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wax 'em

post #1 of 13
Thread Starter 
Our saying is- You can never wax enough!
Consider this... Do the ski vendors know where you are going to ski these when they make them? No. So how would they know what tempurature of wax to use before shipping them out? Sure they might use an all temp shop wax but that might be ify.

I have heard three stories- 1. there is no wax on new skis. 2. The wax on new skis is just for protection. 3. Yes there is but they put enough wax into a machine for 20 skis. If you ski was number one or two through the machine, you're good to go. If your ski was number 20 - not so hot, dude.

So which story is true? I dunno!!! Maybe some ski vendors do and some don't. Saving money I would say they don't.

www.lacyslatherworks.com hit Bob's ski page. Print my instructions on how to wax and tune skis. It goes step by step; what you need from the store, from home, etc. So important is temp setting on the iron. I have 249° in my article. It should be 289° but 249 is safer. Just don't go over 289° Bob
post #2 of 13
Thanks, Bob! Your link is very helpful. In terms of equipment to get, how necessary is it to have two brushes (brass and nylon), and two scrapers (plastic and metal)?
post #3 of 13
I don't use a metal scraper for wax removal...
I have to admit, I do not "get" why folks would.
If it is sharp you are likely to gouge the base.
Most people probably are not toolsmart enough to be
able to sharpen a cabinet scraper correctly. Good
thick plastic scrapers should do the job. If you are
using cold temp waxes, scrape off the bulk right after
the iron run, makes the final scrape much easier.
A soft (longer fiber) bronze brush and a shorter horsehair
are a good combo. Don't use a nylon much.
Lots of different approaches, as long as they run fast
and true!

[ February 11, 2004, 08:48 AM: Message edited by: John J ]
post #4 of 13
Thread Starter 
agree with John - If you use a metal scraper be very careful. Might use it to help with p tex nicks sticking up. I have one by Hertel. 99.99% of the time I use my plastic one and sharpen it up now and then.

Brass brush is nice to get a lot of wax and burrs out before cleaning. i.e. wax remover or warm temp wax and scrape right away to remove dirt. Brass brush is nice for removing hairs after sanding. If used at the end of wax and scrape I'd press a bit more jently or use the nylon brush. Horse hair is nice to help finish up but boy it is spendy for what it is. But then we're all young and rich.... right? [img]smile.gif[/img]

E-mail me for any other questions as well as here. If don't know I will say so. I never BS.

[ February 11, 2004, 03:12 PM: Message edited by: jyarddog ]
post #5 of 13
Thanks, Bob. On the brushes, they cost is pretty much the same regardless of material at artechski.com (smaller brushes are $9-10 each for brass, bronze, nylon or horsehair). So I'm just trying to figure out what the best thing to get is (i.e., which brush(es) do I need?). They even have one that is brass, with a row of horsehair on the edges, and another that has one half nylon and the other brass (on the same side of the brush).

Here's a link to the brushes I'm referring to:

http://www.artechski.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=A&Category_Code =09L

Based on your recent experience with a household iron (posted in another thread), would you recommend a waxing iron?
post #6 of 13
Thread Starter 
Get them all. [img]smile.gif[/img] Especially for that price. Get the 1/2 & 1/2 and the horse hair for finishing up.

A waxing iron has a smaller surface so less time is spent ona given area; less chance of over heating an area. House irons are ok. They are all flat, so the comment about a h ouse iron not following the camber of the ski I am really not i total agreement with. Whatever iron you use, just make sure to check the temp the first time you use it. Then make a mark at that point on the iron. I did finally buy a Toko wax mouse. There is no temp control. Plug it in and wait 10-15 mins. I checked it anyway and found it went right up to 300° and then settled down to 285°. That worried me so I wrote to Toko and Tognar both. They both said not to worry. Making my passes on skis or boards it wouldn't heat the base up past 289° at the speed of one's passes. My article says about the speed of a grazing cow... might go just a tad faster. I also say 249 when it shold be 289, but it's safer that way for people starting out. Wax irons are about $69-$99 whereas the Toko wax mouse is $20 or so. It's smaller, carry in a ski bag.

Dedicated wax irons tend to vary less in their heat control than house irons; yet I have seen peop0le and shops use house irons for years with no problems. I just got ahold of one which I did not check and paid for it dearly, violating my own rule!

But then ... we NEVER make mistakes do we? Yeah.... right! bwahahahahaha!
post #7 of 13
For your typical weekend warrior type of skier, a nylon brush alone is sufficient. Even that can be debated by those that like to brush and those who don't. If you have new skis or a fresh stone grind, odds are you have good structure to tha base of the skis. All you need is the nylon brush to help clean out the grooves in the structure.

If you have an older ski, don't believe in stone grinds, or simply don't have any structure to your base, the brass brush will help give you a bit of structure to break the friction. If you want to keep a bit more wax on the skis (ie. don't like to brush) a piece of Scotch-Brite pad will help to clean off extra wax and still leave enough on there to let you wear it off naturally.

If you start waxing your own skis, play around with giving a full hot wax, scrape, brush, etc compared to just a wax and scrape. I've found different conditions react better to different wax jobs. Just my $.02 from an old ski tech.
post #8 of 13
Thread Starter 
I agree with mtnrider- nylon brush shoiuld suffice. A riller bar works well to return structure to the base. fun - easy to use- fast- cheap. Works well.
post #9 of 13
I have recently been doing this:

Tune skis and other maintenance
Brush base with brass brush
Hot wax with CH8 and scrape with plexi right away
Brush with brass again if neccessary
Use rough fibertex
Use fine fibertex
Hot wax with CH7 and let cool
Scrape wax
Brush with combo nylon/few brass bristles
Brush with horsehair
Go over with fiberlene to polish

When you guys brush do you go both directions or just tip to tail? Does it matter what pass it is such as nylon is both ways to get out wax and horsehair is tip to tail for a finish?
post #10 of 13
Thanks again, everyone. I tried it out last night, and did it this way:

Hot wax, iron in several times, and scrape immediately after last pass.
Brush with nylon brush, tip to tail.
Hot wax, iron in several times, and wait 1/2 hour.
Scrape when cool.
Brush gently with nylon brush.
Wipe off flakes with paper towel.

We'll see how it works when I take them out this weekend!

(BTW, I ended up getting just a nylon brush, plastic scraper, SKS iron, and Dominator Zoom wax, all from artechski.com.)

Now, I know I'm supposed to go tip to tail, but is there any trick to scraping the wax at the very tip of the ski? It tends to build up where the base meets the thing that is on the tip of the ski (I don't know the technical term for that piece .
post #11 of 13
Originally posted by bostoneel:

We'll see how it works when I take them out this weekend!

Now, I know I'm supposed to go tip to tail, but is there any trick to scraping the wax at the very tip of the ski? It tends to build up where the base meets the thing that is on the tip of the ski (I don't know the technical term for that piece .
Where are you going to ski?

Don't wax to the very tip of the ski because as you have found out it is a bitch to scrape.

The tips don't usually make contact with the snow and are usually not in need of wax.

Try bending the scraper to get at the very tip and tail as sometimes they are slightly concave.
post #12 of 13
Boston, I scrape off the tip and tail before it cools.
Plus i'll use the short edge of the scraper.
post #13 of 13
I use the plastic scraper for wax, metal for ptex. I am also very happy with just using my swix combo brush not two seperate.
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