metal edge is narrower than that distance, you will have beveled part of the ptex base as well.  If the metal edge is wider, you won't have beveled the whole width of the edge.  Or am I missing something?

 

And a practical question about using it: when you first start filing, assuming the base bevel is initially less than you are trying to achieve, should you 1) press the guide down so it's flat against the ski base, in which case the file resting on the ski edge won't touch the guide; or 2) clamp the file to the guide, in which case the base of the guide won't be flat against the ski base?

 

(Apologies if any of these questions are dumb, I'm a bit confused eek.gif )



 

post #3 of 4
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomicman View Post

It is an excellent tool! I have 3, but don't kid yourself as you have stated you can easily overbevel your skis with any of the base edge bevelers including the Final Cut. I think the marketing department got a bit excited on this one.

 

I use the SVST Bevelmeter and so I measure as I bevel. It is psendy (About $260.00),  but I have found it extrememly useful!

 

As far as your 2nd question, I don't really follow. YOou don't clamp the file to the guide when base beveling. You simply lay the file across the edge with the tang or if tangless end of the file angled toward the tip and hold it with a thumb and forefinger on the non edge side

and you hold the file with your thumb and forefinger on (forefinger underneath thumb on top directly over the edge.


As shown here    http://www.svst.com/categories3.aspx?Category=0f036d81-7847-495a-8842-45d2fb4fe3e2

 

The tang is toward the tip in the photo You hold the file at the point it contacts the blue arm with your thumb and forefinger on the non-edge side of the tool

 

Thanks Atomicman for the validation on the possibility of over-beveling smile.gif

 

As for the 2nd question, I guess what I had in mind is, if you look at the picture at http://www.svst.com/categories3.aspx?Category=0f036d81-7847-495a-8842-45d2fb4fe3e2 , if the base is flat (no bevel) and you've just started filing, the tang end of the file would be resting on the base edge of the ski and there would be a little gap between the underside of the file and the guide.  So you could 1) keep it like that and file until you've rubbed off all the magic marker that you put on the edge to tell when you've filed enough....but then, if the tang end of the file still doesn't contact the guide, then you aren't getting the desired angle; or 2) slide the guide enough towards the tang end so that the guide isn't right up against the side edge of the ski, and so the underside of the file comes into contact with the guide.  Then, keeping the file in contact with the guide on both ends, put some sideways pressure on the file (towards the edge) while filing, until the bevel produced covers the whole edge.  That way, it seems you would get the correct bevel angle, since both ends of the file are in contact with the guide at all times.

Sorry for the verbal diarrhea....if I've still explained this poorly I can try to take some pictures to illustrate what I mean Beating_A_Dead_Horse_by_livius.gif

post #4 of 4

No the problem is that picture is screwed up. they have the file in backwards. I misspoke in my post. Didn't look close enough at the photo.

 

In that photo they are sharpening the edge on the side the tang is on. In reality the tang would be at the oppoiste end it is in the photo.

 

The foot of the tool rests on the base and the file rests on top of the foot and on a stainless bar past the edge you are sharpening and that creates the correct angle, so that the file contacts the edge which is in the way and between the stainless bars the file rests on gets filed to the preset angle.

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