Hi , I'm new here and just want to say thanks to everyone for all of the very great info I have read here.I have been skiing for a number of years and would like to step up my game in the maintenance dept.Last year I had some unproductive results with some tunes I received at local shops.It could just have been the skis, or snow, or me/combo of all said but I feel like I need a more hands on approach. After researching different methods I THINK I have come up with a pretty decent plan. Please excuse the detail,I'm a bit of a perfectionist. Here we go: First off I have a pair of brand new twin tip skis-Icelantic Pilgrims W/ sintered base. I plan on crayoning some Renew Zoom non grafite on base and then dripping decent amount on.Run iron over 2-3 times and then hot scrape. Repeat 1-2 more times letting cool to touch in between. After that I will drip another layer, iron 2-3 times,let cool. Iron 2-3 more times,let cool. Drip a heavy layer on, Iron 1-2 times and then leave on for summer storage. I will take them out every couple of months and re-drip Renew Zoom,iron 2-3 times and leave on to saturate base/protect until winter use when I will brush with brass brush? and then drip Super Hotsauce on,Iron 2-3 times let cool and then scrape and brush w/stiff nylon multi- purp brush repeating 2-3 times, Finally I will ski, spraying liquid Hotsauce on in between hot waxes. Hows that sound? I have no tuning exp. so how did I do.Have not decided what to do about edging as they have a 2 deg. side 1deg base edge. I did buy a gummy stone for any rust or edge clean up. Oh yeah, I bought all tuning supps from Racewax.com. The Renew Zoom I got from them though. I also bought a role of waxing paper to use when I use the Hotsauce,forgot to put that in.
Second OP on my waxing procedure
- 919 Posts. Joined 8/2009
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You will need to scrape and brush between applications of the wax. It is actually the brushing that "breaks in" the structure to get rid of the sharp edges in the grind to give you better glide. Just putting more wax on top of the old wax is not going to do anything as far as I know. Also, I am not sure of the purpose of waxing, letting it cool and reironing. One of the keys is to get your wax to the right temperature. I have used the Renew Zoom and it has a pretty low melting temperature. You want the wax to stay liquid for about a half foot after the iron has passed an area. You also want to make sure you scrape the edges after each application - rust can develop over the summer on the edges if there is wax on them (just run the edge of a plastic scrapper quickly along the base bevel and the side bevel, the wax can still be soft). I might recommend that, if you are going to do multiple applications of wax during the summer, you might want to use different waxes for the different cycles. The theory is that, since you will be using different temperatures and waxes, you will get different (and more) saturation of the base material than you would with just one type of wax. You might also want to include some moly wax in the process.
I like everything about Renew Zoom except its color which is a little toned toward grey. For regular, in season, hot scaping, I have trouble telling when the scrapes are really clean. My personal favorite hot scrape wax is SBC from Race werks.
There is some good instructional material on Doctor D's web site as well as on Holmenkol's.
First off I found a lot of the info on this site in the archives under base prep. It seemed like the wax, let it sit and then reheat multiple times was to ensure total absorption into the base of a brand new ski. I don't know. It sounded thorough at the time.To respond to vsirin, Why will rust occur if the edges are not scrapped? I contacted Dominator who makes Renew Zoom and the rep said to leave it on the base and edges for the summer. He also said that when I take them out in the fall/winter it would look like all the wax was gone ala it had been all absorbed into the base.I mentioned re waxing periodically over summer to keep wet and he said a lot do.Different strokes for folks or what? Renew Zoom has super soft and super hard properties witch I thought was to cover both extremes. All that was left was to use an in between all cond wax right before skiing.
First, your bases are not "wet" I assure you.
Second the guy who sells you wax, is probably not the guy to ask "Should I use your product often?"
While your approach wont hurt, it wont do anything positive either. Wax on top of wax...does zip.
Second, I have seen lots of skis that have been just left...no wax ever. We are talking skis that are over 20 years old. The bases are fine...wax em up and you are good to go. If bases "dried" out they would crack etc....this doesnt happen.
Wax a few times for brand new skis to start sure, I know some do that...wax, scrape, wax, scrape, then wax...put a little extra on, cover the edges etc....and put them away for summer. Fall comes, pull em out and scrap, maybe wax and scrape....then go ski. But that is if you are really fussy, and competing at high levels and looking to eek out that final 0.1% of speed.
For 99% of people you should just wax heavy, cover edges and store for summer. Scrape next fall and go ski....then just wax per normal after that.
Yeah, maybe I'm reading into the whole new skis need XYZ base prep ect ect. Just trying to get the best coat to hold wax longer and protect better when the 8 hr sessions start back up again. I'm a bit of a belt and suspenders type when it comes to diy. I can get a bit overly cautious when I first start to research new procedures. But I want It done RIGHT the first time. If that means overboard oh well,overkill should be my middle name.
- 5,831 Posts. Joined 3/2006
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LOL sorry no offense but I just had to laugh at this most tedious mega overkill procedure. Not even world-cup racers' skis get that kind of treatment.
If you really are super gung-ho about getting your skis as waxed as they can be, do what many of us have done and build yourself (or buy if you are the spendy type) a hot box. One session is equivalent to 10-40 wax jobs and it does its job while you sleep or get to enjoy life...this is they way to do it right with little waste and most efficacy.
- 3,060 Posts. Joined 8/2008
- Location: Milford, NH
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...and my friends think I wax obsessively...
There is no set rule. If it feels good (or at least delivers the results you want), do it. Dominator has lots of good info at their site. So do SlideWright and Racewax; both active members here and have great how to tips and videos.
Here's my routine using Dominator Zoom Graphite Renew, Graphite Zoom & Race Zoom that works great and uses much less wax and time:
Hot wax/scrape with Renew to clean. If you think they're really dirty, do it again but once is usually enough.
For storage -
Hot wax on a heavy coat of Renew and walk away; come back in the fall.
For start of new season -
Hot cycle Graphite Zoom 4-5 times without scraping/brushing in between. Hot cycle is iron it in, wait a few hours at least (could be days), then drip a LITTLE more on in the remaining hot cycles. I always crayon a coat on before dripping any on. Some will argue that the bases need the scraping and brushing in between (for micro hairs), but unless you have money on your run, it isn't needed and you won't notice the difference. The point of the hot cycling is to saturate the bases with wax. Once saturated, no more will fit. It will achieve the same or at least close to the same as hot boxing without having to worry about over heating anything else on your skis (i.e. epoxies). You can also over heat your skis with an iron and cause de-lamination. Some swear by hot boxing and are good at it. I get my skis in condition to go faster than I can ski with my process.
Dominator lists cooling times at their site. I think for Renew Zoom it's 3 hours. I don't think their site is very intuitive (at least for me) but if you click on everything, you'll eventually get all the info you need.
Scrape until no more wax comes up and then brush. I use roto brushes - brass, nylon then horse hair. I use the roto brush because I have 4 (soon to be 5 ) skis I use throughout the season, my youngest's race skis, wife's skis, and to older kids snowboards. Of course there is the assortment of friends gear I take care of too.
Rest of the season -
From here on out, I only need to rub Graphite Zoom in and use the waxwhizard for a touch up. If the skis are being used a lot, I'll hot cycle another coat in.
Race Skis (beer league and NASTAR) -
The same treatment but I hot wax Race Zoom in before the race. According to Dominator's site, you'll get more glide out of hot waxing than rubbing, but rubbing is almost always sufficient. I do this to my race skis so I have nothing to blame but technique.
The new season process should also be done after a base grind.
It works for me. My skis almost always have a fresh coat of wax and a touched up edges.
After you do it a while, you know whether or not you need to do it again or at least when to stop. Remember, most of the folks on the hill only get their skis tuned once a year; if that. Skis are way more resilient than we give them credit for. Very rarely will a high end racer tell you it was the wax that held them back. Granted, they almost always have fresh wax, but they also know that there is more opportunities to be gained in technique and tactics than wax.