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Question on Rotobrush - Page 2

post #31 of 43
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post

 


Like a lot of things tuning and waxing, there are multiple ways to achieve success relative to ones own needs and perspective. As long as people understand what they are trying to accomplish, finding their own way to get there can simply get down to personal preferences and experimentation over time.

 

Edit: Snowfan might be able recall how our skis compared in the glide department.

 

 



 

I don't recall how our skis compared. I do recall when you taught me how to Roto, that I started out spinning in the wrong direction and was corrected.  Been doing it right ever since. The brush working in the same direction as the snow travels along the base is intuitive and common sense.  I don't know if it actually makes any difference physically, but it sure does psychologically.

 

Terms like "moving away from you" and tips from a XC 'site added to me misunderstanding.

post #32 of 43

I also want to point out that Swix at some point in years past had a different shaft design than their existing hex design. I have 2 of the Swix old shafts that are- thin round shaft which will fit any drill and have the rounded red end that has a black grip band. It has a pin on the drill end that goes into the brush so the brush will turn.

 

Not sure if any other brand of brushes mentioned will fit this older Swix design, but I do not have a brass or any metal brush right now. 1 short horse hair, 1 stiffer white nylon, and a cork. A ski buddy of mine has the same older Swix shaft and a blue nylon brush with longer bristles.

post #33 of 43

For those using the Toko/Red Creek harder horsehair brush or similar, are you running it at low or high RPM?  I was thinking high, like the nylon brushes, but looking at the printed instructions it says 800 rpm.  Mine are narrow x-c skis, not that it should make a difference, and I use it for first brush after scraping on medium to cold waxes recreationally (racing I usually hand brush).  Thanks,


Edited by highstream - 2/29/12 at 11:29am
post #34 of 43

I use it at regular spped. To my recollection it is the combo Brass/Horsehair that has the 800 RPM speed limit.
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by highstream View Post

For those using the Toko/Red Creek harder horsehair brush or similar, are you running it at low or high RPM?  I was thinking high, like the nylon brushes, but looking at the printed instructions it says 800 rpm.  Mine are narrow x-c skis, not that it should make a difference, and I use it for first brush after scraping on medium to cold waxes recreationally (racing I usually hand brush).  Thanks,



 

post #35 of 43
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomicman View Post

I use it at regular spped. To my recollection it is the combo Brass/Horsehair that has the 800 RPM speed limit.
 


Lundqvist, the founder of Red Creek, told me back in 95(?) that the reason for the low rpm was that the brass bristtles could fly off at higher rpm and cause injury; hence the recommendation for eye protection. I never ran into that problem and I have  a large number of these brushes; Lundqvist used to be a Dominator dealer in Sweden back then and there was lots of product trading.   I have reverted to hand brushes for no particular reason (therapy, perhaps?) but whenever I have a lot to do I use them and they still look and work great.

 

post #36 of 43

All of my swix, toko and kuu brushes are hex's and interchangeable.  Not sure on the the Holmenkol, but it looks to be hex as well.

 

I always brush tail to tip, rotating towards the tail, and slow down the roto for final finishing pass, as well I finish with a  horsehair by hand.

 

 

many ways to skin a cat I guess.

post #37 of 43

If your KUU stuff is old, maybe things have changed at KUU because I asked this direct question to the sales rep at KUU in Canada and he took a few days to talk to their tech guys and then said their current line is not.  If your stuff is new, maybe they were mistaken, I don't know, but that is what they said.  The incentive for them was that I would buy their brushes if they fit & they said they don't fit, so I would think they got it right.

post #38 of 43


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chenzo View Post

I always brush tail to tip, rotating towards the tail, and slow down the roto for final finishing pass, as well I finish with a  horsehair by hand.

 

many ways to skin a cat I guess.



I don't know if there have been formal scientific studies on it, but wax techs have long claimed that scraping and brushing tip to tail, i.e., in the direction of travel, provides faster skis. That mainly applies to metal brushes, corking powders and finishing passes, with plastic in the middle, such as scrubbing back and forth, not mattering.

post #39 of 43

what I can say for sure is that I have a wall of brand new kuu, swix, and toko roto brushes in my shop that I sell, and that they all work with kuu, swix, toko and red creek handles.  

 

when I said "tail to tip" I was referring to roto brushing.  When hand brushing I always brush in one direction - tip to tail.  I also mark with a sharpie the direction of use on all my brushes including roto's.

 

and to be even more anal I scrape, crayon, fibertex and iron wax always from tip to tail.

 

sorry if i misunderstood your posts - or if my post was unclear.cool.gif

post #40 of 43


Quote:

Originally Posted by Chenzo View Post

when I said "tail to tip" I was referring to roto brushing.  When hand brushing I always brush in one direction - tip to tail.  I also mark with a sharpie the direction of use on all my brushes including roto's.

 

and to be even more anal I scrape, crayon, fibertex and iron wax always from tip to tail.

 

sorry if i misunderstood your posts - or if my post was unclear.cool.gif

 

I assumed you were talking about roto. What's your thinking in going tail to tip with rotobrushes, while going the opposite with the others? I only deal with x-c skis, but would have thought alpine would be the same.
 

 

post #41 of 43
Quote:

 

I assumed you were talking about roto. What's your thinking in going tail to tip with rotobrushes, while going the opposite with the others? I only deal with x-c skis, but would have thought alpine would be the same.
 

 

When I hand brush its tip to tail
When I roto - i finish with hand horsehair (few strokes)tip to tail to clean off wax dust.  Then blow off with air compressor.  This lets me skip fibrelene wipe.

 

My reasoning is speed of the preparation, I am in a shop environment and have a minimum of 5-10 race tune/reconditionings to do each day so I need to be quick, but maintain quality.

 



Quote:
Originally Posted by Doctor D View Post

If your KUU stuff is old, maybe things have changed at KUU because I asked this direct question to the sales rep at KUU in Canada and he took a few days to talk to their tech guys and then said their current line is not.  If your stuff is new, maybe they were mistaken, I don't know, but that is what they said.  The incentive for them was that I would buy their brushes if they fit & they said they don't fit, so I would think they got it right.

Ron Kuus usually drops by the store every weekend and I will mention this to him and try to get the bottom of it.
 

 

post #42 of 43
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chenzo View Post

what I can say for sure is that I have a wall of brand new kuu, swix, and toko roto brushes in my shop that I sell, and that they all work with kuu, swix, toko and red creek handles.  

 

when I said "tail to tip" I was referring to roto brushing.  When hand brushing I always brush in one direction - tip to tail.  I also mark with a sharpie the direction of use on all my brushes including roto's.

 

and to be even more anal I scrape, crayon, fibertex and iron wax always from tip to tail.

 

sorry if i misunderstood your posts - or if my post was unclear.cool.gif



me 2 on the always tip to tail EXCEPT pre- wax cleaning passes SOMETIMES tail to tip

post #43 of 43


Interesting.  Call Scott at KUU and tell him he has the wrong info.
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chenzo View Post

what I can say for sure is that I have a wall of brand new kuu, swix, and toko roto brushes in my shop that I sell, and that they all work with kuu, swix, toko and red creek handles.  

 

when I said "tail to tip" I was referring to roto brushing.  When hand brushing I always brush in one direction - tip to tail.  I also mark with a sharpie the direction of use on all my brushes including roto's.

 

and to be even more anal I scrape, crayon, fibertex and iron wax always from tip to tail.

 

sorry if i misunderstood your posts - or if my post was unclear.cool.gif



 

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