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DIN settings for 2+ skier

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 

I recently got a new pair of boots, same size as the old ones but a different manufacturer and apparently a longer sole size (I had to tweak my bindings to make the new boots lock into the bindings). I decided to check my DIN settings as I have previously delegated figuring it out to the local shop and realized that both my skis are set to DIN setting 8. I am 5'10", 178lbs, sole length is 317mm, skier type 2-3 Bindings are 2004 Marker titanium 1200. If I go by Marker chart and say I'm level 2 my settings should be 7 (Level L, down one setting to level M). If I am level 3 then my DIN should be 8.5 (not quite sure I'm that aggressive though). So my questions is: should I leave my current DIN settings (set to 8) or change them to 7 according to chart? Also, I've come across discussions of 'forward pressure' - is that another thing to check and how exactly do I check this on my bindings? Thanks.

post #2 of 9

Binding setting is a personal choice.  I would leave them at 8, but that's me.

 

Forward pressure must be checked with the binding locked into the boot, and adjusted if needs be with no boot in the binding.  On most Markers (my Comp 16's for example) the forward pressure screw must be flush with the housing.  You can see this screw move in or out of the binding on the back of the heel housing as you clamp the binding down.

 

In order to provide the same torque on your knees with the longer boots, you would need to lower the DIN setting.


Edited by Ghost - 1/29/12 at 4:58pm
post #3 of 9

2 things: Your bindings are from 2004. I'm going to assume that you don't let off the tension during the summer months. In this case, the springs in your bindings have stretched. Now your DIN reads at 8, but releases at about 6-6.5. Also, your bindings are made by Marker, never known to be biased toward retention. If I were you, I would be turning them up to 10.

post #4 of 9

If you plan on following the chart, you need to make the choice:

 

Do you feel safer if your bindings are set lower for release reasons, or do you feel safer if your bindings were set for more retention?

 

If you would prefer release, choose type 2.  If you prefer retention, choose type 3.

 

In regards to that 8 setting.  Since 2004, the binding release tables have been revised somewhat.  Very few of the release values have changed.  They could had gone up or down in the slightest numerical unit.  What was an 8 could be a 7.5 or 8.5.  Plus your input for height, weight, age, skier type, and boot sole length could had changed which would make for a different value.  Do you remember what values were written on your work order back in 2004?

 

As for proper forward pressure, you want the edge of the screw flush with the back of the housing with the boot in the bindings.

 

If you are in doubt, take your gear to a certified repair shop.

 

Dennis

 

post #5 of 9
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by flatlandr View Post

2 things: Your bindings are from 2004. I'm going to assume that you don't let off the tension during the summer months. In this case, the springs in your bindings have stretched. Now your DIN reads at 8, but releases at about 6-6.5.


That is correct, I don't let off the tension during the summer month (is that something that I need to start doing or is it too late??). However I never noticed the bindings releasing very easily (although I usually keep my falls to the minimum)

 


Edited by andrePA - 1/29/12 at 6:24pm
post #6 of 9
Thread Starter 

IMAG0282.jpg

 

I just wanted to make sure I know which forward pressure screw we are talking about so I took a photo of the heel section of my binding (sorry, skis are already packed).  There are 2 screws on the back - one for the heel DIN adjustment(on the left) and the other that moves the heel section up/down the ski depending on the direction of the turn. Which of the 2 screws has to be flush with the housing? Thanks.

post #7 of 9
Thread Starter 

deleted


Edited by andrePA - 1/29/12 at 6:03pm
post #8 of 9

The one that does not change the DIN setting should be flush with the housing.  Remember to take you boot out before turning the screw.

post #9 of 9
Thread Starter 

Thanks all for guidance. Adjusted the screws so that they are flush with the boot locked in (they were not quite there) and will probably leave the DIN setting where it is now.

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