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Waxing Skis

post #1 of 15
Thread Starter 

When I run my wax iron along the base, the wax melts, but there are always small ridges left in the wax after it hardens. I can scrape it smooth, but I was under the impression that the trailing wax should be completetly smooth after the wax hardens. Am I doing something wrong?

post #2 of 15

Maybe using too much wax.

 

Really works well if you rub it on first . then melt a smaller amount on, iron it in,  then use Swix Fiberlene Pro pack sheets between your iron and the wax to absorb excess wax and leave a smooth even finihs. awith much less scraping. 1 sheet does 1 pair of skis You alternate ends of a sheet.

 

http://www.tognar.com/swix-fiberlene-hot-waxing-pro-paper-pack/

 

 

post #3 of 15
Your probably Going to fast. What temp is your iron? Could be too low.
post #4 of 15

I'd go for too fast, you almost never need anything higher than the manufacturer recommended heat for a given wax. It often does take multiple passes to get a good smooth melting with a good trail. Keep the iron moving but too fast. You should get a nice smooth layer with no ridges. If you still have ridges then your problem is too much wax. Remember it is only the wax that is right on the base that does any good, the rest is just extra scraping.

post #5 of 15

As long as the wax is covering the whole ski and the ski is somewhat warm so you know the wax is seeping in, I don't see what difference any ridges could actually MAKE.  It's going to get scraped off anyway, all you care is that the ski is covered with wax with no gaps.  Let the ski cool, then scrape and brush.  There will be no difference in the end product from the wax being smooth pre-cooling.  

post #6 of 15

the more wax left after ironing, the tougher the scraping job.  Whty make it more difficult. The Swix Pro Fiberlene sheets are the best $17.00 you'll spend.


1 box does 100 pair of skis

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by sibhusky View Post

As long as the wax is covering the whole ski and the ski is somewhat warm so you know the wax is seeping in, I don't see what difference any ridges could actually MAKE.  It's going to get scraped off anyway, all you care is that the ski is covered with wax with no gaps.  Let the ski cool, then scrape and brush.  There will be no difference in the end product from the wax being smooth pre-cooling.  



 

 

post #7 of 15

I'm not arguing with the Fiberlene, A-man, only the worry in and of itself, about ridges.

post #8 of 15
I do a single line down the middle, if I need more wax in an area I touch the wax bar to the iron. Don't need tons of wax since you scrape it off anyways.
post #9 of 15

How about when waiting for the iron to heat up rub your wax bar up and down the base. Then as the

iron heats up touch the wax bar to the bottom of the iron and crayon the wax evenly onto the base.

This saves lots of wax over dripping it.

post #10 of 15

I use the crayoning method with race wax (though I don't bother rubbing the wax while the iron is heating up). It saves wax and also does make scraping quicker and more tidy.

 

I just use the ordinary drip method with standard wax, though.

post #11 of 15


I got ya, but if you crayon wax first, drip as little as possible next as needed, iron it in,  then do a slow pass as your last pass with fiberlene sheet, (I think most people waste a ton of wax!) you will not have any ridges. I really believe the ridges are just from using too much wax.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by sibhusky View Post

I'm not arguing with the Fiberlene, A-man, only the worry in and of itself, about ridges.



 

post #12 of 15

Not to worry about any wax ridges,  they will flatten right out after a few hours in the hot box

 

You do hot box don't you! 

 

Actually,  I have my best waxing results when the warmth of the wax iron can be felt on the top sheet through the ski.  Then,  when the wax stays liquid for about 50mm from the moving iron,  all is good.

 

Scrape thin to win!

post #13 of 15

icon14.gif

icon14.gifbiggrin.gifQuote:
Originally Posted by Cgrandy View Post

Not to worry about any wax ridges,  they will flatten right out after a few hours in the hot box

 

You do hot box don't you! 

 

Actually,  I have my best waxing results when the warmth of the wax iron can be felt on the top sheet through the ski.  Then,  when the wax stays liquid for about 50mm from the moving iron,  all is good.

 

Scrape thin to win!



 

post #14 of 15

crayon just seemed to take too long on my skis with my wax, even with hot touching the iron.

 

I moved to a drip and hot smear technique, where i smear each drip as it comes off before it has a chance to harden up again.

 

This youtube video from slidewright had a lot of timesaving techniques

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22n4w0uferc&feature=plcp&context=C3a10a01UDOEgsToPDskILq3gethI-oO9Dyx3pP0R5

post #15 of 15

use a wire brush

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