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Which Swix iron to choose for race waxes

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 

Hi guys,

 

I race in California (Mammoth) and the temps are never too cold. Mainly in teens most of the time when its cold. I am going to start waxing my own skis starting this season. I have got "everything" needed but have been hesitant as to which Swix iron to get. They range from 40 to 400 dollars! Can someone shed some light on what is really needed to put on some quality wax on the skis (HF, I am not sure if I will do the Cera Fs myself)?

 

Kaveh

post #2 of 7

To me, any ski waxing-specific iron will do, doesn't have to be Swix.  Toko and others have irons as well.  In fact, many on this forum would tell you to grab an old travel iron, but that's not me.  Ski wax specific irons generally have better temperature control.  My daughter, former racer has this one: http://www.race-werks.com/product.php?prod_num=84383100 and I have this one.  http://riverbrookbike.com/product/toko-wax-iron-wax-mouse-524.htm  (By the way, shop around as I can ASSURE you I didn't pay more than $50 for mine.)

 

post #3 of 7
Thread Starter 

thank you

post #4 of 7

I have this one  http://www.slidewright.com/swix-waxing-iron-800w_t76110.html?cat=71

We do 2 or 3 sets per week about 4 months per year and it is about 6 or 7 years old. It has been accurate and reliable.

post #5 of 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by vsirin View Post

I have this one  http://www.slidewright.com/swix-waxing-iron-800w_t76110.html?cat=71

We do 2 or 3 sets per week about 4 months per year and it is about 6 or 7 years old. It has been accurate and reliable.



Yup!  I have been using that one since 2000, excellent piece of kit.     After using various clothes irons for 25+ years before that.......

post #6 of 7

I used the basic Wintersteiger iron for a couple of years, and I was pretty happy with it, until I started using some higher melting point waxes.  I also started to crayon the wax, and iron through a fiberlene paper.  At that time, I found that the temperature fluctuations on the Wintersteiger are too wide.  Basically, I had to either crank it up high enough to work all the way through, but it was getting close to the point of messing up the P-Tex, or having to stop every couple of feet to reheat, because the iron would "freeze" to the ski.

 

So, since I'm a gear whore, I splurged on the digital Toko, and there's just no going back for me.

 

First, the temperature range is much tighter (probably less than 10 F), vs something like 20 F for the Wintersteiger.

 

Second, using the crayon+fiberlene method, I'm saving a huge amount of wax.  I'm easily using a 1/4 of the wax I used with the drip method, and that's a pretty accurate statement, not a WAG.  In the first year, I've saved about $30 to $40 on the wax.  I've used 250G of base wax the year before, and about 50G with the Toko.  Similar ratio caries over to the wax-of-the-day.

 

Third, the reduction in the amount of wax used, allowed me to start playing with some fluoro waxes which would be far too expensive with the drip method.

 

Is it truly cost effective?  Probably not, but it really is a joy to use.  I wouldn't hesitate to replace it, if I had to.  If it lasts 10 years or so, the cost becomes negligible.

 

Anyway, not saying that a $100+ iron is a necessity, it's a luxury, but we're in an expensive sport, and it's all about rationalizing the cost for yourself.

 

 

 

post #7 of 7

+1 On the TOKO Digital. That's what I use! Excellent!

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