So for the dynastar 6th sense spin's, I think that I would get a fixed binding anyways... my foot isn't changing. What would be the con to getting a fixed binding? And also, I was leaning towards symmetrical. Are they very hard to ski downhill?
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7 feet tall. Looking for some twin tips, Need help!! - Page 3post #61 of 1039/8/11 at 11:00amThread Starterpost #62 of 1039/8/11 at 11:04amThread Starterpost #63 of 1039/8/11 at 3:23pmQuote:
Try the search function on the forums to see how passionate people are about mounting point.
For many years I didn't know the answer to that question. All my bindings were mounted on center. It was only when I got some railflex bindings in 2005 that I had the opportunity to try out some different mount points. The differences weren't major, but enough to find the 'sweet spot' wasn't always dead center. Your options are somewhat limited since your boot is so long, but by now you've found being so tall, life is full of compromises.
Symmetrical skis shouldn't be that hard to get down the hill. If they were, the manufacturers wouldn't sell many of them, eh?
post #64 of 1039/8/11 at 7:37pmpost #65 of 1039/8/11 at 7:49pmThread Starter
obviously the center binding skis have to be good for someone, but since im planning on skiing roughly 65% downhill 35% terrain park (as of now)... would i be better of getting a small lift on my binding and mounting some 4-12 DIN bindings on the dynastar 6th sense spins, 1 or 2 inches back from the center?post #66 of 1039/8/11 at 8:26pmQuote:Originally Posted by saeven
obviously the center binding skis have to be good for someone, but since im planning on skiing roughly 65% downhill 35% terrain park (as of now)... would i be better of getting a small lift on my binding and mounting some 4-12 DIN bindings on the dynastar 6th sense spins, 1 or 2 inches back from the center?
good for park. if your skiing 65% downhill, then deffinitly mount back. it would be stupid not to.post #67 of 1039/12/11 at 6:18amThread Starterpost #68 of 1039/12/11 at 7:17pm
Have you bought skis yet? I couldn't tell you how far back to mount 6th sense Distorters, but as a general rule maybe 0.5" to 1" back of manufacturer's centerline. Just my $0.02 worth...
Might be worth starting a new thread, maybe beat some current owners of those skis out of the bushes.post #69 of 1039/14/11 at 12:34pm
Also, a comment on your boots from earlier in the thread. I have somewhat bigger feet, 13's, and got a size 31 boot when I was "fitted" at a store about 8 years ago. Thought they fit fine, weren't the most comfortable but they're not supposed to be right? Wrong. I just recently went to Larry's boot fitting in Boulder and they told me they were 3 sizes too big. I thought there was no way they were off by that much. Got some 28's let them make a few adjustments and they fit great. I'd have a good shop check them out before you get your boots mounted to the skis.post #70 of 1039/15/11 at 9:50pm
There's Dynastar 6th Sense Distorters on ebay right now for $299...size 185 cm with Look PX12 Jib Wide Brake bindings Brand new, unmounted, free shipping.
I know because my awesome girlfriend just bought me a pair. The seller has multiple sets and they are already relisted.
I don't think you'll find a better tall guy twin tip park/all mountain set up than that.
Dimensions 119 / 87 / 109 - 185 cmpost #71 of 1039/16/11 at 2:51pmThread Starterpost #72 of 1039/16/11 at 2:57pmThread Starter
do you think if i got the 179 distorters they would be too small? I want to get the smallest skis possible that I will be able to balance on and "toss around." I am really liking the 6th sense distorters and they seem to have pretty good reviews for all mountain TTspost #73 of 1039/16/11 at 5:15pm
185 should be fine. I'm a big guy (6'2" 220) and always felt the same way as you but found out shorter isn't better despite what your gut feels like. Ski some longer ones and I'd be willing to bet you'll like them. The first ski I owned was a 183 and that was when I was when I was much smaller. I ended up going shorter after that and they performed worse. The pair I'm skiing this year are 192's. Shorter doesn't necessarily translate into more control. If you feel like you're going to cross your tips that just means you need to work on your skiing ability. Did you already say why you wanted to go so short?post #74 of 1039/16/11 at 6:52pm
I think the 179 would be too small. I have 179 Public Enemy's that I think are too small, in fact the only complaint I had last year about my Kneissl Fly Star (nearly the same dimensions as Distorter), was that at 183cm it was too short for me. I'd like to see more Park Skis in the mid 180's, and it seems the Distorter and the Volkl Wall are the only ones in the 185 range. And good luck finding a Volkl Wall for less than $450 without binding.
If you really truly are that adamant about getting a shorter one, then go ahead and get the 179. It's still a killer deal. But I'm 6'5" and I'll be skiing a 183 Fly Star, 185 Distorter, 188 Barhopper, 190 Boomerang and 191 Javelin GS.post #75 of 1039/16/11 at 6:53pmpost #76 of 1039/17/11 at 2:59pmThread Starterpost #77 of 1039/17/11 at 5:19pm
One side note about that ebay deal...those bindings come with the "wide" brake. That's designed for 100mm skis. The Dynastar is only 87 in the middle so if you use that brake it will hang over the edges a little. Looks for a shop that sells Dynastar/Look/Rossignol and see if they can find you a 80 or 90 mm brake for it. Should be about $25. At least that's what I find them online for. If they make the 90 get that...if 80 is the only option, I'd still do that over the 100 and stretch it out a little to fit around ski. (that's common practice...doesnt harm binding in anyway)post #78 of 1039/17/11 at 5:56pmThread Starterpost #79 of 1039/17/11 at 6:36pmpost #80 of 1039/17/11 at 8:31pm
Here is a link to a page that has them for $25. It only lists an 80 and 105mm which is weird...because I thought Look/Rossignol was 80/100/120
Yeah the brakes are interchangeable in the same bindings to fit different skis.
Anyway the 80 should work. The brake could cost up to $50 in stores.
You know what though. I would hold off on buying the brakes. Wait til you get the 100 and see how it looks sitting on the ski. If you think it hangs over too much get the smaller one. If it's not too bad, leave it. And talk to a shop tech for an opinion.post #81 of 1039/18/11 at 10:43amThread Starterpost #82 of 1039/18/11 at 10:49amThread Starterpost #83 of 1039/18/11 at 11:19ampost #84 of 1039/18/11 at 7:31pmThread Starterpost #85 of 1039/19/11 at 8:04am
I wouldn't do that. I think you have to remove the bindings do change the brake on those, which may weaken the mount on the ski. (i'm also not positive they have to be removed for this...my old Pivots did...not sure on the PX off the top of my head) Just wait til they show up and see what you think. In theory the brake won't be at the skinnies part of the ski. It's behind center so it could be more like 89-90 mm there. That leaves half a cm overhang. That's not too bad the more I think about it, so you may not need a brake at all.post #86 of 1039/19/11 at 12:56pmThread Starter
yeah that's my last big question. how far back from middleline should I put the bindings, i am thinking 1 inch back? I still want them to be close so that its balanced while grinding etc but I want them back for downhillpost #87 of 1039/19/11 at 3:40pm
Hmmm....that's a debate for the ages. I've never been a fan of center mounting because of how it hurts the skis performance while skiing, and I've never had a problem sliding a rail even with a traditional mount. I think the only time a center mount is really of a benefit on a rail is while spinning onto or off of it. If you're just sliding it then more traditional will work. For jumping I could see a center mount helping while landing backwards.
On my original K2 Public Enemy's, I mounted them 2 cm forward from a traditional mount (which is like 7.5cm back from center). On my Fujatives, I mounted them +4 (or -3.5), and my second gen Public Enemy's +5 (or -2.5). I think I like the +4 the best of all.
My Kneissl Fly Stars (most simlar to Distorter) are 2cm back from core center, and I think they are too far forward. I could probably go 2 more back to be happy.
My Hart BarHoppers (powder twin tip), are -6cm from center, and they feel generally good.
Looking at my girlfriends new Roxy Helter Skelters...which are a close relative to the Distorter...the scale goes from +5 to 0 to -5. The ski is 64 inches long and the +5 is at about 32. So the +5 mark is the actual center of the ski. So it has options all the way to - 10. I think when I get mine if they have the same scale, I will mount them at the 0 or -1 mark...which is 5-6 cm back from center....if they have the same scale as the Helter Skelter.post #88 of 1039/19/11 at 4:36pmThread Starter
Wow, you have successfully shown me that it is much much more confusing than just "5 cm from center" or "2 in from center"... every ski must have a different "true" center just to confuse me, I see!
So for my skis, which are 185 cm, and my boot size, 380 mm (38 cm), if 185/2 = 92.5 (<--- Engineering Major here :) ) was my 'true' center, should i put my bindings 6 cm back from true center? Or more?post #89 of 1039/19/11 at 5:22pm
Binding mounts are a whole new thread. Objectives in the park and freestyle skiing are different, and for the most part, ski manufacturers really do have recreational downhill skiing in mind when they mark the skis for mounting. Unless you are going to commit heavily to the park, I would just go with that. Also, the number of technicians that are acquainted with alternative binding mounting positions are really rare. Unless you really know what you want, or have a lot of confidence in our tech, I would leave this one alone.
- 7 feet tall. Looking for some twin tips, Need help!!
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