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Do 90mm bindings fit 95mm waist skis?

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 

Can you put bindings listed with 90mm brakes in 94-95mm waist ski without needing to bend or adjust them or do you have to get bindings with 100mm brakes?


I guess alternative if the bindings you want only have 90mm brake left in stock I could get them and then buy the separate wider brake to fit them??



post #2 of 8

If it were me, I'd probably get them and assume they'd fit with a small bend that I could do at home.  If I messed them up, I'd buy the 100mm breaks, but 4-5mm shouldn't be too hard for any but the brittlest brakes.

post #3 of 8

Yes absolutely get a 90 mm brake. Most come next with 110 and they will seem too wide and stick out. It depends on the brand however. They will bend very easily, just do it a small amount at a time.   Dave

post #4 of 8
Thread Starter 

Thanks - good to know - can do with 90.

I see a couple that say 100mm brake. Does this mean they are designed to fit 100mm waist ski and so the brake is actually wider than 100 - is that what you refer to Dave when you say next is about 110? Or are these breaks actually close to 100mm and would be a good fit?

Also - I am very light - about 140lb, I guess 150 in ski gear after a couple of beers :)
I am an advancing intermediate - but not super aggressive. Currently my DIN is at 6. I guess if I keep improving and get more adventuress/ ski more aggressively and put on a couple pounds over the next couple of years I might push it up a little.

Would I be really stupid to get bindings with a max DIN of 10 - even though I really don't see myself probably needing to go above about 8 in the next couple years??? I'm not keen on having to rely on them set to max. Should I be looking more at the Max range of 12 or so?

post #5 of 8

90mm brakes are designed to fit 90mm skis. 100mm brakes are designed to fit 100mm skis... and so on.


Most brakes can easily be tweaked out a few mm. if they rub. Often its only the plastic feet that catch a little and the ski edges will shave those off quickly enough.


If you do need to bend them, its often a good plan to put your boot in the binding, then get two pieces of pipe (e.g. bike seat post) and slip these over the legs. Then bend from each side.


For larger bends you may need to dismantle the brakes and use a vice, heat up the bends... all depends on the material. Tyrolias are tough cookies to bend. Pivot/Axial & FKS-style. are thin but brittle - you won't be happy if they break.


As far as DIN settings go, as long as your setting is in the binding range then you shouldn't sweat it too much. I like to be around the 2/3-3/4 mark on a binding e.g. 9 on a DIN12, but I'd happily ski at 9 on a DIN10 binding, all other factors being equal. However, higher DIN bindings often buy you better safety features and/or materials at the same time (more metal, more directions of release, better retention to avoid unnecessary release). Most DIN10 binding have simpler features than DIN12 ones. For that reason a DIN12 binding is possibly a better choice (or even 14/15 depending on the model/brand).

post #6 of 8

What Squawker said, except that I tend to shoot for the 1/2 to 2/3 range on the binding.


And yes, you can buy a replacement brake.


More info on all these questions on the Canonical Wide Brake Information Thread at TGR.

post #7 of 8

A binding with a max din of 12 will suit you perfectly. The width of the brakes available depends upon the make. 90 would work fine with a little tweaking, the place that mounts them should take care of that for you.Most of them do not just come in increments of 10 however,that's all.  There are usually only a couple of choices for brake width.    Dave

post #8 of 8

You can also trim the inside of the plastic tips on brakes to avoid catching on the ski.  Worked fine for me when I moved a set of Markers from a 72mm ski to a pair of 81mm Dynastar L8ks. 

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