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After skiing question about bases and edges

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
well i went skiing yesterday.. warm during day chilly at night.. snow was pretty mushy during the day and icy at night.

well during skiing i noticed my skis start to slow down/drag during mid day but once the stuff froze they seemed smoother.. is this from my wax choice or just because the stuff was kinda mushY? it was like snowball snow... and today before i waxed them the edges of the bases were whitish and the middle of the bases were black with hints or wax still on the tips n tales.. is the white normal? i wasnt sure if it needed to be cleaned off.. the bases had a nick or two on them; not deep.. do i need to ptex or can i leave it for now??

also my edges were very clean but i heard people said i need to deburr them? so does that mean i wasnt carving much or using my edges much? because the edges seemed pretty good still.. i thought skiing on some of those ice chunks/balls might have damaged the base/edge but it didnt seem to do anything...

Thanks in advance
post #2 of 12
Well Smokey,
The good news is you are skiing on your edges and not running your skis flat. The whiteish edges are signs of "edge burn" or all the wax being stripped from the bases and actually friction burning the bases. The fact that you are having this affect and still have wax in the middles means you are running most of the time on your edges..

The bad news is you probably picked the wrong type of wax (usually too soft)... but it's not uncommon to select the wrong wax and if you were to be real picky about it you would have to re-wax your skis 2 or 3 times a day. (not worth it in my opinion unless you are racing)

My advice, Take a guess at your next day's skiing weather and rewax-scrape. Not necessarly to go faster but more to protect your bases..

The white stuff won't "clean off" as it is wear on the bases. Unless the damage is pretty deep, you can usually just wax over it. waxing and hot scraping a few times to draw out the dirt, then iron in a few coats of wax (allow to cool between coats) to make sure you get good penetration into the bases.

As far as the edges, deburring is more for when you hit rocks and put nicks or burr's in the edges. Skiing on ice will not usually do any damage to the edges except to dull them some. You can run a stone over the edges to polish/sharpen the edges. Unless the nicks in the bases are "raised" and not too deep, I would just leave them until you need other work done. If they are raised scrape them off with a metal scraper and then wax them.

<FONT COLOR="#800080" SIZE="1">[ March 17, 2002 09:11 PM: Message edited 1 time, by dchan ]</font>
post #3 of 12
Thread Starter 
thanks dchan.. do you go by the temp outside?? because i waxed with the -2/-8c purple swix wax in the combi ch12 pack and i dont think it was that cold during the day, warm enough for people to ski without jackets. i figured waxing a little on the cooler side would be safer than waxing too warm.

would it be possible that the wax didnt get deep enough in the base? i made 3 passes with the iron with a cool down between each pass.

thanks for the help dchan.. well at least i know i'm on my edges..
post #4 of 12
Smokey I usually go for colder temp wax as well. (based on air temp) Colder temp wax is usually harder so it should hold up better however it does not glide as well on wet snow. That's why the there are different formulations. As far as how long it lasts? That's more a matter of how much you ski, and how fast. A WC racer will put one or maybe 2 runs on a wax job and have them Waxed again for the next race.

Us mortals usually wax far less. I wax my skis every day and I still get the "base burn" or whitening of the base edges almost every day. If you are being diligent about keeping the bases waxed, I would not worry about a little bit of whitening on the edges. Sounds like you are on the right track.
post #5 of 12
If you are skiing mostly on man made snow base burn will occur faster than on natural snow. There a Swix product CH3 to be used alone the edges for this. To get rid of the oxidized or white area brass brush will probably do trick. Then use the CH3.
post #6 of 12
Smokey, you mentioned that the snow was mushy during the day. I would recommend you address the structure on your skis bases.

Do you remember the old days when skis had a center groove on the base? That was for displacing water and relieving water tension on ski bases. Now skis can have lots of tiny grooves on the bases that displace water. Those grooves come from stone grinders in ski repair shops. How the stone on a stone grinder is dressed determines the shape and courseness of those grooves.

Here's a general rule of thumb... warmer/wetter snow likes a courser base structure.
post #7 of 12
Another consideration would be the structuring. In wet spring-like conditions the structuring makes quite a difference to the glide. To structure for the spring I follow the tips given to me, use coarse grit sandpaper wrapped around some 2" pvc pipe, take a couple of passes tip to tail, then brass brush and brush and brush. Then wax and using nylon bristles, brush and brush and brush.
post #8 of 12
TAMSki, we were telepathically connected. Did you feel a little buzzz while typing?
post #9 of 12
I guess we're both in touch with the "Force". Just call me Luke! More seriously, its amazing what a difference the structure makes in spring snow.
post #10 of 12
Good points TAMSki and Pinhed.

I generally keep a pretty good structure on my skis so I tend to forget about that..
Since my goal is not speed every day, the generic structure from a good stone grind works great for me.
post #11 of 12
Thread Starter 
do i need to structure even though my skis are brand new? well this was the first time i took them out... do i structure with the brass brush first then wax, scrape then use the nylon brush right?
post #12 of 12
The structure that is on most new skis is pretty fine. The structure you put on with a brush while waxing does not really do much more than open up the fine structure already there. So if you want the best performance possible, Yes a base structure either put on by a stone grinder, sand paper or structure tool will help.
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